At the time of the mutiny of the Nubian troops, a few not in hospital or on

their way to Khartoum or Massowah, fought well; two even paid with their

lives their gallant attempt at a sortie, and they had gained for themselves, by

their bravery in those difficult times, the respect they had lost during the

long days of inaction.

De Bisson was instrumental in spreading the most fallacious reports as to

the condition of the captives held by Theodore, and even when an army was

already marching to their rescue, "correct" accounts appeared of the repulse

of the British by Theodore; at another time a mendacious report was spread

that a great battle had been fought in Tigré between Theodore and a

powerful rebel—a battle which was said to have lasted three days without

any marked success having been gained by either side; and that Theodore,

having perceived in the enemy's camp some Europeans, had sent orders for

our immediate execution; the fulfilment of the sentence resting with the

Empress, who was residing at Gondar, and that his (De Bisson's) agent was

using his influence to stay the execution. Absurd and ridiculous as were

these reports, they were not the less productive of great distress to the

families and friends of the captives.

During the five days we spent at Kassala, I am happy to say that I was able

to relieve many sufferers; amongst them our host himself, and one of his

guests, a young, well-educated Egyptian officer, laid at death's door by a

severe attack of dysentery.

A Nubian colonel called on us one morning; he strongly advised us to stop

before it was too late. He had heard much about Theodore's doings, and

assured us that we would meet but with deceit and treachery at his hands.

On our telling him that we were officers and bound to obey, he said, nothing

more, but bid us good-by in a sorrowful voice.

CHAPTER VI.

Departure from Kassala—Sheik Abu Sin—Rumours of Theodore's

Defeat by Tisso Gobazé—Arrival at Metemma—Weekly Market

—The Takruries at Drill—Their Foray into Abyssinia—Arrival

of Letters from Theodore.

On the afternoon of the 10th November we started for Kedaref. Our route

now lay in a more southerly direction. On the 13th we crossed the Atbara, a

tributary of the Nile, bringing to the father of rivers the waters of Northern

Abyssinia. On the 17th we entered Sheik Abu Sin, the capital of the

province of Kedaref. [Footnote: From Kassala to Kedaref is about 120

miles.] Our cameleers belonged to the Shukrie-Arabs. They are a semipastoral, semi-agricultural tribe, and reside principally in the

neighbourhood of and along the course of the Atbara, or wander over the

immense plains that extend almost without limit from this river to the Nile.

They are more degenerated than the Beni-Amers, having mixed more with

the Nubian and other tribes that dwell around them. They speak an impure

Arabic. Many have retained the features and general appearance of the

original race, whilst others might be looked upon as half-castes, and some

can with difficulty be distinguished from the Nubians or Takruries.

From Kassala to Kedaref we crossed interminable plains, covered with high

grass, speckled here and there with woods of mimosas, too scanty to afford

the slightest shade or protection during the fearful heat of the mid-day sun.

Here and there on the horizon appeared a few isolated peaks; the Djbel

Kassala, a few miles south of the capital of Takka. Eastward, the Ela Hugel

and the Abo-Gamel were in sight for many days, whilst towards the west,

lost almost in the misty horizon, appeared in succession the outlines of

Derkeda and Kassamot.

The valley of the Atbara, luxuriant in vegetation, inhabited by all varieties

of the feathered tribe, visited by the huge thirsty quadruped of the savannah,

presented a spectacle so grand in its savage beauty that we could with

difficulty tear ourselves from its shady groves; had it not been that

"Forward" was our watchword, we would, braving malaria, have spent a

few days near its green and fragrant banks.

Sheik Abu Sin is a large village; the houses are circular and built of wood

and covered with straw; A small hut belonging to the firm of Paniotti, our

host of Kassala, was placed at our disposal. We shortly afterwards received

the visit of a Greek merchant, who came to consult me for a stiff joint

brought on by a gun-shot wound. It appears, that some years before, whilst

riding a camel on an elephant-hunting expedition, the gun, a large halfounce bore, went off by itself, he never knew how. All the bones of the

fore-arm had been smashed, the cicatrice of a dreadful flesh-wound showed

what sufferings he had undergone, and it was indeed a wonder for me that,

residing as he did in such a hot unhealthy climate, deprived of all medical

advice, he had not succumbed to the effects of the wound, still more that he

had been able to save the limb. I considered the cure so extraordinary, that,

as there was nothing to be done, I advised him to leave well alone.

The governor also called upon us, and we returned his civility. Whilst

sipping our coffee with him and other grandees of the place, we were told

that Tisso Gobazé, one of the rebels, had beaten Theodore and made him a

prisoner. He said he believed the news to be correct, but advised us to

inquire into it on our arrival at Metemma, and should we find it untrue, to

return on our steps and on no account to enter Abyssinia if Theodore was

still the ruler. He then gave us some examples of the Emperor's cruelty and

treachery; but we did not put much credence in his word, as we knew that

of old a bad feeling existed between the Abyssinian Christians and their

Mussulman neighbours of the plain. At Metemma that rumour was not even

known; however, we had no choice, and never thought one instant of

anything else but of accomplishing the mission intrusted to us, in face of all

perils and dangers.

At Kedaref we were lucky enough to arrive on a market-day, consequently

had no difficulty in exchanging camels. That very evening we were en route

again, still towards the south, but this time making almost an angle with our

former route, marching towards the rising sun.

Between Sabderat and Kassala, between that town and the Gash, we had for

the first time seen some cultivation; but it was nothing compared to the

immense vista of cultivated fields, beginning a day's journey from Sheik

Abu Sin, and extending, almost without interruption, throughout the

provinces of Kedaref and Galabat. Villages appeared in all directions,

crowning every rounded hillock. As we advanced, these eminences

increased in size until they gave place to hills and mountains, which

ultimately blend with the uninterrupted chain of high peaks forming the

Abyssinian table-land, now again, after so many days, rising before us.

We arrived at Metemma on the afternoon of the 21st of November. In the

absence of Sheik Jumma, the potentate of these regions, we were received

by his alter ego , who put one of the Imperial residences —a wretched barn

—at the disposal of the "great men from England." If we deduct the seven

days we were obliged to halt en route , on account of the difficulty we had

in obtaining camels, we performed the whole journey between Massowah

and Metemma, a distance of about 440 miles, in thirty days. Our journey on

the whole was extremely dreary and fatiguing. Apart from a few pretty

spots, such as from Ain to Haboob, the valleys of the Anseba and Atbara,

and from Kedaref to Galabat, we crossed only endless savannahs, saw not a

human being, not a hut, only now and then a few antelopes, or the tracks of

elephants, and heard no sound but the roar of wild beasts. Twice our

caravan was attacked by lions; unfortunately we did not see them, as we

were on both occasions riding ahead, but every night we heard their awful

roar, echoing like distant thunder in the still nights of those silent prairies.

The heat of the day was at times really painful. In order that the camels

might start in time, our tents were packed early; sometimes we would sit for

hours waiting the good pleasure of the cameleers under the scanty shade of

a mimosa, vainly endeavouring to find in its dwarfed foliage a relief from

the burning rays of the sun. Night after night, be it moonlight or starlight,

on we went; the task was before us, and duty urged us on to reach the land

where our countrymen were lingering in chains. Often in the saddle

between three and, four P.M., we have jogged along on our wearied mules

until the morning star had disappeared before the first rays of day. For

several days we had no water but the hot and filthy fluid we carried in

leathern skins; and even this nauseous decoction was so scanty and

precious, that we could not afford to soothe the sun-burnt skin and refresh

the exhausted frame by a timely ablution.

Notwithstanding the discomfort, inconveniences, nay, danger of crossing

the Soudan in that unhealthy season of the year, by care and attention we

reached Metemma without having had a single death to lament. Several of

the followers and native servants, even Mr. Rassam, suffered more or less

from fever. They all eventually recovered, and when a few weeks later we

started for Abyssinia, the whole party was in better health than when we left

the hot and sultry shores of the Red Sea.

Metemma, the capital of Galabat, a province situated on the western frontier

of Abyssinia, is built in a large valley, about four miles from the Atbara. A

small rivulet runs at the foot of the village, and separates Galabat from

Abyssinia. On the Abyssinian side there is a small village, inhabited by the

few Abyssinian traders who reside there during the winter months; at which

period a large traffic is carried on with the interior. The round, conical hut is

here again the abode of all classes the size and better state of repair being

the only visible difference between the dwelling of the rich and that of his

less fortunate neighbour. Sheik Jumma's palaces are inferior to many of his

subjects' huts, probably to dispel the credited suspicion that he is rich, and

that incalculable treasures are buried under the ground. The huts put at our

disposal were, as I have already stated, his property; they are situated on

one of the small hills that overlook the town; the Sheik removes there with

his family during the rainy season, as it is in some degree less unhealthy

than the swampy ground below.

Though following the creed of the Medina prophet, the capital of

Galabat cannot boast of a single mosque.

The inhabitants of Galabat are Takruries, a negro race from Darfur. They

number about 10,000; of these 2,000 reside in the capital, the remainder in

the many villages that arise in all directions amidst cultivated fields and

green meadows. The whole province is well adapted for agricultural

purposes. Small rounded hillocks, separated by sloping valleys watered by

many rivulets, impart a pleasing aspect to the whole district; and if it was

not for the extreme unhealthiness of the place, it is possible to understand

the selection made by the Darfur pilgrims: though it is no compliment paid

to their own native land. The pious Darfur Mussulmans, on their way to

Mecca, observed this favoured spot, and fancied it realized, minus the

houris, some of the inferior Paradises of Mohammed. At last some

remained; Metemma was built; other pilgrims followed the example; and

soon, though a lazy and indolent race, owing to the extreme fertility of the

soil, they formed a prosperous colony.

At the outset they acknowledged the Sultan of Darfur, paid him tribute, and

were governed by one of his officers. But the Galabat colony soon found

out that the Egyptians and Abyssinians were more to be feared than their

distant sovereign, who could neither protect nor injure them; accordingly,

they quietly murdered the viceroy from Darfur, and elected a Sheik from

amongst themselves. The ruler at once made terms with both Egyptians and

Abyssinians, and tendered yearly tribute to both. This wise but servile

policy met with the best results; the colony increased and prospered, trade

flourished, Abyssinians and Egyptians flocked to the well-supplied market,

and the tribute of a few thousand dollars to each party fell lightly on the

now rich and cunning negroes.

From November to May, on Mondays and Tuesdays, the market is held on a

large open space in the centre of the village. Abyssinians bring horses,

mules, cattle, and honey; the Egyptian merchant displays in his stall, calico,

shirtings, hardware, and gaudy prints. Arabs and Takruries arrive with

camels laden with cotton and grain. The market-place is now a crowded and

exciting scene: horses are tried by half-naked jockeys, who, with whip and

heel, drive at a furious pace their diminutive steeds, reckless as to the limbs

and lives of the venturous spectators.

Here cotton is being loaded on donkeys, and will soon find its way to

Tschelga and Gondar; here some fat Nubian girls, redolent with rancid

castor-oil flowing from their woolly heads down their necks and shoulders,

issue grinning from a Frank's store, holding in their hands red and yellow

kerchiefs, the long-desired object of their dreams. The whole scene is

lively; good-humour prevails; and though the noise is fearful, the

bargaining being long and clamorous, and every one is armed with lance or

club, still, all is peaceful: no blood is ever shed on these occasions but that

of a few cows, killed for the many visitors from the high country who enjoy

their raw beefsteak under the cool shadow of the willows that border the

stream.

On Friday the scene changes. On that day the whole community is seized

with martial ardour. Having no mosque, the Takruries devote their holy day

to ceremonies more suited to their taste, and resort to the market-place, now

transformed into a parade-ground, a few to drill, the greater number to

admire. Some Takruries, having served for a time in the Egyptian army,

returned to their adopted land full of the value of disciplined troops, and of

the superiority of muskets over lances and sticks. They prevailed on their

countrymen to form a regiment on the model of "master's," Old muskets

were purchased, and Sheik Jumma had the glory to see during his reign the

1st, or Jumma's Own, rise to existence. A more ludicrous sight could not, I

believe, be witnessed. About a hundred flat-nosed, woolly, grinning negroes

march around the parade-ground in Indian file, out of step, for about ten

minutes. Line is then formed, but not being as yet well up to the proper

value of the words of command, half face on one side, half on the other.

Still the crowd admires; white teeth are displayed from ear to ear. The

yellow-eyed monsters now feel confident that with such support nothing is

impossible, and no sooner is "stand at ease" proclaimed, than the spectators

rush, forward to admire more closely, and to congratulate, the future heroes

of Metemma.

Sheik Jumma is an ugly specimen of an ugly race: he is about sixty years of

age, tall and lank, with a wrinkled face, very black, having a few grey

patches on the chin, and the owner of a nose so flat that it requires time to

see that he has one at all; He is generally drunk, and spends the greater part

of the year carrying the tribute either to the Abyssinian Lion, or to his other

master the Pasha of Khartoum. A few days after our arrival at Metemma he

returned from Abyssinia, and politely paid us a visit, accompanied by a

motley and howling train of followers. We returned his call; but he had got

drunk in the interval, and was at least uncivil, if not positively rude.

During our stay we had occasion to witness the great yearly, festival of the

re-election of the Sheik. Early in the morning a crowd of Takruries came

pouring in from all directions, armed with sticks or spears, a few mounted,

the majority on foot, all howling and screeching (I believe they call it

singing), so that before even the dust raised by a new party could be seen,

the ear was deafened by their clamour. Every Takrurie warrior—that is,

every one who can howl and carry a bludgeon or lance—is entitled to a

vote; for this privilege he pays a dollar. The polling consists in counting the

money, and the amount decides the ruler's fate. The re-elected Sheik (such

was the result of the election we witnessed) killed cows, supplied jowaree

loaves, and, above all, immense jars of merissa (a kind of sour toast-andwater, intoxicating for all that), and feasted for two days the whole body of

the electors. It is difficult to say which of the two is out of pocket, the

elector or the Sheik. There is no doubt that every Takrurie will eat and drink

to the full amount of his dollar; is content with paying his homage, and

wishes to have the worth of his money. Bribery is unknown! The drums, the

sign of royalty, have been silent for three days (during the interregnum), but

the cows are no sooner slaughtered and the merissa handed round by black

maidens or fair Galla slaves, than their monotonous beat is again heard;

soon to be drowned under the howling chorus of two thousand intoxicated

negroes.

The following morning the whole assembled "by orders" on a place some

distance from the town. Arranged in a large crescent, Sheik Jamma

addressed his warriors in these words: "We are a strong and mighty people,

unequalled in horsemanship and in the use of the club and the spear!"

Moreover, (said he), they had increased their power by adopting the system

of fire-arms, the real strength of the Turks. He was all-confident that the

very sight of their gunmen would strike terror into every neighbouring tribe.

He ended by proposing a raid into Abyssinia, and said: "We will take cows,

slaves, horses, and mules, and please our master the great Theodore by

plundering his enemy Tisso Gobazé!" A wild feu-de-joie , and a terrible

roar, from the excited crowd, informed the old Sheik that his proposal was

accepted. That very same afternoon they started on their expedition, and

probably surprised some peaceful district, as they returned after a few days,

driving before them several thousand heads of cattle.

Metemma, from May to November, is very unhealthy. The principal

diseases are continued, remittent, and intermittent fevers, diarrhoea, and

dysentery. The Takruries are a tough race, and resist well the noxious

influences of the climate; but not so the Abyssinian, or the white man: the

first is almost certain to die should he attempt to spend the dreaded months

in the malarious low country, the second most probably will suffer much in

health, but resist for a season or two. During our stay, I had many demands

for medicine. Large, cake-like spleens were greatly reduced by local

applications of tincture of iodine, and the internal administration of small

doses of quinine and iodine of potassium. Chronic diarrhoea yielded readily

to a few doses of castor oil, followed by opium and tannic acid. Acute and

chronic dysentery was treated by ipecacuanha, followed by astringents. One

of my patients was the son and heir of the Sheik. He had been suffering for

the last two years from chronic dysentery; and although under my care he

entirely recovered, his ungrateful father never even thanked me for all my

trouble. Simple ophthalmia, skin diseases, and glandular swellings were

also common.

The Takruries have no knowledge whatever of medicine: charms are here,

as throughout the Soudan, the great remedy. They are also used as

preventatives to keep off the evil eye, bad spirits, and genii of different

sorts; for these reasons almost every individual— nay, cattle, mules, and

horses, are covered with amulets of all shapes and sizes.

The day after our arrival at Metemma we despatched two messengers with a

letter to the Emperor Theodore, to inform him that we had reached

Metemma, the place he had himself fixed upon, and were only waiting for

his permission to proceed to his presence. We feared that the fickle despot

might change his mind, and leave us for an unlimited period in the

unhealthy Galabat. More than a month had elapsed, and we were giving

way to despair, when, to our great joy, on the 25th of December (1865), the

messengers we had despatched on our arrival, also those sent from

Massowah at the time of our departure, returned, bringing for us civil and

courteous answers from his Majesty. Sheik Jumma was also ordered by his

Abyssinian master to treat us well, and to provide us with camels up to

Wochnee. At that village, Theodore informed us, we should be met by an

escort and by some of his officers, by whom arrangements would be made

to convey our luggage to the imperial camp.

CHAPTER VII.

Entrance into Abyssinia—Altercation between Takruries and

Abyssinians at Wochnee—Our Escort and Bearers—Applications

for Medicine—First Reception by his Majesty—The Queen's Letter

Translated, and Presents Delivered—Accompany his Majesty through

Metcha—His Conversation en route .

Heartily sick of Metemma, and longing to climb the high range so long a

forbidden barrier to our hopes and wishes, we soon made our preparations,

but were delayed a few days on account of the camels. Sheik Jumma,

probably proud of his late achievements seemed to take his orders pretty

coolly, and, had we not been more anxious ourselves to penetrate into the

tiger's den than the Sheik to comply with the King's request, we should no

doubt have remained many a day longer at the court of that negro potentate.

By dint of courteous messages; promises, and threats, the required number

of camels was at last forthcoming, so that on the afternoon of the 28th

December, 1865, we passed the Ethiopian Rubicon, and halted for the night

on Abyssinian ground. On the morning of the 30th we arrived at Wochnee,

and pitched our tents under some sycamores at a short distance from the

village. This, our first stage in Abyssinia, led us through woods of mimosas,

acacias, and incense-trees; the undulating ground, waving like the ocean

after a storm, was covered with high and still green grass. As we advanced,

the ground became more irregular and broken, and we crossed several

ravines, having each its small running rivulet of crystal water. By-and-by

the rounded hillocks acquired a more abrupt and steep appearance; the grass

was no longer tall and green, but fine and dry; the sycamore, the cedar, and

large timber-trees began to appear. As we approached Wochnee, our route

was a succession of ascents and descents more precipitous and very

fatiguing, as we trudged through deep ravines and climbed the almost

perpendicular sides of the first range of the Abyssinian mountains.

At Wochnee we found no one to welcome us. The cameleers, having

unladen their camels, were going to depart, when a servant of one of the

officers sent to receive us by his Majesty arrived. He brought us

compliments from his master, who could not join us for a few days, as he

was collecting bearers; he told us that we must proceed another stage by the

camels, as no bearers could be obtained in the district of Wochnee. A

serious altercation then took place between the governor of Wochnee and

the cameleers. They declined to proceed any further, and after a short

consultation between themselves, each man seized his camel and walked

away. But the governor and the officer's servant had also been consulting

together: seeing the cameleers departing, they went to the village, and, as it

happened to be market-day, soon collected a good number of soldiers and

peasants. As the cameleers were passing close to the village, on a given

signal, the whole of the camels were seized. I regret to say, for the honour

of the Arabs and Takruries, that, though well armed, they did not show

fight, but on the contrary, ran away in every direction. Unwilling to lose

their precious beasts of burden, the owners returned by twos and threes.

More consultations followed: at last, on the promise of an extra dollar for

each, and a cow for all, peace and harmony were satisfactorily restored.

After a couple of hours' march, we reached Balwaha. I can understand the

difficulties the cameleers raised, as the road is exceedingly bad for camels,

passing as it does over two high and steep mountains and across two narrow

ravines densely overgrown with tall bamboos.

At Balwaha we encamped in a small natural enclosure, formed by beautiful

foliaged trees. Three days after our arrival, two of the officers sent by

Theodore to meet us at last made their appearance, but no bearers. We had

unfortunately arrived during the last days of the long feast before

Christmas, and we must, said the chief of the escort, have patience till the

feast was over.

On the 6th January about twelve hundred peasants were assembled, but the

confusion was so great that no start could be made before the following day,

and even then we only made the short stage of four miles. The greater part

of the heavy baggage was left behind, and it required a reinforcement from

Tschelga to allow us to proceed on our journey. On the 9th we made a better

stage, and halted for the night on a small plateau opposite the high hill fort

of Zer Amba.

We were now fairly in the mountains, and had often to dismount to descend

some precipitous declivity, wondering how our mules could climb the

opposite steep, wall-like ascent. On the 10th the same awful road, only

worse and worse as we advanced; and when at last we had ascended the

almost perpendicular precipice that leads to the Abyssinian plateau itself,

and admired the grand vista that lay at our feet, we congratulated ourselves

upon having at last reached the land of promise. We halted a few miles from

the market town of Tschelga, at a place called Wali Dabba. Here we had to

exchange bearers and consequently to wait several days till the new ones

arrived, or anything like order could be introduced. From that day my

troubles began.