Still 1 do not see that it can be grown about the roots and allow

cultivation.

I can, however, see that it would be quite a mulch in itself, as it

grows abundant on good soil, and will mat down considerably. Then let no

trees,

successful curculio preventive he has ever tried .

one further doubt, but follow one of these plans best suited to his convenience

and, like these men, have a full yield of fruit. That it may be so, is the reason I have given these short accounts of past successes.

Quinces.

Their Successful Cultivation.

—Many persons put their

quince trees, or "bushes," as more generally called, in the dryest and most

out-of-the way place they can find, then let them take care of themselves, i. e.,

they receive no cultivation at all, grass and weeds reigning supreme. But the

quince is a native of the sea shore, and although it does not need a wet soil,

yet it does require a moist but porous, else a well-drained soil and to keep up

its natural demand for a saline, or salt-loaded atmosphere of its sea-coast nativity, must not only be as well cultivated as Mr. Quinn's pear orchard above,

but must also have a supply of salt, broadcast, as far as the roots extend. To

a full-grown tree or bush three or four quarts will not be too much. The

principal points above are from Dr. Sylvester, of Lyons, N. Y., through the

;

Prairie Farmer, but

my own knowledge and observation tells me the same

things.

Shade Trees, Where to Plant.— Shade trees are usually planted too

near the house, and also too near each other, making the rooms dark and

damp, especially so if evergreens; nothing more out of place than large evergreens on the sunny sides of a house, but a few rows of them and other suitable timber groves on the north side make excellent wind-breaking protection

for house, barn, sheds for stock, etc.

It is well to have plenty of shade trees

about, but set the more open topped on the east and south, the dark evergreens

on the west and north, where none, or not enough, are yet provided.

Forest Trees, Planting In the West, a Success.

in the

—I see

it

stated

American Messenger, for January, 1885, that Messrs. Douglas «& Son,

near Ft. Scott, Kansas, finding that 600 acres they planted with forest trees

Before next April they

are a complete success, are planting 500 acres more.

will have 1,360,000 trees planted.

AQmCULTTTRAL.

—

TC7

"Remarks. Others can do it as well as they and if they do not wish to put

out as many, can put out enough to break the winds ftom their houses, bams,

sneds, etc., and soon have enough for their home use, for fence posts, fuel, etc.

And as anyone who desires to put out trees would be likely to inquire, " what

;

shall I put out ?" I will name a few kinds that have done well in the west, and

show also what may be expected to be their growth in 10 to 20 years.

Hardy Trees, Rapidity of Growth, etc.— The following varieties,

all things considered, are the best for general cultivation in the North-west:

Cottonwood, soft maple,

silver poplar, black cherry, ash-leaved maple,

H. C. Raymond, of Council Bluffs,

Iowa, states that the following named varieties, planted when one foot in

height, attained the following diameters and heights when ten years of age :

catalpa, black walnut, and white walnut.

Cottonwood,

Diameter, 9 inches.

SoftMaple

Silver Poplar

BlackCherry

Ash-leaved Maple

Catalpa

Black Walnut

Butternut

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

8

"

"

"

"

9

6 "

5>^

6

5

5

Height, 35 feet.

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

30 "

30 "

28"

27"

25 "

20 "

20 "

Hon. Suel Foster, of Muscatine, Iowa, reports the following as the growth

of the varieties named twenty years, after transplanting

Soft Maple

Diameter, 16 inches.

HardMaple

"

"

BlackCherry

14^4

11

Height, 35 feet.

"

"

"

"

20

40

"

"

The chestnut, twenty-four years from seed grew to be 10 to 16 J< inches in

diameter and 30 to 89 feet in height. The European larch, ten years, transplanted, attained a diameter of 4 to 73^ inches, and were 20 to 30 feet in

height.

The Osage orange south of the north line of Missouri, the Prairie Farmer

thinks is the quickest to give fence posts, and that they are more durable than

any other, easily cut and split when green, but very hard when dry. Grapevine posts of this timber, perfectly sound after 14 years' use, and some poles of

it of 4 to 5 inches in diameter lay the same length of

jet perfectly sound.

time under the ledge and

They think it admirably adapted for farm timber and

farm fuel all over the west and southwest, not too far north, of any other.

Tor felloes of wheels it outsets 4 to 1 the best white oak, and valuable for all

purposes that hard wood can be put to. Probably no timber is equal to the

black walnut when large enough for sawing; and the hard maple for making

one's own sugar, as they may be tapped by boring when 6 to 10 inches in

diameter. The chestnut makes splendid rails, and furnishes a salable nut, if

the children cau spare them.

to his situation and his wants.

Now let each one judge for himself according

—

:

I>R'

'!88

CHASE'S EECIPES.

Labels for Trees, Wood Very Durable. —Make nice smooth stripg;

of thin board, with a hole in one end for copper wire

then soals the strips in.

Btrong copperas water and dry them; then soak again in lime water, after

;

which, write the name upon them and attach to branches with wire, loosely.

Soaking in the two mixtures forms a gypsum, which is almost insoluble, and

therefore very durable.

Report of Horticultural, Society, of Berlin.

Remarks. The report claims that the same processes of soaking twine,

or netting would make them very durable, but as the proportions were notgiven, experiment would have to settle that, not to get the solution so strong as

—

For the wooden labels, it matters not how strong, if a

pound to a bucket of water, so much the better, but one-fourth these amounts

would be as "strong" as I should try them on netting, or twine for netting.

Zinc Labels for Marking Trees, Plants, etc. to "Write Name

with. Pencil or Ink. The Horticulturist &di,js "The best labels for trees

or plants may be made by writing with a lead pencil when moist upon slips of

zinc, and attaching with a copper wire." Although the Country Oentlemanclaims "this writing will last for years," yet I ttunk it cannot show very

plainly, and hence give the following

Ink for Zinc Labels, for Trees, Plants, etc.—Take by weight,

to rot the goods.

,

—

:

:

sal ammoniac, 1 dr.

water, 30 drs.

Directions. Rub the powders in a mortar with a little of the water at

first.

Then adding all, bottle and keep corked up to prevent the ammonia,

from escaping. Write upon the strips of zinc with a quill pen, shaking often

while writing. Some attach the zinc labels by cutting one end narrow, then

bend it around a limb. Others with copper wire. This ink makes a black

mark that will show plainly, and also be durable.

verdigris, 2 parts, say drs.

;

;

—

Fall Planting Best for Raspberries, Blackberries, Currants

G-ooseberries, Grapes, etc. The Fruit Recorder tells its readers that all

of the above-named fruit "set out in the fall, even in October, before the leaf

drops, will make double the growth and double the fruit the nest year than

—

if

planted in the spring."

I

recommend its early setting, that the fall rains

may settle the dirt nicely about the roots so they begin their growth with the

opening of spring, " even throwing out rootlets in the fall," mulching before

freezing with litter of any kind, manure, tan bark, sawdust, inverted sods, hay

or straw, over each hill and they will come out all right in the spring, and

begin to grow as soon as frost is out, scarcely a plant failing.

Remarks. There isn't a doubt about it. And it is believed by the author

that fall planting of fruit trees must be found equally advantageous, in being

And now, as we began

more likely to live and also to thrive better generally.

this department with " The Successful Farmer, What he Does Not and

he Does, Applicable to All Business Men," we will close it with

—

—

—

WhU

:

The Happy Parmer, How He Does His "Work, Equally Ap-

—

plicable to All Laborers, and to Everybody. The following

thoughts have more reference to the spirit in which work is best done, than tothe way, physically, of doing it Carlyle says

AORICULTURAL.

789

" Give us, O, give us the man who sings as his work I He will do more

in the same time he will do it better— he will persevere longer."

—

Another writer makes short work of it in the following couplet

" Whistle and hoe, sing as you go

Shorten the row by the songs that you know."

;

Another thinks it important to "push things" "in life's earnest battle,**

as well as in war ; and also shows us that those "only prevail," or come off

final victors, who " never say fail," by the following stanza ;

" Keep pushing

!

'tis wiser

than sitting aside,

And sighing and watching and waiting the tide ;

In life's earnest battle, they only prevail,

Who daily march onward and never say fail."

No matter how distasteful any particular kind of work may be, in the

up with a feeling that one has got to " Hoe his own

row," and that although there may be some other kind of work that would

beginning, if it is taken

suit better ; yet, as this is all that offers for the present, I

would if I loved it.

am going at it as I

Of such, a writer says

" Who loves his work and knows how to spare.

May live and flourish anywhere."

:

Then all I have further to say is, go at whatever you have to do with

cheerfulness, "sing, "or "whistle," as suits you best; but be cheerful, anyhow ; "push things " whenever they need pushing never allow a thought of

<' giving up the ship," and you will soon love your work, and

must " flourish"

;

—succeed— almost "anywhere," and at almost anything, because entered upon

with a "determination to conquer " be you farmer, laborer, or business man,

toy or girl, man or woman, in the nature of things you must succeed.

MECHANICAL.

L BRASS, TO CLEAN.— Nitric acid, 1 part; sulphuric acid,

(half as much) in a stone jar.

Directions.

}4, partj

— "Have ready a pail of fresh water,

and a box of sawdust. Dip into the acid (or swab on), then into the water (or

swab on), and rub with the sawdust. A brilliant color is immediate. If

things are greasy, first dip into a strong solution of potash or soda (or swab on),

to cut the grease.

It is used at the U. S.

arsenals, and considered the best ia

the world.

Ho-w to Clean Brass, Copper, Tin, etc.— The following mix-

2.

ture will be found the best thing for cleaning brass, copper, tin, stair-rods,

taps, and even windows,

and it is quite worth the trouble of making

ing, pulverized rotten stone, and soft soap, each

1

lb. ;

:

Whit-

vinegar, 1 cup, and as-

much water as makes it a thick paste; spirits of turpentine 3^ pint. DirecLet it boii fully 10 minutes, and when nearly cold, add the turpentine,

and store in wide-mouthed pickle jars of glass or stoneware. When to be

tions.

—

used, put a very

bright.

little

of it

on a rag, and rub the article until it becomes

Polish with a soft leather dipped in powdered bath-brick.

Unless

bath-brick is used, it soon tarnishes.

—

3. Brass, the Dirtiest, to Clean Very Quickly. Finely rubbed

bichromate of potassa, mixed with twice its bulk of sulphuric acid, and aa

equal quantity of water, will clean the dirtiest brass very quickly.

4. Another.— Clean brass with a paste made of oxalic acid, 1 oz. ; rotten stone, 6 oz. and enough whale oil and spirits of turpentine, in equal quan;

tities to mix.

—

5. Stained Brass, Silver, etc., to Clean.

Whiting wet with

aqua ammonia will clean stains from brass and silver, and is excellent for

polishing door knobs, of brass, or silver, faucets, fenders, rods, etc.

—

Remarks. All the foregoing are good, so take your choice of such as you

can obtain the handiest.

1.

Steam Pipes to Cover, to Prevent Loss of Heat.—Coal

ashes 4 parts (qts. or bushels, no matter what the measure), sifted through a

riddle 4 meshes to the inch ; calcined plaster (of Paris), wheat flour, and fine

dry clay, each 1 part (1 measure of each of these are used to 4 of ashes.)

—

Directions Mix ashes and fine clay together (with water), to the thickness

of thin mortar, in a mortar-trough; mix the calcined plaster and flour together

dry, and add to the ashes and clay mortar, as you want to use it; put it on the

pipes in two coats, according to the size of the pipe. For a 6-inch pipe, 1st

coat 1% inches thick, the 2d coat about >^ inch. Afterwards finish with a.

790

MECHANICAL.

hard finish, same as for a room.

hot pipe.

2.

791

About 23^ hours will be required to set, on a

Steam Pipes, Protection Efficient and Cheap.— A mechanic

reports through the Detroit Post and lYibune, a little difxerent from the above,

you will see, using hair and leaving out the flour. He says: " One hundred

lbs. of clay are mixed with water, and 100 lbs. of fine ashes added and well

kneaded, then mix with 1 lb. of hair. This mixture is well incorporated and

allowed to stand until needed to use. Just before using, 10 lbs. of ground

plaster of Paris are mixed with it.

The mixture, of course, soon sets, and

cannot be kept over 13 hours after the plaster is added."

Remarks. The clay should, no doubt, be dry, then made fine, else allow-

—

ance made for the moisture in it; and this latter make no distinction as to ashes,

whether wood or coaL I think cleanly sifted coal ashes preferable. The plaster of Paris, it will be seen too, is not calcined (dried in a hot kettle.)

If so

done, it sets quicker, which is its only advantage, and it may be an advantage,

sometimes, not to have it set too quick.

tage, but

it

The hair, I think, a decided advan-

should be thoroughly whipped.

If

good for pipes,

it

must be

equally good for boilers.

" Zincing Iron "—"Without

a Battery.—" The following " is an

method for preventing iron articles, exposed to the air.

from rust. They are to be first cleaned by placing them in open wooden

to 1 per cent. ("

to 1 per cent.," means

vessels, in water, containing

to

excellent and cheap

^

to 1 pt., or part, to 100 pts. or parts, in the

%

%

"wooden vessel" of water), of

common sulphuric acid, and allow them to remain in it until the surface

appears clean, (bright) or may be rendered so by scouring with a rag or wet

[This may be done in a revolving cylinder by machinery.] According

sand.

to the amount of acid, they may require to remain in from 6 to 24 hours.

[Then, if time is of any account, use more acid, up 5 or 6 per cent.]

Fresh

acid must be added according to the extent of use, and the

amount of liquid;

and when this is saturated with the sulphate of iron (the rust of iron from the

articles being cleaned) it must be renewed.

After removal from this bath

("wooden vessels,") the articles are rinsed in fresh water and scoured until

they acquire a clean metallic surface (become "bright," as above remarked);

and then they are to be placed in water, in which a little slacked lime has

stirred, and kept there until the next afternoon.

When thus freed

from rust, they are to be coated with a thin film of zinc, while cold, by

means of chloride (more commonly called muriate) of zinc, which is made

by fiUing three-fourths full a glazed earthen vessel with muriatic acid, then

adding zinc clippings (little pieces of zinc) until effervescence ceases.

[Effervescence is shown by the rising of bubbles; when these stop rising,

it has dissolved all the zinc it will cut, is saturated, as

chemists say, and

is then called muriate of zinc, and is the same as tinners use upon their

seams before applying solder.]

" This liquid (muriate of zinc) is now to be turned off from the undissolved zinc and preserved in glass vessels.

been

DB. CHASE'S RECIPES.

793

" For use, it is poured into a sheet zinc vessel, of suitable size

and shape

for the objects or articles to be zinced, and about l-30th part of its weight of

The articles are to be immersed

finely powdered sal ammoniac is to be added.

in this ("cold," as above mentioned), and a scum of fine bubbles forming on

their surface in from one to two minutes, indicates the completion of this part

of the operation.

The

articles

are next

dramed

so

the excess

may flow

back into the vessel. The iron articles are thus coated with a thin film of

zinc, and are to be placed on clean sheet-iron plates, heated from beneath,

until perfectly dry, and then dipped piece by piece, with tongs, or other

means, into very hot, though not glowing molten zinc, for a short time,

until they acquire the temperature of the melted zinc, into which they are

being dipped. They are then removed and beaten, or tapped lightly, to

cause any excess of zinc to fall off, while yet hot."

Nickel Plating, "Without Battery.— "To a dilute solution of the

chloride of zinc— 5 to 10 per cent.— (5 to 10 lbs. to 100 lbs. of water)- enough

sulphate of nickel is to be added to give the solution a decidedly green

color,

and it is then

to be

heated to boiling in a porcelain vessel.

The

heating makes the solution cloudy, but does not injure it. The articles to be

nickel plated are to be carefully cleaned of rust or grease, (see 1st receipt

above for cleaning brass), and then suspended in the solution from 30 to 60

minutes, the bath being kept at a boiling temperature. When the articles are

observed to be uniformly coated, they may be removed, washed in water,

in

which a little chalk is suspended, dried, and finally polished with chalk,

or other suitable material."

Remarks. This discovery

—

is

credited to a Prof. Slatba,

and

will

be

but rotten stone, as in

some of the above receipts for polishing brass may be found preferable.

Zincing is done mostly on small cast-iron articles, while this nickel-plating

found

is

valuable.

Precipitated chalk

is

very

fine,

used on a finer class of goods.

Silver Plating, "With

a Battery.—1.

Dissolve 1 oz. of pure silver

pouring the acid upon the silver until ail is

dissolved— perhaps 4 ozs. of acid to cut 1 of silver—then dissolve salt in soft

water until very strong; now pour of this salt water into the acid and silver

(like old coin) in nitric acid, by

until all the silver sinks to the bottom, scientists say, until all is " thrown

down;" then fill the jar or bottle with soft water, shake up, and let settle;

then pour off carefully, and fill again and again, for three times, snaking well

each time, or until there is no acid or taste of acid left. This, if carefully

done, without waste, gives you 1 oz. of silver in fine powder.

In a suitable jar or dish, dissolve cyanide of potassium, 6 ozs. in soft

2.

rain water, 2 qts., into which put the silver powder, which will be dissolved

therein, and this constitutes the plating solution.

In this solution the articles to be plated are to be suspended upon a

And in this solution must also be suspended a plate (generally in

sheet form) or piece of pure silver, with about as much surface as there is

surface to the articles to be plated, as it is necessary to keep the strength of

3.

silver hook.

MECHANICAL.

the solution up to this standard

—the

793

silver, therefore, that is

upon

deposited

the articles being plated, dissolved off of the "plate, sheet, or piece of pure

silver," as it is deposited upon the articles

and ready for continued use.

—the solution remaining

full strength

Of course the " battery " is connected with this

" plating solution."

—The battery used

used by telegraphers, who will

All articles to be plated must

be freed from grease with a solution of potash or soda, as in the above proThis is from a friend in Ann Arbor, whom I know to be reliable from

cesses.

over 25 years acquaintance.

Remarks.

is the same as

instruct one how to prepare and " connect " it.

Steel—To Temper Very Hard.

— " Take water, 3 measures—no mat-

—wheat

measxire, and

of common

Directions. —Mix into a paste; heat the steel to be hardened enough to coat

with the paste —by immersing

in the composition — after which heat

to a

ter what size

flour,

1

)4.

salt.

it

it

cherry red and plunge it in cold, soft water. If properly done, the steel will

come out with a beautiful white surface, and very hard."

—

Remarks. It is said this is the process by which Stubbs' flies are tempered,

which are recommended below, for drilling glass.

Steel and Iron Machinery—To Keep From Rusting.—

1.

Powdered camphor gum, % oz. lard, 1 lb. a little black lead.

Directions. Dissolve the gum in the lard by heat; remove the scum, stir

Rub this over cleaned steel or

in just black lead enough to give an iron shade.

iron machinery of any kind, and leave on 24 hours; then rub with a soft linen

cloth, and it is safe from rust for a long time.

;

;

—

Iron or Steel Varnish— To Prevent Rust.

ozs. or lbs.);

—Rosin, 120 parts

(drs.,

gum sandarach, 180; gum lac (shellac), 60; spirits of turpentine,

120; and alcohol, 180 parts.

Directions.

— Pulverize the three

first

articles

and melt together; and

gradually (and carefully, to avoid taking fire), add the turpentine, continuing

the

heat

until all are again dissolved

(if

they harden) in the turpentine;

then add the alcohol, and filter through a fine cloth (muslin) or thick filtering

paper, bottle and cork for use.

Manufacturer and Builder.

—

Remarks. The straining or filtering indicates its intention for fine articles;

without it, it would do for outside railings, or ornamentation; and if desired black,

for iron balustrades, fence, etc., add a little fine lamp-black, which will adapt

See also Black Paint. How to Make

it to such work, and look very nicely.

for Iron Work.

Upon—

To Remove.— Cover the steel for a couple

Steel— Rust

3.

of days with sweet oil; then with finely powdered unslacked lime (known aa

"quick" lime), rub the steel until all the rust is removed; re-oil to prevent

further rust.

2.

Indian Domestic Economy.

Another plan, is, to place the rusty article in a bowl of kerosene,

else to wrap the steel in a cloth well wet

with kerosene, and let it remain 24

hours, or more; then scour the rusty spots with brick dust.

"

LR. CEASE'S RECIPES.

794

—

Remarks. If lirick-dust is used, bath or bristol brick would be best, T)ut

the powdered unslacked lime would be better than either, as it has an active

power in itself of removing rust, and if time cannot be given, this powdered

and the sweet oil or the kerosene, will remove it in a few

minutes, by thorough rubbing; so will it with ammonia. Always apply oil, or

some of the oily mixtures, at the last, to prevent thje rust from deeper penetraquick-lime,

tion.

4.

Steel Dinner Knives, Rust to Remove.— Cover the steel

with sweet oil, well rubbed in; let them remain 48 hours, and then using unslacked lime, finely powdered, rub the knife till all the rust has disappeared.

Remarks.— I should not like to go without my meals while this process

was going on hence I should let them lie over night only, and risk the job at

;

that.

6.

Steel

Their Polish,

Apparatus, and Fine Instruments, to Preserve

by Preventing Rust— Prof. Olmsford, of Yale Col-

"This is done effectually, by melting slowly together, lard, 6 or 8

and rosin, 1 oz. and stirring till cool. It can be wiped off nearly clean, if

lege, says :

oz.,

;

desired as in a case of knife blades, or it can be thinned with coal

oil,

or ben-

The surface should be bright and dry, when applied, as it does not pre-

zine.

vent oxidation (rusting) already commenced.

Remarks. If any spots of rust, remove first with the sweet oil and piece of

quick lime, as below. And remember there must be no salt in the lard.

—

6.

Steel, or Iron Buckles,

piece of unslacked lime, free from

Jewelry, etc., to Clean.—