On Friday the scene changes. On that day the whole community is seized

with martial ardour. Having no mosque, the Takruries devote their holy day

to ceremonies more suited to their taste, and resort to the market-place, now

transformed into a parade-ground, a few to drill, the greater number to

admire. Some Takruries, having served for a time in the Egyptian army,

returned to their adopted land full of the value of disciplined troops, and of

the superiority of muskets over lances and sticks. They prevailed on their

countrymen to form a regiment on the model of "master's," Old muskets

were purchased, and Sheik Jumma had the glory to see during his reign the

1st, or Jumma's Own, rise to existence. A more ludicrous sight could not, I

believe, be witnessed. About a hundred flat-nosed, woolly, grinning negroes

march around the parade-ground in Indian file, out of step, for about ten

minutes. Line is then formed, but not being as yet well up to the proper

value of the words of command, half face on one side, half on the other.

Still the crowd admires; white teeth are displayed from ear to ear. The

yellow-eyed monsters now feel confident that with such support nothing is

impossible, and no sooner is "stand at ease" proclaimed, than the spectators

rush, forward to admire more closely, and to congratulate, the future heroes

of Metemma.

Sheik Jumma is an ugly specimen of an ugly race: he is about sixty years of

age, tall and lank, with a wrinkled face, very black, having a few grey

patches on the chin, and the owner of a nose so flat that it requires time to

see that he has one at all; He is generally drunk, and spends the greater part

of the year carrying the tribute either to the Abyssinian Lion, or to his other

master the Pasha of Khartoum. A few days after our arrival at Metemma he

returned from Abyssinia, and politely paid us a visit, accompanied by a

motley and howling train of followers. We returned his call; but he had got

drunk in the interval, and was at least uncivil, if not positively rude.

During our stay we had occasion to witness the great yearly, festival of the

re-election of the Sheik. Early in the morning a crowd of Takruries came

pouring in from all directions, armed with sticks or spears, a few mounted,

the majority on foot, all howling and screeching (I believe they call it

singing), so that before even the dust raised by a new party could be seen,

the ear was deafened by their clamour. Every Takrurie warrior—that is,

every one who can howl and carry a bludgeon or lance—is entitled to a

vote; for this privilege he pays a dollar. The polling consists in counting the

money, and the amount decides the ruler's fate. The re-elected Sheik (such

was the result of the election we witnessed) killed cows, supplied jowaree

loaves, and, above all, immense jars of merissa (a kind of sour toast-andwater, intoxicating for all that), and feasted for two days the whole body of

the electors. It is difficult to say which of the two is out of pocket, the

elector or the Sheik. There is no doubt that every Takrurie will eat and drink

to the full amount of his dollar; is content with paying his homage, and

wishes to have the worth of his money. Bribery is unknown! The drums, the

sign of royalty, have been silent for three days (during the interregnum), but

the cows are no sooner slaughtered and the merissa handed round by black

maidens or fair Galla slaves, than their monotonous beat is again heard;

soon to be drowned under the howling chorus of two thousand intoxicated

negroes.

The following morning the whole assembled "by orders" on a place some

distance from the town. Arranged in a large crescent, Sheik Jamma

addressed his warriors in these words: "We are a strong and mighty people,

unequalled in horsemanship and in the use of the club and the spear!"

Moreover, (said he), they had increased their power by adopting the system

of fire-arms, the real strength of the Turks. He was all-confident that the

very sight of their gunmen would strike terror into every neighbouring tribe.

He ended by proposing a raid into Abyssinia, and said: "We will take cows,

slaves, horses, and mules, and please our master the great Theodore by

plundering his enemy Tisso Gobazé!" A wild feu-de-joie , and a terrible

roar, from the excited crowd, informed the old Sheik that his proposal was

accepted. That very same afternoon they started on their expedition, and

probably surprised some peaceful district, as they returned after a few days,

driving before them several thousand heads of cattle.

Metemma, from May to November, is very unhealthy. The principal

diseases are continued, remittent, and intermittent fevers, diarrhoea, and

dysentery. The Takruries are a tough race, and resist well the noxious

influences of the climate; but not so the Abyssinian, or the white man: the

first is almost certain to die should he attempt to spend the dreaded months

in the malarious low country, the second most probably will suffer much in

health, but resist for a season or two. During our stay, I had many demands

for medicine. Large, cake-like spleens were greatly reduced by local

applications of tincture of iodine, and the internal administration of small

doses of quinine and iodine of potassium. Chronic diarrhoea yielded readily

to a few doses of castor oil, followed by opium and tannic acid. Acute and

chronic dysentery was treated by ipecacuanha, followed by astringents. One

of my patients was the son and heir of the Sheik. He had been suffering for

the last two years from chronic dysentery; and although under my care he

entirely recovered, his ungrateful father never even thanked me for all my

trouble. Simple ophthalmia, skin diseases, and glandular swellings were

also common.

The Takruries have no knowledge whatever of medicine: charms are here,

as throughout the Soudan, the great remedy. They are also used as

preventatives to keep off the evil eye, bad spirits, and genii of different

sorts; for these reasons almost every individual— nay, cattle, mules, and

horses, are covered with amulets of all shapes and sizes.

The day after our arrival at Metemma we despatched two messengers with a

letter to the Emperor Theodore, to inform him that we had reached

Metemma, the place he had himself fixed upon, and were only waiting for

his permission to proceed to his presence. We feared that the fickle despot

might change his mind, and leave us for an unlimited period in the

unhealthy Galabat. More than a month had elapsed, and we were giving

way to despair, when, to our great joy, on the 25th of December (1865), the

messengers we had despatched on our arrival, also those sent from

Massowah at the time of our departure, returned, bringing for us civil and

courteous answers from his Majesty. Sheik Jumma was also ordered by his

Abyssinian master to treat us well, and to provide us with camels up to

Wochnee. At that village, Theodore informed us, we should be met by an

escort and by some of his officers, by whom arrangements would be made

to convey our luggage to the imperial camp.

CHAPTER VII.

Entrance into Abyssinia—Altercation between Takruries and

Abyssinians at Wochnee—Our Escort and Bearers—Applications

for Medicine—First Reception by his Majesty—The Queen's Letter

Translated, and Presents Delivered—Accompany his Majesty through

Metcha—His Conversation en route .

Heartily sick of Metemma, and longing to climb the high range so long a

forbidden barrier to our hopes and wishes, we soon made our preparations,

but were delayed a few days on account of the camels. Sheik Jumma,

probably proud of his late achievements seemed to take his orders pretty

coolly, and, had we not been more anxious ourselves to penetrate into the

tiger's den than the Sheik to comply with the King's request, we should no

doubt have remained many a day longer at the court of that negro potentate.

By dint of courteous messages; promises, and threats, the required number

of camels was at last forthcoming, so that on the afternoon of the 28th

December, 1865, we passed the Ethiopian Rubicon, and halted for the night

on Abyssinian ground. On the morning of the 30th we arrived at Wochnee,

and pitched our tents under some sycamores at a short distance from the

village. This, our first stage in Abyssinia, led us through woods of mimosas,

acacias, and incense-trees; the undulating ground, waving like the ocean

after a storm, was covered with high and still green grass. As we advanced,

the ground became more irregular and broken, and we crossed several

ravines, having each its small running rivulet of crystal water. By-and-by

the rounded hillocks acquired a more abrupt and steep appearance; the grass

was no longer tall and green, but fine and dry; the sycamore, the cedar, and

large timber-trees began to appear. As we approached Wochnee, our route

was a succession of ascents and descents more precipitous and very

fatiguing, as we trudged through deep ravines and climbed the almost

perpendicular sides of the first range of the Abyssinian mountains.

At Wochnee we found no one to welcome us. The cameleers, having

unladen their camels, were going to depart, when a servant of one of the

officers sent to receive us by his Majesty arrived. He brought us

compliments from his master, who could not join us for a few days, as he

was collecting bearers; he told us that we must proceed another stage by the

camels, as no bearers could be obtained in the district of Wochnee. A

serious altercation then took place between the governor of Wochnee and

the cameleers. They declined to proceed any further, and after a short

consultation between themselves, each man seized his camel and walked

away. But the governor and the officer's servant had also been consulting

together: seeing the cameleers departing, they went to the village, and, as it

happened to be market-day, soon collected a good number of soldiers and

peasants. As the cameleers were passing close to the village, on a given

signal, the whole of the camels were seized. I regret to say, for the honour

of the Arabs and Takruries, that, though well armed, they did not show

fight, but on the contrary, ran away in every direction. Unwilling to lose

their precious beasts of burden, the owners returned by twos and threes.

More consultations followed: at last, on the promise of an extra dollar for

each, and a cow for all, peace and harmony were satisfactorily restored.

After a couple of hours' march, we reached Balwaha. I can understand the

difficulties the cameleers raised, as the road is exceedingly bad for camels,

passing as it does over two high and steep mountains and across two narrow

ravines densely overgrown with tall bamboos.

At Balwaha we encamped in a small natural enclosure, formed by beautiful

foliaged trees. Three days after our arrival, two of the officers sent by

Theodore to meet us at last made their appearance, but no bearers. We had

unfortunately arrived during the last days of the long feast before

Christmas, and we must, said the chief of the escort, have patience till the

feast was over.

On the 6th January about twelve hundred peasants were assembled, but the

confusion was so great that no start could be made before the following day,

and even then we only made the short stage of four miles. The greater part

of the heavy baggage was left behind, and it required a reinforcement from

Tschelga to allow us to proceed on our journey. On the 9th we made a better

stage, and halted for the night on a small plateau opposite the high hill fort

of Zer Amba.

We were now fairly in the mountains, and had often to dismount to descend

some precipitous declivity, wondering how our mules could climb the

opposite steep, wall-like ascent. On the 10th the same awful road, only

worse and worse as we advanced; and when at last we had ascended the

almost perpendicular precipice that leads to the Abyssinian plateau itself,

and admired the grand vista that lay at our feet, we congratulated ourselves

upon having at last reached the land of promise. We halted a few miles from

the market town of Tschelga, at a place called Wali Dabba. Here we had to

exchange bearers and consequently to wait several days till the new ones

arrived, or anything like order could be introduced. From that day my

troubles began.

I was at all hours of the day surrounded by an importuning crowd, of all

ages and sexes, afflicted by the many ills that flesh is heir to. I had no more

privacy, and no more rest. Did I leave our camp with my gun in search of

game, a clamorous crowd followed me. On the march, at every halt from

Wali Dabba to Theodore's camp in Damot, I heard nothing else from sunrise

to sunset but the incessant cries of "Abiet, abiet; medanite, medanite ."

[Footnote: "Lord Master, medicine, medicine."] I did my best; I attended at

any hour of the day those who would benefit from a few doses of medicine.

But this did not satisfy the great majority, composed of old syphilitic cases,

nor the leper, nor those suffering from elephantiasis, the epileptic, the

scrofulous, or those who had been mutilated at the hands of the cruel

Gallas. Day after day the crowd of patients increased; those who had met

with refusal remained in the hope that on another day the "Hakeem's" boxes

of unheard-of medicine might be opened, for them also. New ones daily

poured in. The many cures of simple cases that I had been able to

accomplish spread my fame far and wide, and even reached my countrymen

at Magdala, who heard that an English Hakeem had arrived, who could

break bones and instantly set them, so that the individual operated upon

walked away like the paralytic in Holy Writ. At last the nuisance became

intolerable, and I was obliged to keep my tent closed all day long; whenever

I left it I was surrounded by an admiring crowd. The officers of the escort

were obliged to place a guard round my tent, and only allowed their

relatives and friends to approach. Still, these were often countless, and it

was not till the dread of the despot overcame even their love of life and

health, that successful and unsuccessful postulants returned to their homes.

On the 13th January we began our march towards the Emperor's camp, and

passed successively through the provinces of Tschelga, part of Dembea,

Dagossa, Wandigé, Atchefur, Agau Medar, and Damot, leaving the Tana

Sea on our left. The three first-named provinces had a few years before

fallen under the wrath of the despot; every village had been burnt, every

crop destroyed, and the inhabitants had either perished from famine or been

absorbed into the Imperial army. A few had just then returned to their

broken-down homes, on hearing of the pardon proclaimed by the Emperor;

who, after three years, had relented, and allowed those who still wandered

in distant provinces, destitute and homeless, to return again to the land of

their fathers. Here and there, amongst the ruins of former prosperous

villages, some half-starved and almost naked peasants were seen erecting

small sheds on the ashes of their ancestral huts, near the land they were

going again to cultivate. Alas, they knew not how soon the same merciless

hand would be stretched upon them! Atchefur had also been plundered at

the same date; but their "crime" not having been so great, the "father of his

people" had been content to strip them of all their property, and did not call

fire in aid to complete his vengeance. The villages of Atchefur are large and

well built; some, such as Limju, can rank with small towns; but the people

had a poor and miserable appearance. The small amount of cultivation

indicated but too plainly that they expected another plunder, and just tilled

the soil enough to meet their immediate wants.

[Illustration: VILLAGE OF DANKORA IN ATCHEFUR.]

[Illustration: CHURCH OF KEDUS GEORGIS AND VILLAGE OF

NEFASA AGAU MEDUR.]

The Agau Medars were always pets of the Emperor; he never plundered

them, or, what is the same, he never made any lengthened "friendly stay"

among them. The rich and abundant harvest ready for the sickle, the

numerous herds of cattle grazing in the flower-speckled meadows, the large

and neat villages, the happy look of the peasants, clearly proved what

Abyssinia can do for its children if their rich and fertile soil was not laid

waste in wanton destruction, and themselves driven by warfare and

bloodshed to perish from misery and hunger.

Theodore's camp was at this time in Damot. He had already burnt,

plundered, and slaughtered to his heart's content; it is therefore not

astonishing that from Agau to his camp we saw, apart from our escort and

bearers, not a human being: no sleek cattle, no smiling hamlet—a dire,

contrast to the happy Agau that "St. Michael protects."

The 25th of January was our last stage. We had halted the night before at a

short distance from the Imperial camp. The black and white tents of

Theodore, pitched on a high conical hill, stood out in bold relief as the

setting sun made the dark background darker still. A faint, distant hum,

such as one hears on approaching a large city, came now and then to us,

carried by the soft evening breeze, and the smoke that arose for miles

around the dark hill crowned by its silent tents, left us no, doubt that we

should before long find ourselves face to face with the African despot, and

that we were even then almost in the midst of his countless host. As we

approached, messenger after messenger came to meet us; we had to halt

several times, march on again for a while, and then halt anew; at last the

chief of the escort told us that it was time to dress. A small rowtie was

accordingly pitched; we put on our uniforms, and, mounting again, we had

hardly proceeded a hundred yards, when, coming to a sudden turn in the

road, we saw displayed before us one of those Eastern scenes which

brought back to our memory the days of Lobo and of Bruce.

A conical wooded hill, opposite to the one honoured by the Imperial tents,

was covered to the very summit by the gunners and spearmen of Theodore;

all in gala dress; they were clad in shirts of rich-coloured silks, the black,

brown, or red lamd [Footnote: A peculiar mantle of fur or velvet.] falling

from their shoulders, the bright iron of the lances glancing in the light of the

midday sun which poured its rays through the dark foliage of the cedars. In

the valley between the hills a large body of cavalry, about 10,000 strong,

formed a double line, between which we advanced. On our right, dressed in

gorgeous array, almost all bearing the silver shield and the Bitwa, their

horses adorned with richly plated bridles, stood the whole of the officers of

his Majesty's army and household, the governors of provinces and of

districts, &c. All were mounted, some on really noble-looking animals,

tribute from the plateaus of Yedjow and the highlands of Shoa. On our left,

the corps of cavalry was darker, but more compact, than its aristocratic vis-

à-vis . The horses, though on the whole, perhaps, less graceful, were strong

and in good condition; and seeing their iron ranks, we could well

understand how panic-stricken the poor scattered peasants must have been

when Theodore, at the head of his well-armed and well-mounted band of

ruthless followers, suddenly appeared among their peaceful homes, and,

before his very presence was suspected, had come, destroyed, and gone.

In the centre opposite to us stood Ras Engeddah, the Prime Minister,

distinguished from all by his gentlemanly appearance and the great

simplicity of his attire. Bare-headed, the shama girded in token of respect,

he delivered the Imperial message of welcome, translated into Arabic by

Samuel, who stood by him, and whose finely chiselled features and

intellectual countenance at once proclaimed his superiority over the

ignorant Abyssinian. Compliments delivered, the Ras and ourselves

mounted, and advanced towards the Imperial tents, preceded by the body of

mounted grandees, and followed by the cavalry. Arrived at the foot of the

hill, we dismounted, and were conducted to a small red flannel tent pitched

for our reception on the ascent itself. There we rested for a while, and

partook of a slight collation. Towards three o'clock we were informed that

the Emperor would receive us; we ascended the hill on foot, escorted by

Samuel and several other officers of the Imperial household. As soon as we

reached the small plateau on the summit, an officer brought us renewed

greetings and compliments from his Majesty. We advanced slowly towards

the beautiful durbar-tent of red and yellow silk, between a double line of

gunners, who, on a signal, fired a salute very creditable to their untaught

skill.

Arrived at the entrance of the tent, the Emperor again inquired after our

health and welfare. Having acknowledged with due respect his courteous

inquiries, we advanced towards the throne, and delivered into his hands the

letter from her Majesty the Queen. The Emperor received it civilly, and told

us to sit down on the splendid carpets that covered the ground. The

Emperor was seated on an alga, wrapped up to the eyes in a shama, the sign

of greatness and of power in Abyssinia. On his right and left stood four of

his principal officers, clad in rich and gay silks, and behind him watched

one of his trusty familiars, holding a double-barrelled pistol in each hand.

The King made a few complaints about the European prisoners, and

regretted that by their conduct they had interrupted the friendship formerly

existing between the two nations. He was happy to see us, and hoped that

all would be well again. After a few compliments had been exchanged, on

the plea that we must be tired, having come so far, we were allowed to

depart.

The letter from the Queen of England, which we had handed over to his

Abyssinian Majesty, was in English, and no translation had been affixed to

it. His Majesty did not break the seal before us, probably on account of the

presence of his high officers; as he would not have liked them to witness his

disappointment had the letter not suited his views. As soon as we had

reached our tent, the letter was sent to us to be translated; but as we had

with us no European who understood the language of the country, it had to

be rendered first by Mr. Rassam into Arabic to Samuel, and by him from

that language into Amharic. There is much reason to regret that none of the

Europeans in the country who were conversant with the Amharic language

were sent for before that important document was made over to his

Majesty; for I believe that not only the translation was—in many respects—

a bad one, but, moreover, incorrect. A simple phrase was rendered into one

of deep importance to the success of the mission—one of such serious

meaning, considering Theodore's position, that I am still inclined to believe

that it was introduced in the Amharic translation by Theodore's instructions.

The English ran thus:—"And so, not doubting that you will receive our

servant Rassam in a favourable manner, and give entire credit to all that he

shall say to you on our part." This was rendered:—"He will do for you

whatever you require," or words to that effect. His Majesty was greatly

pleased, so his confidential servants said, with the Queen's letter; and

intimated that he would before long release the captives.

On the following morning Theodore sent for us. He had no one near him

except Ras Engeddah. He was standing at the entrance of his tent, leaning

gracefully on his lance. He invited us to enter the tent; and there, before us,

he dictated to his secretary, in presence of Ras Engeddah, Samuel, and our

interpreter, a letter to the Queen,—an humble, apologizing letter, which he

never intended to despatch.

In the afternoon we had the honour of another interview, in order to make

over to him the presents we had brought with us. He first asked if the gifts

came from the Queen or from Mr. Rassam himself. Having been informed

that they had been purchased in the name of the Queen, he accepted them;

remarking, at the same time, that he did so not for their value, but as a token

from a friendly Power whose renewed friendship he was so happy to

acknowledge. Amongst the presents there was a large looking-glass. Mr.

Rassam, on presenting it, told his Majesty that he had intended it for the

Queen. On that his Majesty looked rather serious; but calmly replied that he

had not been happy in his married life, and that he was on the point of

marrying another lady, to whom he would offer the splendid mirror. Soon

after our arrival, cows, sheep, honey, tej, and bread were sent in abundance,

and ourselves and followers were daily supplied with all necessaries of life

from the Imperial kitchen.

His Majesty accompanied us several stages towards the Tana Sea, Kourata

having been fixed upon as our place of residence until the arrival of our

countrymen from Magdala. On the first day's march we were left behind, on

account of our luggage, and had a good opportunity of experiencing what it

is to travel with an Abyssinian army. The fighting men were in front with

the king, but the camp-followers (numbering on that occasion about

250,000), encumbered as they were with the tents and provisions of the

soldiers, came more slowly behind. It is almost impossible to describe the

crush and confusion that frequently took place when a small river had to be

forded, or when a single footpath led along a steep, incline of almost naked

rocks. Thousands heaped together pushed, screamed, and vainly

endeavoured to penetrate the living mass, which always increased as the

mules and donkeys became more frightened, and the muddy banks of the

stream more slippery and broken. Several times, driven to despair by hours

of patient waiting, we went in search of another road, or some other ford,

where the crush and crowd might be less. It was only late in the afternoon

that we reached our encamping-ground: we had been the whole day upon a

march that the Emperor accomplished in an hour and a half.

Theodore, having heard to what inconvenience we had been put, had the

heavy luggage conveyed as before; but ourselves, with a few light articles,

were allowed the privilege of riding with him in front of the army. During

the few days he accompanied us we made but short stages, never more than

ten miles a day. Theodore travelled with us for several reasons: he wanted

to take us by a short cut by the Tana Sea, and as the country was

depopulated, he was obliged to have our luggage carried by his soldiers. He

had not as yet plundered that part of Damot; the inhabitants had fled, but the

harvest ready for the sickle remained, and at a sign from the Emperor was

reaped by thousands of hands. Whilst the greater part of his soldiers were

thus employed, and the sword was practically used as an implement of

peace, the King, with a large body of cavalry, left the camp, and shortly

afterwards the smoke that arose far and wide proclaimed their merciless

errand.

A few incidents that occurred during our short stay with Theodore deserve

to be recorded, as they will illustrate his character during his friendly

moods. On our second day's march with his Majesty, (February 1st,) the

Blue Nile was crossed not far from its source; the banks were steep and

slippery, the crush was fearful, and many a child or woman would have

been drowned or otherwise killed had not Theodore sent some of the chiefs,

who waited on him, to make steps on the slope with their spears, whilst he

remained there until the last camp-follower had passed. When we arrived

his Majesty sent us word not to dismount. We crossed the water on our

mules; but the moment we reached the opposite bank we alighted, and

climbed to the spot where his Majesty was standing. The road was so

precipitous and slippery that Mr. Rassam, who was in front, had some

difficulty in reaching the summit; Theodore; seeing his position, advanced,

took him by the hand, and said, in Arabic, "Be of good cheer, do not be

afraid."

The following day, during the march, Theodore sent Samuel backwards and

forwards with questions,—such as: "Is the American war over? How many

were killed? How many soldiers had they? Did the English fight with the

Ashantees? Did they conquer them? Is their country unhealthy? Is it like

this? Why did the King of Dahomey kill so many of his subjects? What is

his religion?" He then gave one of his excuses for not having sent for us

sooner. He had been disappointed, he said, with all the Europeans that had

entered his country. None were good but Bell and Plowden; and he wanted

to know, by report, if the Englishman who had landed at Massowah was

like all the rest. His patience was such that he had believed him to be a good

man, and had, therefore, decided upon sending for him.

On the 4th he again sent for us. He was alone, sitting in the open air. He

made us sit down on a carpet near him,—and spoke at length about his

former career. He told us how he dealt with the rebels: first he sent them

word to pay tribute; if they refused, he went himself and plundered their,

country. On the third refusal, to use his own words, "he sent their bodies to

the grave; and their souls to hell." He also told us that Bell had spoken to

him so much about our Queen, that for many years he had intended sending

her an embassy; he had even everything ready when; Captain Cameron

made him an enemy of his former friend. He had ordered, he said, some

tokens of his regard to be made for us, as he had nothing with him fit to

offer us; he had been pleased to see us, and considered us as "three

brothers." The interview was long; when at last his Majesty dismissed us,

he informed us that the following day he would send us to Kourata to await

there the arrival of our countrymen from Magdala. Shortly after reaching

our tent, Mr. Rassam received a polite note, informing him that he would

receive 5,000 dollars, which he might spend as he liked, but always in a

manner agreeable to the Lord . A verbal message was also sent to me to

inquire if I knew anything about smelting iron, casting guns, etc.: to which I

answered, in pursuance of friendly advice, that I was ignorant of everything

except my own medical profession.

CHAPTER VIII.

Leave the Emperor's Camp for Kourata—The Tana Sea—The Abyssinian

Navy—The Island of Dek—Arrival at Kourata—The Gaffat People and

former Captives join us—Charges preferred against the latter—First

Visit to the Emperor's Camp at Zagé—Flattery before Coercion.

On the 6th of February his Majesty sent us word to depart. We did not see

him, but before we left he sent us a letter informing us that as soon as the

prisoners joined us he would take steps to send us out of his country in

"honour and safety." The officer ordered to proceed to Magdala to deliver

the captives, and conduct them to us, was one of our escort; we were the

bearers of an humble apology from Theodore to our Queen: all smiled upon

us; and rejoiced beyond expression by the apparently complete success of

our mission, we retraced our steps with a light and thankful heart through

the plains of Agau Medar. On the afternoon of the 10th of February, we

encamped on the shore of the Tana Sea, a large fresh-water lake, the

reservoir of the Blue Nile. The river enters at the south-west extremity of

the lake, and issues again at its south-east extremity, the two branches being

only separated by the promontory of Zagé.

[Illustration: VILLAGE OF KANOA, IN WANDIGÉ.]

The spot we pitched our camp upon was not far from Kanoa, a pretty

village in the district of Wandigé, Kourata being almost opposite to us,

bearing N.N.E. We had to wait several days while boats were constructed

for ourselves, escort, and luggage. These boats—of the most primitive kind

of construction still in existence—are made of bulrushes, the papyrus of the

ancients. The bulrushes are tied together so as to form a flat surface some

six feet in breadth and from ten to twenty feet in length. The two

extremities are then rolled up and tied together. The passengers and

boatmen sit upon a large square bundle of bulrushes forming the essential

part of the boat, which the outward cage serves only to keep in place, and

by its pointed extremities to favour progression. To say that these boats leak

is a mistake; they are full of water, or rather, like a piece of cork, always

half submerged: their floating is simply a question of specific gravity. The

manner in which the boats are propelled adds greatly to the discomfort of

the traveller. Two men sit in front, and one behind. They use long sticks,

instead of oars, beating the water alternately to the right and left; at each

stroke they send in front and from behind jets of spray like a shower-bath,

and the unfortunate occupant of the boat, who had beforehand taken off his

shoes and stockings and well tucked up his trousers, finds that he would

have been wiser had he adopted a more simple costume still, and followed

the example of the naked boatmen.

The Abyssinian navy does not weigh heavily on the estimates, nor does it

take years to construct a fleet; two days after our arrival fifty new vessels

had been launched, and several hundreds had joined from Zagé and the Isle

of Dek.

The few days we spent on the shore of the Tana Sea were among the small

number of happy ones we have seen in this country. Samuel, now our

balderaba (introducer) and chief of the escort, did not allow the former

crowds to invade my tent. Being an intelligent man, and his relatives and

friends less numerous than those of his predecessor, he only brought to me

those he knew would benefit by a few doses of medicine, or whom he was

compelled to introduce; for by refusing the petty chiefs and important men

of the several neighbouring districts he would have made serious enemies.

It was now a recreation, instead of a fatigue; a study of the diseases of the

country; a fact almost impossible, before, when I could only defend myself

against the importunities of a crowd, and in peace not examine a single

case. The remainder of my time was spent in shooting. Aquatic birds,

ducks, geese, &c., were in abundance, and so tame that the survivors did

not move away, but remained bathing, feeding, and cleaning their bright

feathers around the dead bodies of their mates and companions.

[Illustration: View from Wandige of Lake Tana]

On the morning of the 16th we started for Dek, the largest and most

important island of the Tana Lake; it is situated about half-way from our

starting-place and Kourata. We were shower-bathed for about six hours; our

speed was about two and a half knots, so that the distance must be about

fifteen miles. Dek is a very pretty island indeed; a long, flat volcanic rock,

surrounded by conical hillocks, forming so many island pearls around a

coronet. The whole island is well wooded, covered with the most luxuriant

vegetation, dotted with numerous and prosperous villages, and proudly

boasts of four old and revered churches—the shrines of many devoted

pilgrims. We spent the night in the heart of the picturesque island—the ideal

of an earthly abode. Alas! we knew only some time afterwards that the

passage of the white men caused tears and distress among the Arcadian

inhabitants of that peaceful land. The inhabitants of the island had been

ordered to supply us with 10,000 dollars. The chiefs, almost despairing of

being able to raise so large a sum, made a powerful appeal to their friends

and neighbours; painted in true colours the wrath of the despot should he

learn that his request had not been complied with, and the wilderness that

would then replace their rich and happy isle. The eloquence of some, and

the threats of others, were equally successful. All the savings of years were

brought to the chiefs; silver rings and chains—the dower and fortune of

many a young maiden—were added to the newly spun shama of the matron:

all were reduced to poverty, and were trembling; though they smiled whilst

making the sacrifice of all their worldly goods. How they must have cursed,

in the bitterness of their grief, the poor white strangers who were the

innocent cause of all their misfortunes!

The following morning we started for Kourata, the distance and

inconvenience being about the same as on the preceding day. Once again on

terra firma , we hailed with delight the end of our short and disagreeable

passage. On the beach we were received by the clergy, who had turned out

in full canonicals to welcome us with all the pomp usually accorded only to

royalty; for such had been the Imperial command. Two of the wealthiest

merchants of the place claimed us as their guests, in the name of their royal

master, and, mounted on beautiful mules, we ascended the hill on which

Kourata is built; the privilege of riding through the sacred streets having

been conferred on, the honoured guests of the sovereign of the land.

Kourata is, after Gondar, the most important and wealthy city of Abyssinia;

it is a town of priests and merchants, built on the sides of a conical hill and

bathed by the waters of the Tana Sea. The houses, many of them built of

stone, are superior to any we saw in Abyssinia. The church erected by the

Queen of Socinius is held in such sanctity that the whole town is considered

sacred, and none but the bishop or the emperor are allowed to ride through

its narrow and steep lanes. From the sea it is almost impossible to see the

town, so close and compact are the towering dark cedars and sycamores—

the just pride of the inhabitants. The whole hillock is so completely covered

with vegetation of every description, that the spot from a distance seems

more like a luxuriant waste untouched by man's hand, than the abode of

thousands, and the central mart of Western Abyssinia. For a few days we

resided in the town, where several of the best houses had been put at our

disposal; but the countless host of unmentionable insects fairly drove us

away. We obtained permission to pitch our tents on the sea beach, on a

pleasant spot only a few hundred yards from the town, where we enjoyed

the double luxury of fresh air and abundance of water.

A few days after our arrival at Kourata we were joined by the "Gaffat

people." The Emperor had written to them to come and remain with us

during our stay, as he feared that we might feel lonely and unhappy in his

country, separated from our own people. Agreeably to the instructions they

had received, on arriving at a short distance from our encampment, they

sent to inform us of their arrival, and requested permission to present

themselves before us. I was never so much taken aback as at the sight of

these Europeans wearing the Abyssinian gala dress, silk shirts of gaudy

colours, trousers of the same material, the shama thrown over the left

shoulder, many with naked feet, several without covering to their head.

They had been so long in Abyssinia that I doubt not they considered

themselves very smart; and, if we did not admire them, the natives certainly

did. They pitched their camp a little distance in rear of ours. A few days

later their wives and children arrived, and on more intimate acquaintance

we soon perceived that several amongst them were well-educated and wellinformed men—not at all despicable companions in that distant laud.

On the 12th of March our poor countrymen, so long in chains and misery, at

last arrived. We provided tents for those who had none, and they remained

in our inclosure. They all, more or less, bore traces of the many sufferings

they had endured; but Messrs. Stern and Cameron more than the others. We

endeavoured to cheer them up by the prospect of a speedy return to Europe,

and only regretted that we could not show them more kindness; as Mr.

Rassam did not think it advisable, on account of Theodore's suspicious

character, to appear to be on too intimate terms with them. They knew the

Emperor better than we did, and now and then expressed doubts as to the

favourable issue of the affair. They had heard en route that they would have

to make boats for Theodore, and were always anxious and nervous each

time a messenger arrived from the Imperial camp.

Theodore, after plundering Metcha, the fertile province at the southern

extremity of Lake Tana, destroyed the large and populous town of Zagé,

and pitched his camp on a small strip of land connecting the promontory of

Zagé with the mainland. The Emperor was very attentive; he sent us 5,000

dollars more, supplies in abundance, and put thirty milch cows at our

disposal; he also sent us lion cubs, monkeys, &c., and almost every second

day wrote civil and courteous letters to Mr. Rassam. All our interpreters, all

the messengers, even Mr. Rassam's butler, went one after the other to Zag to

be invested with "the order of the shirt." To the messenger who had brought

us down the false intelligence of Captain Cameron's release, he gave a

marguf (silk-bordered) shama, a title, and the government of a district; and

requested Mr. Rassam to love him, and cause him to be loved by our Queen,

as his stratagem had fortunately succeeded, and had induced us to come to

him. When one of our interpreters, Omar Ali, a native of Massowah, went

in his turn to be decorated, he found his Majesty sitting near the beach

making cartridges. He told him, "You see my occupation; but I am not

ashamed of it. I cannot make up my mind to let Stern and Cameron go; but,

for the sake of your masters, I will. I like them because they are always so

well behaved, hold their caps in their hand as soon as they approach my

presence, and are respectful before me, whilst Cameron used to pull his

beard about all the time."

If I mention these apparent trifles, it is to show that Theodore was still

doubtful in his mind whether he would allow any one to depart or not. As

he was still wavering, he might, perhaps, have allowed himself to be guided

by his better qualities, had not a few incidents that occurred at the time

worked upon his suspicious nature.

Theodore, always fond of showing himself as a just man before his people,

desired a kind of trial of the former captives to take place, before him and

us, and in presence of his soldiers; when, had they acknowledged that they

were wrong, and begged his Majesty's pardon, he would probably have

gone through the form of a public reconciliation, and after presenting them

with a few gifts, allowed them to depart.

Mr. Rassam, on the contrary, believed it to be advisable that his Majesty

should not see the former captives, as their sight might put him in a passion;

and as everything appeared to progress so favourably, he considered it more

prudent to do his utmost to avoid a meeting between the two.

Shortly after the arrival of the Magdala prisoners, who had been joined at

Debra Tabor by those who had been detained there on parole, his Majesty,

at Mr. Rassam's instigation, instead of calling them to him as he had

intended, sent several of his officers, his secretary, etc., to Kourata, and

requested us to have certain charges read publicly to the captives, who

would declare whether he or they were in the wrong.

All the captives, the Gaffat people, and the Abyssinian officers, being

assembled in Mr. Rassam's tent, the scribe read the charges. The first was

against Captain Cameron. Theodore began by stating that Cameron, on his

representing himself to be a messenger from the Queen, was received with

all due honour and respect, and welcomed to the best of his ability. He

accepted with humility the presents the Queen sent to him, and on Cameron

explaining that an exchange of consuls between the two countries would be

greatly to the interest of Abyssinia, Theodore, to use his own words, said, "I

was glad on hearing this, and said, very well!" He continued by stating that

he impressed upon the consul that the Turks were his enemies, and

requested him to protect the mission and presents he intended to send to the

Queen; that he gave him a friendly letter, and sent him away, but Cameron,

instead of delivering the letter, went to the Turks who hated him, and before

whom he insulted and lowered him; that on Cameron's return, he asked him,

"'Where is the answer to the friendly letter I entrusted you with? what have

you come for?' He answered: 'I do not know;' so I said to him, 'You are not

the servant of my friend the Queen, as you had represented yourself to be,'

and by the power of my creator I imprisoned him. Ask him if he can deny

this."

The second charge was against Mr. Bardel; but he had evidently got tired of

the affair, as the charges against Stern, Rosenthal, &c. are not specified;

though on former occasion he several times referred to his grievances

against them. They are included in a general charge which runs as follows:

—

"The other prisoners have abused me, I am well aware, I used to love, and

honour them. A friend ought to be a shield to his friend, and they ought to

have shielded me. Why did they not defend me? On this account I disliked

them.