He asked them, "Why did you wish to leave my country before you took

leave of me?" They answered that they had only acted according to Mr.

Rassam's orders, to whom they had been made over. He then said, "Why did

you not ask Mr. Rassam to bring you to me, and be reconciled before you

left?" and turning towards Mr. Rassam, said, "It is your fault. I told you to

reconcile me with them; why did you not do so?" Mr. Rassam replied: that

he had believed the written reconciliation that followed the trial of the

charges he had sent against them to be sufficient. The Emperor then said to

Mr. Rassam, "Bid I not tell you I wanted to give them mules and money,

and you answered me that you had bought mules for them, and that you had

money enough to take them to their country? Now, on your account, you

see them in chains. From the day you told me that you desired to send them

by another road I became suspicious, and imagined that you did so in order

that you might say in your country that they were released through your

cunning and power."

The former captives' supposed crimes are well known, and its the remainder

of the trial was only a repetition of the one of Gondar, it would be a mere

waste of time to speak of it here; suffice it to say that these unfortunate and

injured men answered with all humility and meekness, and endeavoured by

so doing to avert the wrath of the wretch in whose power they were.

The Emperor's pedigree was then read: from Adam to David all went on

smoothly enough; from Solomon's supposed son Menilek to Socinius few

names were given—perhaps they were patriarchs in their own way; but

when it came to Theodore's father and mother the difficulty increased,

indeed it became serious; many witnesses were brought forward to testify to

their royal descent, and even the opinion of the puppet-Emperor Johannes

was recorded in favour of Theodore's legal right to the throne of his

ancestors.

We were then called forward, and the scene of the 18th enacted over, again.

After we had been told to sit down, Theodore called his workmen before

him, and asked them if he ought to get "kassa?" (meaning a reparation for

what he had suffered at the hands of the Europeans). Some did not audibly

reply; whilst others loudly proclaimed that "kassa was good." In conclusion,

his Majesty said, addressing himself to us "Do you want to be my masters?

You will remain with me; and wherever I go, you will go; wherever I stay,

you will stay." On that we were dismissed to our tents, and Captain

Cameron was allowed to accompany us. The other Europeans, still in

chains, were sent to another part of the camp, where several weeks before a

fence had been erected, no one knew why.

The following day we were again called before Theodore, but this time it

was quite a private affair. The prisoners were first conducted to our tent,

and released from their fetters. We were then called into his presence; the

former captives followed us, and the Gaffat people shortly afterwards

entered, and were told to sit at the Emperor's right. As soon as the released

prisoners entered; they bowed their heads to the ground and begged for

pardon. His Majesty told them to rise, and after informing them that they

had never done anything wrong, and that they were his friends, bowed his

head to the ground, and in his turn begged for pardon. He remained in that

attitude until they had repeatedly told him, "For God's sake, we forgive

you!" Captain Cameron then read aloud Dr. Beke's letter and the petition of

the prisoners' relatives. The reconciliation effected, the Emperor dictated a

letter for our Queen, and Mr. Flad was selected to convey it. We then all had

our tents pitched in a large enclosure, fenced that very morning under his

Majesty's supervision. We were once more all united; but this time all

prisoners. Mr. Flad left; we expected that his mission would be

unsuccessful, and that England, disgusted with so much treachery, would

not condescend to treat further, but enforce her demands. The day Mr. Flad

left, his wife accompanied the workmen, who were ordered back to

Kourata; with them we had much less intercourse than before, as they were

at all times timid, and very careful not to have many dealings with doubtful

friends of the King.

Zagé was one of the principal towns of the formerly prosperous and

populous district of Metsha, but when we came we saw nought but ruins;

and had we not been told that the guicho and coffee-covered hill was only a

few weeks before the abode of thousands, we could not have credited it; nor

that the small circular patches, now green with grass and weeds, had been

the homes of a thriving and industrious population.

A few days after the reconciliation—the very morning Flad left for England

—his Majesty returned us our arms, and a portion of our money; he also

presented us at the same time with silver-mounted shields, spears, and

mules, and a few days later with horses. We saw him on several occasions:

twice he came to see us in our tents; one day we went with him to assist at

the trial of some guns made by his European workmen; once duck-shooting

with him on the lake; another time to see him play the national game of

goucks. He endeavoured to appear friendly, supplied us with abundant

rations, and twice a day sent his compliments; he even fired a salute and

gave a feast on our Queen's birthday. Nevertheless, we felt unhappy: our

cage was gilt, but still a cage; and the experience we had had of the King's

treachery made us constantly fear a recurrence of it. When we met him in

Damot, and when we visited him before at Zagé, we had only seen the actor

in his smiling mood; now all restraint was thrown off: women were flogged

to death close to our tents, and soldiers laden with chains or beaten to death

on the most trivial pretexts. The true character of the tyrant became daily

more apparent, and we felt that our position was most dangerous and

critical.

Theodore was still bent on building boats; seeing that everybody seemed

reluctant to help him he went to work himself; he made an immense flatbottomed bulrush boat of great thickness, and to propel it made two large

wheels worked by hand: in fact he had invented a paddle steamer, only the

locomotive agent was deficient. We saw it several times on the water; the

wheels were rather high up and it required at least a hundred men on it to

make them dip sufficiently. Strange to say he spent his time in that frivolous

way and never took notice of a large rebel force not four miles from his

camp.

Cholera had been making havoc in Tigré; we were not surprised, therefore,

to hear that it had spread over other provinces, and that several cases had

already broken out at Kourata. The King's camp was pitched in a very

unhealthy situation, on a low, swampy ground; fevers, diarrhoea, and

dysentery had prevailed to a great extent. Informed of the approach of

cholera, his Majesty wisely decided upon moving his camp to the highlands

of Begemder. Mrs. Rosenthal was at the time very unwell, and could not

stand the journey by land; she was therefore allowed to proceed by water to

Kourata, accompanied by her husband, myself, and Captain Cameron, also

in delicate health. We started on the evening of the 31st of May, and

reached Kourata early the next morning. A gale of wind was blowing at the

time, and we had to make frequent stoppages on the lee of the land, as the

heavy sea frequently threatened to swamp our frail boats. Without

exaggeration, this last passage was in all respects the ne plus ultra of

discomfort.

CHAPTER X.

Second Residence in Kourata—Cholera and Typhus break out in the Camp

—The Emperor resolves to march to Debra Tabor—Arrival at Gaffat—The

Foundry transformed into a Palace—Political Trial at Debra Tabor—The

Black Tent—Dr. Blanc and Mr. Rosenthal seized at Gaffat—Another Public

Trial—The Black Hole—March with the Emperor to Aibankab—Sent to

Magdala, and Arrival at the Amba.

At Kourata a few empty houses were put at our disposal, and we went to

work to make these dirty native dwellings inhabitable. It was rumoured that

Theodore intended to spend the rainy season in the neighbourhood, and on

the 4th he made a sudden visit; he was only accompanied by a few of his

chiefs. He came and returned by water. Ras Engeddah arrived about an hour

before him. I was advised to go and meet him on the beach; I therefore

accompanied the Gaffat people, who also went to present him their respects.

His Majesty, on seeing me, asked me how I was, if I liked the place, &c. No

one ever knew why he came. I believe, to judge for himself if the cholera

was raging there at the time or not, as he made many inquiries on the

subject.

On the 6th of June Theodore left Zagé with his army; Mr. Rassam and the

other prisoners accompanied him; all the heavy baggage had been sent by

boat to Kourata. On the 9th, his Majesty encamped on a low promontory

south of Kourata. Cholera had by this time broken out in the camp, and

hundreds were dying daily. In the hope of improving the sanitary condition

of the army, the Emperor moved his camp to some high ground a mile or so

north of the town; but the epidemic continued to rage with great virulence

both in the camp and in the town. The church was so completely choked up

with dead bodies that no more could be admitted, and the adjoining streets

offered the sad sight of countless corpses, surrounded by the sorrowful

relatives, awaiting for days and nights the hallowed grave in the now

crowded cemetery. Small-pox and typhus fever also made their appearance,

and claimed the victims cholera had spared.

On the 12th June we received orders to join the camp, as Theodore intended

to leave on the following day for the higher and more healthy province of

Begemder. On the 13th, at early morning, the camp was struck, and we

encamped in the evening on the banks of the Gumaré, a tributary of the

Nile. The next day the march was resumed. We had been more or less

ascending since our departure from Kourata, and Outoo (a beautiful plateau,

our halting-place of the 14th) must have been several thousand feet higher

than the lake; nevertheless, cholera, small-pox, and typhus fever continued

unabated. His Majesty inquired what was usually done in our country under

similar circumstances. We advised him to proceed at once to the higher

plateau of Begemder, to leave his sick at some distance from Debra Tabor,

to break up as far as possible his army, and distribute it over the whole

province, selecting a few healthy and isolated localities where every fresh

case that broke out should be sent. He acted upon this advice, and before

long had the satisfaction of seeing the several epidemics lose their

virulence, and, before many weeks, disappear entirely.

On the 16th we made a very long march. We started at about 6 A.M. and

never halted once until we arrived at Debra Tabor at about 2 P.M. As soon

as we reached the foot of the hill on which the Imperial houses arise, we

received a message from his Majesty telling us not to dismount, and shortly

afterwards he rode towards us, accompanied by a few of his bodyguard. We

all started for Gaffat, the European station, about three miles east of Debra

Tabor. En route we were overtaken by the most severe hailstorm I have ever

seen or experienced; such was its violence, that Theodore was several times

obliged to halt. The hail poured down in such thick masses, and the stones

were of such an enormous size, that it was indeed quite painful to bear. At

last we reached Gaffat, frozen and drenched to the skin; but the Emperor,

seemingly quite unaffected by the recent shower, acted as our cicerone, and

took us about the place, explaining to us the foundry, workshops, waterwheels, &c. A few planks were transformed into seats, and a fire lighted by

his order, and we remained with him alone for more than three hours,

discussing the laws and customs of England. Some carpets and cushions

had been left behind at Debra Tabor, and he sent back Ras Engeddah to

have them conveyed. As soon as he returned with the bearers, Theodore led

the way up the hill to Gaffat, and with his own hands spread the carpets,

and placed the throne in the house selected for Mr. Rassam. Other houses

were distributed to the other Europeans, after which his Majesty left.

On the 17th June the European workmen, who had remained behind at

Kourata, arrived at Debra Tabor. We are not aware that they made any

objection to our occupying their houses, but the Emperor perceived by their

demeanour that they were not pleased; he therefore accompanied them to

Gaffat, and in a few hours had the foundry, by means of shamas, gabis, and

carpets, transformed into a very decent abode. The throne was also

conveyed there, and when all was ready we were called. His Majesty, after

apologizing for the accommodation he was obliged to give us for a few

days, returned to Debra Tabor, promising that the next day he would see for

a more suitable dwelling for his guests. Accordingly, the following morning

he arrived, and had several native houses on a small hill opposite Gaffat

cleared out for our reception. As Mr. Rassam's house was rather small, that

gentleman took advantage of the circumstance to request that the Emperor

would withdraw the honour of placing the throne in his room. His Majesty

acquiesced, but had the place well carpeted, and the walls and ceiling lined

with white cloth. After all these daily changes we thought that we were

settled for the rainy season. Cholera and typhus fever had made their

appearance at Gaffat, and from morning to night I was in constant

attendance on the sick. One of my patients, the wife of one of the

Europeans, greatly occupied my time: she had first been attacked with

cholera, and was afterwards laid for many days at death's door with typhus

fever.

On the morning of the 25th of June we received a message from the

Emperor, to the effect that Mr. Rassam, his companions, the priests, and any

one he would like to take with him, should repair to Debra Tabor, to be

present at a political trial. The European workmen, Cantiba, Hailo, and

Samuel accompanied us. Arrived at Debra Tabor, we were surprised at not

being received with the usual salutations, and instead of being at once

conducted to the presence of Theodore, we were ushered into a black tent

pitched in the King's inclosure. We surmised that the political trial

concerned ourselves. We had been seated but a few minutes, when the

European workmen were sent for by his Majesty. After a while they

returned, with Cantiba Hailo, Samuel, and an Afa Negus (mouth of the

King), who delivered the Imperial messages.

The first and most important was, "I have received a letter from Jerusalem,

in which I am told that the Turks are making railways in the Soudan, to

attack my country conjointly with the English and French." The second

message was much to the same effect, only adding that as Mr. Rassam must

have seen the railway in construction, he ought to have informed his

Majesty of it. The third question was, "Is it not true that the Egyptian

railway was built by the English?" Fourthly, "Did he not give a letter to

Consul Cameron for him to deliver to the Queen of England, and did not the

Consul return without an answer? Did not Mr. Rosenthal say that the

English Government had laughed at his letter?" Altogether; there were

some seven or eight questions, but the others were insignificant, and I do

not remember them. A few days before a Greek priest had arrived from the

coast with a letter for his Majesty: Whether these statements were contained

in the missive; or were merely a pretext invented by Theodore himself, to

give a reason for the ill treatment he intended to inflict upon his innocent

guests, it is impossible to say. The concluding message was, "You must

remain here; your arms his Majesty no longer trusts in your hands, but your

property will be sent to you."

Mr. Rosenthal obtained permission to return to Gaffat to see his wife, and I

was granted leave to accompany Samuel, as Mrs. Waldmeier was that day

in a very critical state. Mr. Rassam and the other Europeans remained in the

tent. Mr. Waldmeier, on account of his wife's serious illness, had remained

at Gaffat, and he was much startled and grieved when he heard of our new

misfortune; especially as it would deprive his wife of medical attendance at

a time her life was despaired of. He begged me to remain near her for an

hour, whilst he would gallop to Debra Tabor to entreat his Majesty to let me

remain with him until his wife should be out of danger. Mrs. Waldmeier is a

daughter of the late Mr. Bell, who was held in great esteem and affection by

the Emperor. Not only did Theodore at once grant Waldmeier's request, but

added, that if Mr. Rassam had no objection, he would allow me to remain at

Gaffat, as sickness was prevailing there, during the expedition he intended

to make. As I was much reduced by chronic diarrhoea and overexertion, I

was much pleased at the prospect of remaining at Gaffat, instead of

campaigning during the rains. Mr. Rassam himself on the following day

requested his Majesty to allow me and some of our companions to remain

for the rainy season at Gaffat. In my case and in Mr. Rosenthal's,

permission was granted, but was refused to all the others.

Every day we heard that orders had been issued for the camp to be struck,

but his Majesty did not leave. He daily inquired after Mrs. Waldmeier, and

sent me his compliments. He visited Gaffat twice during the few days I was

there, and on each occasion sent for me and received me courteously. Mr.

Rassam and the other Europeans were allowed to come to Gaffat and spend

the day with us; and although now and then the word "Magdala" was

whispered, still it seemed as if the storm had blown over, and we hoped

before long to be all again united at Gaffat, and there in peace spend the

rainy season. On the 3rd of July an officer brought me the Imperial

compliments, and stated that his Majesty was coming to inspect the works,

and that I might present myself before him. I went at once to the foundry,

and on the road I met two of the Gaffat workmen also proceeding there. A

little incident then occurred, which was followed by serious consequences.

We met the Emperor near the foundry, riding ahead of his escort; he asked

us how we were, and we all lowed and took off our hats. As he passed,

along, the two Europeans with whom I walked, covered themselves; but

aware how touchy his Majesty, was on all points of etiquette, I kept my

head uncovered, though the sun was hot and fierce. Arrived at the foundry,

the Emperor again greeted me cordially; examined for a few minutes the

drawing of a gun his workmen proposed to cast for him, and then left, all of

us following. In the courtyard he passed close to Mr. Rosenthal, who did

not bow, as Theodore took no notice of him.

As the Emperor issued from the foundry fence a poor old beggar asked for

alms, saying, "My lords (gaitotsh) the Europeans have always been kind to

me. Oh! my king, do you also relieve my distress!" On hearing the

expression "lord" applied to his workmen, he got into a fearful passion.

"How dare you call any one 'lord' but myself. Beat him, beat him, by my

death!" Two of the executioners at once rushed upon the beggar, and began

beating him with their long sticks, Theodore all the while exclaiming, "Beat

him, beat him, by my death!" The poor old cripple, at first in heartrending

terms, implored for mercy; but his voice grew fainter and fainter, and in a

few minutes more there lay his corpse, that none dare remove or pray for.

The laughing hyenas that night caroused undisturbed on his abandoned

remains.

Theodore's rage was by no means abated by this act of cruelty; he advanced

a few steps, then stopped, turned, his lance in rest, looking around, the very

image of ungovernable fury. His eyes fell upon Mr. Rosenthal. "Seize him!"

cried he; Immediately several soldiers rushed forward to obey the imperial

command. "Seize the man they call a Hakeem." Instantly a dozen ruffians

pounced upon me, and I was held fast by the arms, coat, trousers—by every

place that afforded a grip. He then addressed himself to Mr. Rosenthal.

"You donkey, why did you call me the son of a poor woman? Why did you

abase me?" Mr. Rosenthal said, "If I have offended your Majesty, I beg for

pardon." All the while the Emperor was shaking his lance in a threatening

manner, and every minute I expected that he would throw it; I feared that,

blind with rage, he would not be able to control himself; and I well knew

that if once he began to give vent to his passions, my fate was also sealed.

Fortunately for us both, Theodore turned towards his European workmen

and abused them in no measured terms. "You slaves! Have I not bought you

with money? Who are you that you dare call yourselves 'lords?' Take care!"

Then addressing the two I had met on the road, he said, "You are proud, are

you? Slaves! Women! Rotten donkeys! you cover your heads, in my

presence! Did you not see me? Did not the Hakeem keep his head

uncovered? Poor men that I have made rich!" He then turned towards me,

and seeing me held by a dozen soldiers, he cried out, "Let him go; bring

him before me." All drew back except one, who conducted me to within a

few feet from the Emperor. He then asked me, "Do you know Arabic?"

Though I understand a little of that language, I thought it more prudent,

under the circumstances, to reply in the negative. He then told Mr.

Schimper to translate what he was going to say. "You, Hakeem, are my

friend. I have nothing against you; but others have abused me, and you must

come up with me to witness their trial." Then ordering Cantiba Hailo to

give me his mule, he mounted, I and Mr. Rosenthal following; the latter on

foot, dragged the whole way by the soldiers who had first seized him.

As soon as we reached Debra Tabor, the Emperor sent word to Mr. Rassam

to come out with the other Europeans, as he had something to tell him.

Theodore sat upon a rock, about twenty yards in front of us; between him

and ourselves stood a few of his high officers, and behind us a deep line of

soldiers. He was still angry, breaking the edges of the rock with the butt-end

of his lance, and spitting constantly between his words. He at once

addressed himself to the Rev. Mr. Stern, and asked him, "Was it as a

Christian, a heathen, or a Jew, that you abused me? Tell me where you find

in the Bible that a Christian ought to abuse? When you wrote your book, by

whose authority did you do it? Those who abused me to you, were they my

enemies or yours? Who was it told you evil things against me?" &c. He

afterwards said to Mr. Rassam, "You, also, have, abused me." "I?" replied

Mr. Rassam. "Yes, you; in four instances. First, you read Mr. Stern's book,

wherein I am abused; secondly, you did not reconcile me with the prisoners,

but wanted to send them out of the country; thirdly, your Government

allows the Turks to keep Jerusalem—it is my inheritance. The fourth I have

forgotten." He then asked Mr. Rassam whether he knew or not that

Jerusalem belonged to him, and that the Abyssinian convent there had been

seized by the Turks? As the descendant of Constantine and Alexander the

Great, India and Arabia belonged to him. He put many foolish questions of

the same kind. At last he said to Samuel, who was interpreting, "What have

you to say if I chain your friends?" "Nothing," replied Samuel; "are you not

the master?" Chains had been brought, but the answer somewhat pacified

him. He then addressed one of his chiefs, saying, "Can you watch these

people in the tent?" The other, who knew his answer, replied, "Your

Majesty, the house would be better." On that he gave orders for our baggage

to be conveyed from the black tent to a house contiguous to his own, and

we were told to go.

The house assigned to us was formerly used as a godown: it was built of

stone, with a large verandah all around, and closed by a single small door,

with no window or other aperture. It was only when several lighted candles

had been brought that we could find our way into the dark central room, and

it only required numbers to react the fearful drama of the Calcutta Black

Hole. Some soldiers carried in our bedding, and a dozen guards sat near us,

holding lighted candles in their hands. The Emperor sent us several

messages. Mr. Rassam took advantage of this circumstance to complain

bitterly of the unfair treatment inflicted upon us. He said, "Tell his Majesty

that I have done my best to bring on a good understanding between my

country and him; but when to-day's work is known, whatever the

consequences may be, let him not throw the blame upon me." Theodore

sent back word, "If I treat you well or not; it is the same; my enemies will

always say that I have ill-treated you, so it does not matter."

A little later we were rather startled by a message from his Majesty,

informing us that he could not rest before comforting his friend, and that he

would come and see us. Though we did our best to dissuade him from such

a step, he soon afterwards came; accompanied by some slaves carrying

arrack and tej. He said, "Even my wife told me not to go out, but I could not

leave you in grief, so I have come to drink with you." On that he had arrack

and tej presented to all of us, himself setting the example.

He was calm, and rather serious, though he made great efforts to appear

gay. He must have remained at least an hour; conversing on different topics,

the Pope of Rome being the principal one discussed. Amongst other things:

he said, "My father was mad, and though people often say that I am mad

also; I never would believe it; but now I know it is true." Mr. Rassam

answered, "Pray do not say such a thing." His Majesty replied, "Yes, yes, I

am mad," Shortly before leaving, he said, "Do not look at my face or take

heed of my words when I speak to you before my people, but look at my

heart: I have an object." As he returned, he gave orders to the guards to

withdraw outside, and not to inconvenience us. Though we have seen him

since then once or twice, at a distance, it is the last time we conversed with

him.

The two days we spent in the black hole at Debra Tabor, all huddled up

together, obliged to have lighted candles day and night, and in anxious

uncertainty about our future fate, were really days of mental torture and

physical discomfort. We hailed with joy the announcement that we were

going to move; any alternative was preferable to our position—be it rain in

a worn-out tent, be it chains in one of the ambas—anything was better than

close confinement, deprived of all comforts, even of the cheering light of

day.

At noon on the 5th of July, we were informed that his Majesty had already

left, and that our escort was in attendance. All were delighted at the

prospect of seeing fresh air and green fields and bright sun. We did not

require a second command, and did not even give a second thought to the

journey, rain, mud, and such like inconveniences. On that day we made but

a short stage, and encamped on a large plain called Janmêda, a few miles

south of Gaffat. Early morning the following day the army moved off, but

we waited in the rear at least three hours before the order came for us to

start. Theodore, seated on a rock, had allowed the whole force, campfollowers included, to go on in advance, and like us, unprotected from the

pouring rain, and seemingly in deep thought, examined the different corps

as they passed before him. We were now strictly watched; several chiefs

with their men guarded us day and night, a detachment marched ahead of

us, another in the rear, and a strong party never lost sight of us.

We halted that afternoon on a large plain near a small eminence called

Kulgualiko, on which the Imperial tents were pitched. The following day,

the same mode of departure was adopted, and after travelling all night we

halted at a place called Aibankab, at the foot of Mount Guna, the highest

peak in Begemder, often covered during the rainy season with frozen hail.

We remained the 8th at Aibankab. In the afternoon his Majesty told us to

ascend the hill on which his tents were pitched, to see the snow-covered

summit of the Guna, as from our position below we could not obtain a good

view of it. A few polite messages passed between us, but we did not see

him.

Early on the 9th, Samuel, our balderaba, was sent for. He stayed away a

long time, and on his return informed us that we were to go on in advance,

that our heavy baggage would be sent after us, and that we must keep with

us a few light articles which the soldiers of our escort and our mules could

carry. Several of the officers of the Imperial household, to whom we had

shown some kindness, came to bid us good-by, all looking very sad—one

with tears in his eyes. Though no one informed us of our destination, we all

surmised that Magdala and chains were our lot.

Bitwaddad Tadla, with the men under his command, now took charge of us.

We soon perceived that we were more strictly guarded than ever; one or two

mounted soldiers had special charge of each separate individual of our

party, flogging the mules if they did not go fast enough, or causing those in

front to wait until the less well mounted could come up. We made a very

long march on that day, from 9 A.M. to 4 P.M., without a halt. The soldiers,

who carried a few parcels, came on shortly after us, but the baggage mules

only arrived at sunset, and dead tired. As the small rowties we had brought

with us had not arrived, the head of the guard had a house in the village of

Argabea cleared out for our reception. No food being forthcoming, we

killed a sheep and broiled it over the fire, Abyssinian fashion; hungry and

tired, we thought it the most exquisite meal we had ever made.

At sunrise, the following morning, our guards told us to get ready, and soon

after we were in the saddle. Our route lay E.S.E. Any slight doubts we

might still have had about our destination now vanished; the former

prisoners knew too well the road to Magdala to have any misgivings on the

subject. On the previous day the road was a gradual ascent over a wellcultivated and populous district; but on the 10th, the country bore a wild

aspect, few villages were to be seen, and but few dark tufts of cedars graced

the summit of the distant hills, proclaiming the presence of a church. The

scenery was grand, and for the artist no doubt full of attractions; but for

Europeans, driven like cattle by semi-barbarians, the precipitous descents

and steep acclivities had certainly no charms. After a few hours' march, we

arrived at an almost perpendicular precipice (almost 1,500 feet in height,

and not more than a quarter of a mile in breadth), that we had both to

descend and ascend in order to reach the next plateau. Another couple of

hours' march brought us to the gate's of Begemder. In front of us arose the

plateau of Dahonte, only about a couple of miles distant, but we had to

ascend a more abrupt precipice than the one we had just passed and climb

again a steeper ascent before we could reach it. The valley of the Jiddah, a

tributary of the Nile, was between us and our halting-place—a stiff march,

as the silver thread we viewed from the narrow passage between the

basaltic columns of the Eastern Begemder ridge was 3,000 feet below us.

Tired and worn out, at last; we accomplished our task.

We halted for the night at a place called Magat, on the first terrace of the

Dahonte plateau, about 500 feet from the summit. Our small tent arrived in

time, our servants had carried with them a few provisions, and we managed

to make a frugal meal; but only one or two of the best baggage mules made

their appearance, so that we had to lie on the bare ground—those best off on

leathern skins. It was five days after our arrival at Magdala before a small

portion of our luggage arrived, and until then we could not even change our

clothes, and had nothing to protect ourselves against the cold nights of the

rainy season. Early on the morning of the 11th we continued our ascent, and

soon reached the splendid plateau of Dahonte. This small province is but a

large circular plain about twelve miles in diameter, covered at the time of

our journey, with fields in all stages of cultivation, and with beautiful green

meadows, where grazed thousands of heads of cattle, and where mules,

horses, and innumerable flocks everywhere meet the eye. The whole

circumference of this plain is dotted with small rounded hillocks, and from

their base to the summit numerous well-built villages arise. Dahonte is

certainly the most fertile and picturesque district I have seen in Abyssinia.

By noon we reached the eastern extremity of the plateau, and there before

us again appeared one of those awful chasms we had encountered twice on

our road since leaving Debra Tabor. We did not at all rejoice at the idea of

having to descend, then wade through the wide and rapid Bechelo, and

again climb the opposite precipice—a perfect wall—to complete our day's

work. Fortunately, our mules were so tired that the chief of our guard

halted, for the night half way down the descent, at one of the villages that

are perched on the several terraces of this basaltic mountain. At dawn on

the 12th we continued our descent, crossed the Bechelo, and ascended to

the opposite plateau of Watat, where we arrived at eleven A.M. There we

made a slight halt and partook of a frugal breakfast, sent by the chief of

Magdala to Bitwaddad Tadla, who kindly shared it with us.

From Watat to Magdala the road is an inclined plain, constantly but

gradually shelving upwards towards the high plateau of the Wallo country

—the end of our journey, as Magdala is on its border. The amba, with a few

isolated mountains, all perpendicular and crowned with walls of basalt,

seem like miniatures of the large expanses of Dahonte and Wallo—small

particles detached from the neighbouring gigantic masses.

The road on nearing Magdala is more abrupt; one or two conical hills have

to be crossed before the amba itself is reached. Magdala is formed of two

cones, separated by a small plateau named Islamgee, a few hundred feet

lower than the two peaks it divides. The northern peak is the higher of the

two, but on account of the absence of water and the small space it affords, it

is not inhabited; and to Magdala alone belonged the privilege of being

Theodore's most famous fortress, his treasury, and his gaol.

From Islamgee the ascent is steeper, but we were able to ride on our mules

up to the second door; a feat we could not perform whilst ascending from

the Bechelo and Jiddah, as we had not only to descend almost all the way

on foot, but had frequently to dismount at the ascent, and climb on all-fours,

leaving the mules to find their way as best they could. The distance from

Watat to Magdala is generally accomplished in five hours, but we were

nearly seven, as we had to make frequent halts, and messengers came to and

fro from the Amba. Many of the chiefs of the mountain came out to meet

Bitwaddad Tadla.

At Islamgee another long halt was made, I suppose while our lettre de

cachet was examined by the chiefs in council. At last, one by one, counted

like sheep, we passed the doors, and were taken to a large open space in

front of the King's house. There we were met by the Ras (Head of the

mountain) and the six superior chiefs, who join with him in council on

every important occasion. As soon as they had greeted Bitwaddad Tadla

they retired a few yards, and consulted with him and Samuel. After a few

minutes, Samuel told us to come on; and, accompanied by the chiefs,

escorted by their followers, we were taken to a house near the Imperial

fence. A fire was lighted. To fatigued and dejected men the prospect of a

roof, after so many days passed in the rain, cheered us even in our misery,

and when the chiefs had retired, leaving a guard at the door, we soon forgot

—talking, smoking, or sleeping near the fire—that we were the innocent

victims of base treachery. Two houses had been allowed to our party. At

first we all slept in one of them, the other being made over to the servants,

and used as a kitchen.

CHAPTER XI.

Our First House at Magdala—The Chief has a "little Business" with us—

Feelings of an European when being put in Chains—The Operation

described—The Prisoner's Toilet—How we Lived—Our first Messenger a

Failure—How we obtained Money and Letters—A Magdala Diary—A

Rainy Season in a Godjo.

It was already dark when we had arrived the evening before. Our first

thought in the morning was to examine our new abode. It consisted of two

circular huts, surrounded by a strong thorny fence, adjoining the Emperor's

Enclosure. The largest hut was in a bad state of repair; and as the roof,

instead of being supported by a central pole, had about a dozen of lateral

ones forming as many separate divisions, we made it over to our servants

and to our balderaba Samuel. The one we kept for ourselves had been built

by Ras Hailo, at one time a great favourite of Theodore, but who had

unfortunately fallen under his displeasure. Ras Hailo was not chained

during the time he remained in that house: for a time he was even

"pardoned," and made chief of the mountain. But Theodore, after a while,

again deprived him of his command and confidence, and sent him to the

common gaol, chained like the other prisoners. For an Abyssinian house it

was well built; the roof was almost the best I saw in the country, being

made with small bamboos closely arranged and bound with rings of the

same material. After Ras Hailo had been sent to the gaol, his house had

been made over to the favourite of the day, Ras Engeddah; but, according to

custom, Theodore took it away from him to lodge his English guests.

For us it was small: we were eight, and the place could not contain easily

more than four. The evenings and nights were bitterly cold, and the fire

occupying the centre of the room, some of us had to lay half the body in a

recess that leaked, and half in the room. At first we felt our position bitterly.

The rainy season had set in, and hailstorms occurred almost every day.

Many of us (Prideaux and myself amongst them) had not even a change of

clothes, no bedding, nor anything to cover ourselves with during the long

cold damp nights; and I always shall remember with feelings of gratitude

the Samaritan act of Samuel, who, pitying me, kindly lent me one of his

shamas.

We had hardly any money, and we had not the remotest idea from whence

we could obtain any. Though there was some talk of rations being supplied

from the Imperial stores, the former captives only laughed at the idea; they

knew, from bitter experience, that prisoners on Amba Magdala "were

expected to give, but never to receive." The event proved that their surmises

were right: we never received anything from the man who on all occasions

loudly proclaimed himself our friend but a small jar of tej, that for some

months was daily sent to Samuel: (I believe all the time it was intended for

him; at all events, he and his friends drank it;) and on great feast days a

couple of lean, hungry-looking cows, of which, I am delighted to say, I

declined a share.

To the European, accustomed to find at his door every necessary of life, the

fact that not a shop exists throughout the breadth and width of Abyssinia

may appear strange; but still it is so. We had, therefore, to be our own

butchers and bakers, and as for what is called grocery stores, we had simply

to dispense with them. Our food was abominably bad; the sheep we

purchased were little better than London cats; and as no flour-mill is to be

found in Abyssinia, far less any bakers, we were obliged to purchase the

grain, beat it to remove the chaff, and grind it between two stones—not the

flat grinding-stones of Egypt or India, but on a small curved piece of rock,

where the grain is reduced to flour by means of a large hard kind of pebble

held in the hand. It was brown bread with a vengeance. On the mountain we

might buy eggs and fowls; but as the first were generally bad when sold to

us, we soon got disgusted with them; and though we put up with the fowls

as a change of diet, their toughness and leanness would have made them

rejected everywhere else. Being the rainy reason, we had great difficulty in

purchasing a little honey. Wild coffee was now and then obtainable; but it

made, in the absence of sugar, and with or without smoky milk, such a

bitter, nauseous compound, that, after a while, I and others preferred doing

without it. Such was then the amount of "luxuries" we had to depend on

during our long captivity,—coarse, vitreous-looking, badly-baked bread; the

ever-returning dish of skinny, tough mutton, the veteran cock, smoked

butter, and bitter coffee. Tea, sugar, wine, fish, vegetables, &c., were not,

either for love or money, to be obtained anywhere. The coarseness and

uniformity of our food, however, was as nothing compared with our dread

of being starved to death; for even the few and inferior articles I have

mentioned would fail us when our money was expended.

I was very badly off for clothes. Before leaving Debra Tabor, I was told to

leave everything behind in the charge of the Gaffat people, and only take

with me the few things I required for the road. My only pair of shoes, what

from rain, sun, and climbing, had become so thoroughly worn-out, and so

hard, as to bring on a wound that took months to heal, so that until the

arrival of one of my servants from the coast, many months afterwards, I had

to walk, or rather crawl, about on naked feet.

Life in common among men of different tastes and habits is, indeed,

dreadful. There we were, eight Europeans, all huddled up in the same small

place, a waiting-room, a dining-room, a dormitory; most of us entire

strangers before, and only united by one bond—common misfortune.

Adversity is but little fitted to improve the temper: on the contrary, it breaks

down all social habits; the more so if education and birth do not enable the

sufferer to contend against the greatest difficulties. We feared above all

things that familiarity which creeps on so naturally between men of totally

different social positions, and leads to harsh words and contempt. We had to

live on terms of equality with one of the former servants of Captain

Cameron; we had to be quiet if some remained talking part of the night, and

put up silently with the defects of others in the hope that our own might

meet with the same leniency.