TRemarks,

—Carpenters who are engaged in repairing old buildings some-

times carry a small lump of tallow for the purpose on one of their boots or

shoes.

Calcimining.— Take four lbs. of Paris white, put it in a pail, cover it

Put into a kettle 4 oz. of glue,

and cover it also with cold water. In the morning set the glue on the stove,

and add enough, warm water to make 1 qt.;stir it until dissolved. Add the

glue to the Paris white, and pour in warm water till the pail is three-quarters

Then add bluing, a little at a time, stirring it well until the mixture is

full.

Use a good brush, and go over one spot on the wall till it is

slightly bluish.

thoroughly wet. If your brush dries quickly, add more warm water, as the

mixture is too thick. The brush must be kept wet. This mixture costs thirty•with cold water and let it stand over night.

eight cents.

Seientijw American.

Serving Machine

Oil,

to Make, and How to

best paraffine oil, and the best sperm oil, equal parts.

Use.— Take the

Mix.

To Use. — Clean off the old oil with benzine, or kerosene, then apply. This

I obtained from a sewing-machine agent who said he had manufactured and

Machines

sold much of this oil, having been in the business over 14 years.

fibould be cleaned and re-oiled as often as they become the least gummy.

BEE-KEEPING.

fin order that I might give the people the benefits of experience in Bee-Keeping, I engaged

Dr. A. B. Mason, one of the most successful bee-growers in the country, to write this

chapter for this work.]

Motto

t

Keep all colonies strongr, and don't pat off till to-morrow what should be done to-day.

In order that those interested in the science of Bee-keeping, who may read

the following on the subject, may understand the meaning of the terms I shall

use, I will say that the home or receptacle for the bees is called a "hive," not

a

"skip," "skep stand," or "gum," etc., and the bees when in a hive make a "col-

ony, " not a

swarm, " and when part of a colony leaves a hive by what is known

as swarming, it is a swarm, but the moment it is put in a hive it is a colony.

'

'

The suggestions that follow are not intended for those largely engaged in

bee-keeping, or those who understand the subject, but for those

who wish to

keep only enough colonies to furnish their tables with pure, healthful [and

most delicious sweet honey.

Any one wishing to be informed in regard to the natural history of the

honey-bee, and for more elaborate instructions in regard to Bee-Keeping, should

procure some standard work on the subject, such as "Langstroth on the HoneyBee," which is a thoroughly scientific work; or, "Cook's Manual of the

Apiary," or, " Quinby's Mysteries of Bee-Keeping," both of which are thoroughly practical, and up with the times.

Any good supply dealers can furnish any of the articles used in Bee-keeping. All references and directions are given for those of the Langstroth hive.

HOW TO COMMENCE BEE-KEEPING.

The first thing to procure, if such is not already on hand, will be one or

more colonies of bees, which, in its natural condition, during the honey season,

will be composed of a fertile queen (the only perfect female in the colony), more

or less drones (or males), and from 20,000 to 40,000 workers. Some speak of a

" king-bee " also, but there is no king in a colony of bees.

WHAT HIVE TO USB.

claimed by many that the hive known as the Langstroth is the one

After having used different styles, for several years I adopted the

Langstroth, and would rather pay for such than use any other, if furnished me

for nothing.

Whatever style may be adopted, let it by all means be one with

It is

most in use.

movable frames, and have but one sized frame in the apiary.

In using the Langstroth hive, many prefer having it so narrow that it will

hold but eight frames, claiming that number of frames is enough to raise the

803

I>R-

804

CHASE'S RECIPES.

necessary amount of brood, and obliging the bees to put the surplus honey ia

the sections or upper stories.

When referring to the Langstroth hive, reference is usually had to the size

of frame, as it is immaterial what the external appearance of the hive may be,

that being left to the taste or fancy of the bee-keeper.

Before commencing any operation with bees, it will generally be better to

be provided with a bee-vail and a smoker, and if you don't want to be stung at

The vail can be bought ready made for about

S,ll, get a pair of rubber gloves.

Brussel's net is much better but

or it can be made from bobinett.

more expensive. Get IJ^ yds., that is about f of a yard wide.

Sew the endstogether and hem one edge, and put a rubber cord in the hem of such length as

will hold the vail close around the crown of the hat you wear, or use a hat as a

bee-hat, and sew the vail, without the cord or hemming, to the edge of the rim.

A smoker may be had for from 50 cents to |2.00, in which rotton wood or cotThe rubber gloves will cost from $1.75 to $2.00.

ton rags may be burned.

fifty cents,

HOW TO PROCURE THE FIRST COLONIES, ETC.

If not already supplied with bees, it will be best to get them as near home

as possible.

Italians are undoubtedly the best, and our

motto demands that only strong

colonies be purchased, and if purchased in the fall not more than two-thirds as

much should be paid for them as they would be worth in the spring.

Prepare a place on the ground for the hives, and if it is where the hens will

not scratch, remove the grass and cover so thickly with sawdust where the hives,

are to set, and for several inches beyond on all sides, that neither grass nor

weeds will grow through it. Place the hives six or more feet apart each way,

and have them face south or east. The reason for placing them so far apart

Put a stick two inches square and

will be given under the head of swarming.

as long as the hive is wide under the front end of the hive, and a like piece,

under the back end.

If the bees are not in the kind of hive that it is intended to be used, they may

be readily transferred in either of the following ways.

TRANSFERRING.

The best time for this method is early in the season, when there is but little

honey and brood in the hive, and always on a warm day, if possible, when the

bees are busily engaged in gathering honey.

When fruit trees are in bloom is

as good a time as any, although I have transferred in October with splendid

success, but don't attempt it late in the season unless you understand the

business.

Before commencing this operation, as many hives should be provided as

Get everything ready that may be needed.

box hive, the following will be needed: A hand-saw, a

there are colonies to be transferred.

If the colony is in a

hammer, a chisel to cut nails, a sharp, thin knife (a pointed shoe or case knife

BEE-KEEPINO.

805

is good), a board a few inches larger each way than the

frame to be used, with

with one or more thicknesses of flannel, a wing or a small

brush broom, a small box without a top, a dish of water and a towel. lu addition to these, something will be needed to hold the combs in place when fitted

in the frames. The best things for this purpose can readily be made. Get

some wire, about No. 14 is best, cut into pieces 11^ inches long for the Langof an inch

stroth frame.

At J^ inch from one end bend to a right angle, at

from this angle bend the same way as the first to a right angle. At 9i^ inches

from this second angle bend the same way to a right angle. The first two bends

form a hook that is to be placed over the top bar of the frame, and the last bend

makes an end that is to be pushed under the bottom of the frame after it is filled

•one side covered

^

Prepare 6 or more lor each frame that is to be filled.

is to be used in some

"building or room wliere the bees can not enter.

Now go to the hive to be trans-

with comb.

If

the bees are at all disposed to rob, place what

ferred fi'om and blow a little smoke in at the entrance. The object in smoking

the bees is to frighten them, when they will fill themselves with honey, which

puts them in the same condition a cross, hungry person is after a good dinner

good natured. It is said that a bee full of honey will not sting unless pinched

in some way. Then move the hive to one side and set the new one without the

frames in its place, and carry the old hive, bees and all, to where you have placed

the things you are to use in transferring, and turn it bottom side up if it is a box

Live.

Place one edge of the small box, before spoken of, on one edge of the

now turned-over hive. Either prop or hold up the opposite edge of the box and

drum lightly on the hive with the hammer or a small stick, and you will soon

see the bees going up into the box. In this way drive out all the be^s thnt

•wiU readily leave, keeping them subdued with smoke. "When all or nearly all

the bees are in the box, empty them out on the ground or sawdust in front of

the new hive. Now run the saw down one or two sides of the hive on the

inside, cutting the combs and cross, sticks loose from the sides, choosing the

Then,

sides from which the flat sides of the comb can be most readily got at.

with the chisel, cut off the nails and remove the two sides of the hive. Remove

one or more of the combs, or as much as will fill one of the frames and lay on

the cloth that has been fastened to the board as already directed. The cloth

Place

lard would do.

prevents injuring the sealed brood as the uncovered

one of the frames on this comb in such a way as to save as much of the brood

1 »

as possible, and with a sharp, thin knife cut the comb to the size of the inside

of the frame so it will fit snugly.

Put on as many of the previously prepared

Then raise the board, comb and

frame up edgewise, and turn the frame and its contents and lay the wire side

down on the cloth and put wires on the now upper side, and it is ready to place

Proceed in the same manner till all the

in the new hive where the bees are.

worker comb has been transferred, rejecting all drone comb, if there are other

bees within two or three miles, and let your less careful neighbors raise the

wires as may be needed for the upper side.

Brush the remaining bees, if any, down in front of the new hive.

The honey from the remaining pieces of comb can be extracted or fed back

4o the bees gnrt the comb made into w^x.

drones.

:

DR. CEASE'S RECIPES.

806

GIVE FRAMES, OR STARTERS OP POUITDATION.

If there is not enough suitable comb to fill all the frames, it will be best to

empty ones with comb foundation.

Cut the foundation so as it will

reach within one-eighth of an inch of the ends of the frame and about threefill the

«ightlis of an inch narrower than the inside of the frame.

«o

If you cannot afford

much foundation, put a strip of any width (called starters) from half an

inch to wider along the center of the under side of the top bar of the frames,

«o as to give the bees a guide by which to build their combs straight in the

frames, and to make sure that they will be straight, place each frame with

these guide pieces in them, between frames of comb if possible, but

separate the combs that have brood in

do not

them till settled warm weather, or the

brood may get chilled.

As soon as the bees have fastened the combs securely in the frames, which.

\idll be in from one to three days, the wires should be removed.

Another method of transferring is called the Heddon plan, in wMcli the

combs are not transferred, and is as follows

Prepare a hive and have the frames filled with comb, if possible; if not,

put in full sheets of foundation, or strips, as already directed, and place it

where the one stands that is to be trans^^'^rred.

If one or more combs of brood can be procured from some other hive and

If

put in this the bees will be more apt to be contented with their new home.

neither combs or foundation can be had, proceed as directed under the heading

"How to get straight combs."

This method of transferring should not be attempted except in warm

weather and when there is a good flow of honey. About swarming time is the

best.

Now drive out nearly all of the bees, as before directed, making sure tliat

down in front of the new

Then place the old hive a few feet back of its old

location with entrance in the opposite direction from what it was before.

After

two or three days, move th6 old hive a few inches towards its old location and

the queen is driven out with them, and empty them

hive, and see that all enter.

former direction, and so continue to

do every day or two till it stands by the side of the new hive with the entrance

the same way, which should be accomplished in at least three weeks from the

time the transfer was made.

In twenty-one days from the time of the transfer all the young bees will be

hatched in the old hive, when all the bees should be driven from it and united

with the colony in the new hive, first destroying the queen that is with the bees

just driven out.

The old hive may now be taken apart, the honey be extracted

from the combs, and then melt them into wax.

If the surplus arrangements

have not been added to the new hive it may now be done.

This method of

transferring saves much work and perhaps many stings.

The future methods of procedure will depend on what kind of honey it is

intended to secure, comb or extracted, not strained, as some call it.

also turn the entrance a little towards its

BEE-KEEPING.

807

COMB HONEY.

generally be best for those keeping but a few colonies to buy the

It will

I would advise the use of

more than 2 pounds, one lb. is better and not over \%

The comb is more apt to be built straight in the narrow sections

hives already prepared with the needed fixtures.

sections holding not

inches wide.

than in the wider ones.

Fill each section with a very thin comb foundation, fastening it firmly at the

top, letting it come within i^ of an inch of each end and J^ of an inch of the

bottom of the section. If it is not desirable to use so much foundation, cut it

into triangular pieces, long enough up and down to reach within J-l' of an inch

of the bottom of the section. If foundation is not used, it will hasten and aid

the bees in starting in the sections to procure some nice white pieces of comb

and cut and use as directed for foimdation.

Be sure and have everything in readiness for immediate use, for a few

days after makes the difference between a good supply of honey and none at

all.

If the colony is strong, (and none other should be kept), and it is gathering

honey, the sections may be put on as soon as the wires are removed from the

transferred combs. The honey secured from fruit bloom is dark colored and

usually bitter, and may be extracted and kept to be fed back to the bees if at

any time they should need feeding, or it can be used in making honey vinegar.

"When the sections are nearly filled with honey, and the bees are still gathering,

they should be raised up and another tier prepared like the first placed under

The bees will usually commence at once to work in the new

it on the hive.

and also finish the old ones. As soon as the old ones are finished they should

be removed, for the longer they are left on the hive the darker they will become, for the bees do not always have clean feet. When the second tier of

sections is nearly finished, remove the under tier, and should the honey flow

continue, they should be raised and another tier put under as at first, and the

After being removed

operation should be repeated as often as necessary.

from the hive, comb honey should be kept in a warm dry room, never in a eel

lar, unless

warm and dry, and never allowed to freeze.

EXTRACTED HOITEY.

In addition to the appliances already on hand as before spoken of, a honey

if extracted honey is to be secured.

extractor and a honey knife will be needed

An extractor can be had from $6 to $25, the price depending upon the size and

style,

A good one can be bought for from $8 to $14, and a knife for from 50

cents to $1.50.

Procure a hive the same as for comb honey, but in place of the sections,

etc. , get one or more extra stories with frames, to put on the lower hive.

Some

of the most successful producers of extracted honey use upper stories only 6

inches deep. Fill the frames with foundation, or put in starters, as directed

tinder transferring.

If the colony is strong

and gathering honey rapidly, the

808

DR. CHASE'S RECIPES.

second, story may be put on as soon as the wires are

ferred combs, otherwise not

removed from the trans-

a surplus is being gathered. If the colony is

not strong enougli to occupy the whole of the second story, 2 or 3 frames and

a division board may be put in and the remainder of the lower story be kept

covered so as to retain the heat of the bees. When the second story is nearly

filled with honey it may be extracted, or it may be raised up and anoth^ir prepared as before directed, be put under it, and so continue to do till the honey

season closes and the extracting can all be done at once. But the better plan is

to do the extracting as soon as the honey flow from each kind of flowers ceases,

for the mixing of difierent kinds of honey destroys their distinctive flavors.

The better way is to extract the yield from fruit bloom as soon as white clover

begins to yield honey, and then again after white clover and before basswood,

and after basswood and before the yield of dark honey from fall flowers. As

different localities often yield different kinds of honey, each one must judge f oi

himself when to extract.

till

Another method is to have hives of only one story in which the bees raisfa

brood, this is called the brood nest If honey is coming in rapidly it may be

be necessary to extract 2 or 3 times a week, so as to give the queen room to

If this is neglected the cells will be filled with honey and brood

rearing will necessarily have to cease, and as the amount of honey gathered

depends upon the number of bees, it is desirable to raise as many as possible,

that is, keep all colonies strong.

When ready to extract, blow a little smoke in at the entrance of the hive.

If the honey is to be extracted from the brood nest movs the hive just back of

where it now stands and place an empty one, without any covering, in its place.

Remove the cover and quilt off the hive to be extracted from, and if the bees

are cross smoke them enough to make them quiet.

Have ready another empty

hive or comb holder in which to place the combs to be extracted. Remove one

of the combs and shake the adhering bees into the empty hive on the old stand.

Such bees as have not been shaken off should be brushed off with a wing or

brush.

Then place this comb in the empty hive or comb holder. Proceed in

like manner with the remaining combs.

If any of them do not need extracting

place them in the hive where the bees have been shaken. Take the combs to

the honey extractor and with the uncapping knife remove the cappings from as

deposit eggs.

many of the combs as the comb basket will contain.

Then by revolving the

comb basket the honey will be thrown out of one side of the combs, which

should then be reversed and the honey thrown, or extracted, from the other

side.

Proceed in this manner till all have been extracted, when the combs

should be placed in the hive where the bees are and the hive closed up. Proceed in like manner with all the colonies that need extracting. If the combs

contain unsealed brood be careful not to revolve them so rapidly as to throw it

A little practice will soon enable one to do it properly. Should there be

upper stories to extract from, and not from the brood nest, the hive need not

be moved, and the bees may be shaken on the ground in front of the hive.

out.

BEE-KEEPING.

809

SWARMING.

Swarming is the natural method of obtaining increase, and usually occors

during the latter part of May or in June when the colony has become populous

and the bees are actively engaged in breeding and gathering honey. Usually

about 10 o'clock, or between 10 and 2, on a bright, warm day, the greater portion of the workers not engaged in gathering stores, having their honey sacks

filled with honey, rush from the hive as though a ghost were after them.

After

flying about for a short time, the swarm usually lights on some convenient tree

or bush. During an experience of twenty years I have known but one swarm

to leave for parts unknown without first lighting.

To prevent constant watching and anxiety in swarming time, I clip off twothirds or more of one of the wings of the queen as soon as she commences to

deposit eggs.

A

swarm will not " run away " unless a queen accompanies it, and she can

not go if one of her wings is nearly gone. Be sure and remove enough of the

Mdng, or the queen will still be able to fly, although it will be apt to be quite

slowly, if too little has been taken off.

swarm may light without a queen being with it, the same as if the queen

accompanied it, but it will flnally return to its old home.

If two or more swarms issue at the same time they are very apt to light

When they miss their queens and return they

together, if they light at all.

A

are pretty sure to divide up and go to their own hives.

I have previously given directions for placing the hives at least 6 feet apart,

and on or near the ground. The reason of this can now be readily seen. If a

swarm issues when no one sees it the queen will not be likely to crawl 6 feet

and enter the wrong hive and be killed, and the hive being on the ground, she

can crawl back and enter her own hive. It will not do to let them swarm and

go back many times, or they may become disgusted with their queen and

destroy her, and while the swarming fever lasts it interferes materially with

honey gathering and brood rearing.

HiVJJTG A SWARM.

If the queen's wing has not been clipped, a good way to proceed is to place

the hive where it is to stand permanently.

tion, or with starters in

Have the frames filled with founda-

them as before directed.

If there is a supply of extra

combs use them in place of foundation.

As soon as the swarm issues take one or more combs from the hive the

swarm has come from, at least one of the combs to have young brood in (but

he sure there is no queen cell on either of them) and place in the center of the

hive prepared for the swarm.

Place the frames left in the old hive in the center

and fill the empty places thus made with frames that have been prepared for

the new hive. Have ready a box or basket that will hold 6 or 8 quarts, without

lop and as soon as the swarm has lighted shake or orush the bees into it, and

fis soon as the bees have settled on it carry them to the hive prepared for th^na

J

^0

^

DR. CHASE'S RECIPES.

and gradually shake or brush out a few at the entrance of the hive, and as soon

may be poured out in front of the

hive.

All should be made to enter, so as to be sure that the queen is in, or they

might swarm'out. The hive should also be shaded during the hottest part of the

day; and it would be better if every hive could be shaded in the same way duras Kaej begin to enter, the remaining bees

ing wann weather.

MY METHOD.

I clip a wing of every one of my queens, and when a swarm issues proceed as follows

As soon as a swarm is seen coming out, go with a queen cage

or glass tumbler to the hive and watch for the queen, which, being clipped,

:

will soon be seen crawling on the ground, making vain attempts to fly.

Place

Be careful in going to the hive that you do not

hnr in the cage or tumbler.

Step on her.

As soon as the swarm is all out move the hive it has just left two or more

reds away, and put a new hive, prepared as before directed, in its place. As

before stated, the swarm will usually return without lighting, and as soon as

tbey begin to enter let the queen loose at the entrance, and be sure she enters

the hive.

If the swarm should light the same as if the

queen were with it, it

am be hived as already directed, letting the queen run in with the first that

erater.

As soon as the other bees have all entered move the hive to where it is to

remain and place the old one in its former location and the work is donCo

Sometimes the swarm while circling around in the air finds the old hive, even

^??hen moved some distance away, and will enter unless prevented by again

rioving it, or covering it up.

Hives in which swarms are to be put should be kept in the shade for if

sun they will sometimes become so warm that the newly hived

swarms will not stay in them.

left in the

AFTER SWARMS.

If it is not desirable to have more than one

may be prevented in either of the following ways

swarm from each colony, it

:

If extra queens are in readiness all the queen cells should be destroyed as

This will

soon as the colony has swarmed and a new queen be given to it.

save the old colony from being without a laying queen for over two weeks.

Care must be taken to remove every queen cell before attempting to introduce

the queen.

Another method is to remove all the queen cells but one as soon as the colony has swarmed, and at the farthest not later than six or seven days after the

swarm has issued. If all the queen cells but one are destroyed as soon as the

swarm has issued other cells will sometimes be started, so it will be better to

wait, or examine again for queen cells in three or four days.