ake

grit,

then rub them with it, and finish with chamois or buckskin.

mental jewelry, see next below.

oil,

1.

g

or hard specks, and touch it to sweet

For orna-

Jewelry, Ornaments, Gold Chains, etc., to Clean.

— Wash

in soap suds; rinse in dilute alcohol (half water, half alcohol), and lay in a box

of dry sawdust to dry; then rubbing with the sawdust, is a nice way to clean

such goods.

2. Gilded Washed, or Plated Jewelry, to Clean.—Henry M.

M. Morrison, of Wis., says " The work of cleansing gilt articles is a delicate

task, but they may be cleaned by rubbing them very gently with a soft sponge

:

or brush, dipped in a solution of borax, J^ oz., to water, 1 lb., (a pt. is a lb.

the world around) then rinsing in pure water and drying with a soft linen

;

tag."

3.

Another. — To clean gilt jewelry, put cyanide of potassium, 1 oz. to

% pt., and when cold, add aqua ammonia, 3^ oz., and alcohol, 1

boiling water

oz., brush gently the articles with this compound.

Rinse and dry with a cloth,

chamois, buckskin, or sawdust as in No. 1, above.

^mar^s.— Cyanide of potash is poison, so don't let children drink it nor

get it into a sore spot in using it.

Silverware, to Keep it's Original Luster.

—The proprietor

of one of the oldest silverware houses in Philadelphia says:

" Housekeepers

4.

MECHANICAL.

795

ruin their silverware by -washing it in soapsuds, which destroys the original

luster, and makes it look like pewter.

When it needs polishing, he says: take

a piece of soft leather (chamois) and whiting and rub hard.

Remarks.— When, of course, never use soap in cleaning it, but take the

following

Silverware, to Wash.— "Put aqua ammonia, 1 tea-spoonful to

5.

very hot water, 1 pt., and wash quickly with a small soft brush, kept for the

purpose only, and dry with a clean linen towel

mois.

;

then rub very dry with cha-

Washed in this manner silverware becomes again brilliant, and requires

no polishing with any of the powders, or whiting usually employed, and lasts

much longer,

-Remark.—Nothing could be more

sensible, still the following is also

sensible

6. Silverware, Knives and Forks, Tin, etc., to Brighten after

Cleaning, Put the finishing touch to them by rubbing with old, dry news-

—

paper.

still

It is a fine polisher.

Some of these receipts are quite domestic, but

they are equally mechanical.

Silvering Powder. — Chloride of silver, 1 dr,; potassa alum, 2 drs.;

common salt and cream of tartar, each, 1 oz.

Directions.

—

First dip the article to be silvered into a strong solution of

then rub with the powder wash and dry with a soft cloth, and

polish with any of the above plans.

Remarks. Druggists in small places may say there is no " potassa alum,"

salt in water ,

;

—

but there is, and also " ammonia alum."

Zinc, to Clean —Take sulphuric acid, 1 oz,; water, 2 ozs.

Directions. Wash quickly with the mixture, rinse immediately with

warm water, wipe dry with a cloth, and polish with whiting, brightens it

nearly equal to new.

—

Soldering German Silver.— To solder German silver, pour out some

and put a piece of zinc in it. Then scrape

spirits of salt into an earthen dish,

the parts clean that are to be soldered, and paint over with the spirits of salt.

Next put a piece of pewter solder on the joint and apply the blow-pipe to it.

Melt five parts of German silver and four parts of zinc into thin cakes, then

powder it for solder. Rural New Yorker.

Remarks. The phrase, "spirits of salt," is the old name for muriatic acid,

as now called and all the zinc should be put in that the acid will dissolve ;

then it is called " muriate of zinc," which is what is to be put on. Where he

says, " Then scrape the parts clean that are to be soldered, and paint over with

—

;

the spirits of salt."

This "muriate of zinc"

is

the proper "flux," or solution

See Soldering Cast Iron, next below, calling for the "muriatic acid."

It should be kept corked and away from children, as it is

poisonous eats or destroys clothing, as well as flesh, hence apply with a swab.

for all soldering.

—

A paper called the Engineer says that

2. Soldering Cast Iron.

Soldering cast iron is generally considered to be very diflficult, but it is only

DR. CEASE'S RECIPES.

796

a question of thoroughly making bright the surface to be soldered, and using

good solder and a clean swab, with muriatic acid.

Remarks. The muriate of zinc is the article to use in this, as in all other

—

solderings.

—

Q-lass Globes, to Clean. If the globes are much stained by smoke,

soak them in tolerably hot water with a little washing soda dissolved ii it, then

put a tea-spoonful of powdered carbonate of ammonia into a pan of lukewarm

water, and with a tolerably hard brush wash the globes till the smoke stain

disappears

;

rinse in clean, cold water, and

let

them drain

till

dry.

They

will be quite white and clear.

—

Aqua ammonia, which is more likely to be in the house, will

Reynarks.

do as well, but a tea-spoonful of either is not enough for a " pan of water,''

but only for a pint of water or one quart at most.

—

1.

"WTiite Paint, to Clean. Take a small quantity of fine whiting

on a damp piece of flannel rub gently over the soiled surface and the effect

;

will almost equal the original purity.

Remarks.— See the next receipt for washing off, if needed.

—

2. Oil-Painted Surfaces, to Clean. Take a piece of soft flannel,

put it in warm water, and squeeze it till it feels dry next dip gently on to some

very finely pulverized French chalk, and rub the painted surface with the flan;

nel ; the effect will be the removal of all dust, greasy matter,

and

dirt

;

the

surface is next washed with a clean sponge and water, and dried with a piece

This method does not injure the paint like soap, and produces a very good result.

Remarks Wash-leather is split sheepskin, prepared as chamois, and used

for the same purposes, very properly, too, because much cheaper.

of wash-leather.

—

Tracing Paper, to Make.— To wet common drawing paper, or any

other kind, with benzine, it becomes transparent immediately, and can be

placed over a drawing, or picture, to be transferred, by tracing with a pencil,

ink, or water-colors, which will not spread nor run upon its surface. This is

condensed from the Engineering and Mining Journal, and may be relied upon.

If the work is not completed before the paper loses its transparency by evaporation of the benzine, you can dampen that part again, to complete it.

This

is a new discovery, and valuable.

—

Glass, to Break as You Like. File a little notch in the edge,

you wish to break from then put a suitably shaped red-hot iron

upon the notch, and draw, slowly, in the direction you wish. A crack will

follow the iron, caused by the heat, if not drawn too fast.

2. Glass, to Drill. To drill glass, use a file drill, and keep it wet

with a mixture of camphene and spirits of turpentine. Heretofore turpentine

has been used alone. The camphene helps to give the drill a better bite.—

1.

at the point

;

—

Scientific American.

Remarks.

—

It is claimed that a

Stubb's triangular, or 3-square file, ground

to a proper shape, makes the best drill for glass, and

some have claimed that

MECHANIGAL.

797

•water on!y or turpentine, do equally well to

keep the glass wet with. Again

turpentine with garlic juice in it, is claimed to be the best. The file must be

ground so that the edge is sharp, and the width that the hole is to be. The file

perhaps, had best not be heated, as the temper can seldom be made equal to

that of the maker, (if Stubbs tempers his files as given on page 793, why

can not any good blacksmith do it ?) but if heated, while hot shape it to suit,

then re-temper as Stubbs is said to do ? A man in Jackson, Mich. claimed, in

writing to the Scientific American, that he had drilled 4 holes through }^ inch

plate glass in 15 minutes, and that water was equally as good as turpentine

to keep wet with.

,

Furniture, Black Walnut Stain.— Take 1 pt. of very thin glue.

between the thumb and fingers. Put

Into it 1 tea-spoonful of raw umber, stir it well, and put on warm with a sponge or

brush.

When dry, brush off and varnish, or,

2. Take 1 tea-spoonful of Venetian red and "% tea-spoonful of lampblack,

mix into a paste and then dilute with 1 pt of glue- water, as before. Journal of

1.

Its adhesiveness being just perceptible

Chemistry.

3. Ebony, or Blaok Stain Upon Pine, or Other Soft Woods.—

Make a strong decoction of logwood by boiling, and apply boiling hot, 3 or 4

times according to the shade desired, allowing it to dry between applications

This is made by putting iron filings

These penetrate the wood deeply, and are very black, or

then apply a solution of acetate of iron.

into good vinegar.

less deep, according to the number of applications.

—

%

Polish, Fine For Furniture. Linseed oil, and old ale, each

beaten; alcohol, and muriatic acid, each 1 oz., mix.

DrRECTiONS. Dust the furniture, shake the polish, and apply with a wad

of batting or cotton flannel, and finish with an old silk handkerchief.

Remarks. This, and any of the others, will keep any length of time, if

4.

pt.; the white of 1 egg,

—

—

corked.

5. Polish to Brighten Old Furniture, Pianos, etc.—Dissolve

orange shade, gum shellac, 4 oz. in 95 per cent, alcohol, 1 qt. then add linseed

oil, 1 qt. ; spirits of turpentine, 1 pt. shake and also add sulphuric ether, and

;

;

aqua ammonia, each 4 oz.

Good Cheer.

pears.

Shake well when used, rubbing until a pohsh ap-

—

6. Polish, Simple. Equal parts of spirits of turpentine, linseed oil,

and good vinegar, mixed, and rubbed on with flannel, until poUshed, is excellent.

Some persons prefer sweet-oil instead of the linseed.—i/tfore'a Rural

ITew Yorker.

Remarks.

—For the sweet-oil plan, see the next receipt.

—

Polish, Excellent and G-ood. To make a good polish for furniture, take alcohol, good vinegar and sweet-oil, equal parts of each, or a little

more of the last. Shake the bottle well, daily, for three weeks, when it is fit

for use. but the longer it stands, the better it is. The furniture must be rubbed

Apply every 3 or 3 months; and rub the furniture with

till the poUsh is dry.

7.

LJL CHASE'S RECIPES.

•798

a dry cloth every time it is diisted.

For dining-room tables and sideboards,

use the polish every week, as it maljes them beautifully bright.

Remarks.

oil,

— White-wine vinegar, when can be got, considered the best

—Raw linseed (raw, which unboiled

is

it

Polish for Pianos, etc.

8.

oil

is

the kind intended in all, except the last one given), 1 qt.

tine,

;

spirits of turpen-

% pt. alcohol, benzine, and aqua ammonia, each, 4 oz.

;

Shake when

applied, and rub well.

—

Polish, Cheap and Good. Gum shellac and rosin, each 2 oz.;

mix and let stand 24 hours, or until dissolved, shaking occasionally; then add spi. "ts of turpentine, 3 pts. boiled linseed oil, 2 qts. ;red

Shake well when used. Apply with

analine, 15 grs. oil of citronella,

oz.

9.

alcohol,

1 pt. ;

;

;

%

cotton flannel.

Remarks.

extensively.

—This

is given in large quantities, as it has been made and sold

The analine is only to color, and the citronella to flavor.

Furniture, Upholstered. Carpets, Furs, Fannels, Etc.—The

Trade Secret for Ridding of Moths. — A trade secret among upholsterers

for ridding furniture, etc., of moths, is the following:

"A set of furniture

that seemed to be alive with the larvse, and from which hundreds of these pests

had been picked and brushed, was set into a room by itself. Three gallons of

benzine wa,' purchased, at 30 cents a gallon, retail. Using a small watering

pot, with a. iine rose-sprinkler, the whole upholstery was saturated through and

through with the benzine. Result: Every moth, larvjE and egg was killed.

The benzine dried out in a few hours, and its entire odor disappeared m 3 or 4

days.

Not the slightest harm happened to the varnish, or wood, or fabric, or

hair-stuffing.

That was months ago, and not a sign of a moth has since appeared.

The carpets were also sprinkled all around the sides of the room, with

equally good effect. For furs, flannels indeed, all woolen articles contaming

moths, benzine is most valuable. Put them in a box, sprinkle them with

benzine, close the box tightly, and in a day or two the pests will be exterminated, and the benzine will all evaporate on opening.

In using benzine great

care should be taken that no fire is near by, as it is very inflammable. Tecum'

—

—

—

seh (Mich.) Herald.

—

Remarks. There is not a doubt of this fact, for I know that benzine is

" death to bed-bugs," and so is gasoline, which may be equally good for moths,

and being much cheaper, is worthy of trial.

It will evaporate, too, as quickly

as the benzine.

1.

Paint— Cheap, as Used at Iowa College, Suitable for

Fences, Cheap Buildings, Tenement Houses, Etc.— Crude petroleum,

3 parts

body.

—

qts.

or gals.

—boiled linseed

oil,

1

part,

with " mineral paint," for

—

Remarks. A report having got into some of the papers, that such a paint

had been used on some of the college buildings, an inquiry about its value led

Prof. S. A. Knapp to make the following explanation.

He says:

MECnANIGAL.

7S9

"Five buildings and considerable fence upon the Iowa Agricultural

Upon some of theni

it has been one year, and thus far it has appeared to be fully equal to more exCollege Farm, have been painted with this preparation.

pensive paints, in body, durability and in retention of color. It is especially

adapted to cheap outbuildings, covered with rough boards. If 25 lbs. of white

lead be added to each 100 lbs. of mineral paint, the mixture answers a very

excellent purpose for tenement houses.

[I see another writer

of lead to 4 lbs. of mineral paint, is sufficient.]

claims that 1 lb.

Many experienced painters

have examined the buildings covered with this paint, and affirmed that it made

a better covering than pure lead and oil. This is doubtless an extreme view.

It may, however, fairly be considered as a reliable paint for protection of the

fences and cheaper farm buildings."

Black Paint—Ho-w to Make for Iron Fences, Balustrades,

2.

Farm Implenients, Etc. — Coal-tar, 2 qts. benzine, or benzole, 1 pt., era

;

little more, to thin it, to lay on

As the benzine is very

nicely with a brush.

evaporative, make no more than is to be used at the time.

Industrial Monthly.

—

Remarks. This is claimed to be more durable than oil and lamp-black

paints, even where that was varnished, having been in use three years when

the report was made.

3.

Paint for Floors.

—A writer claims there "

is but one paint suitable

French ochre. And, 1st, if the boards have shrunk,

clean out the cracks, and, with a small brush, give them a heavy coat of ooiled

Paint the whole floor

linseed oil, then putty them solid and smooth.

2d.

with a mixture of much boiled oil and little ochre for the first coat; then after

it is well dried, give two more coats of much ochre and little oil; and finally

for floors, and this

is

finish with a coat of first-rate copal varnish.

It is extremely durable for floors,

windows, or outside, such as verandas, porticoes and the like. A floor staiii,

he continues, is best mixed in oil, and finally varnished."

Remarks. If " a floor stain is best mixed in oil and varnished," take the

—

following:

—

4. Floor Stain.

" Boiled linseed oil, 1 gal. 5 cts. worth, or 2 heaping table-spoonfuls of burnt umber; heat the oil hot in an iron kettle soap

•will clean it easily

then stir in the finely powdered umber, and with an old

paint brush apply it as hot as you can; then, says a lady in the Blade, farewell

;

—

—

scrubbing.

A mop, wrung out of warm water, will clean

it nicely."

—

Remarks. This amount was given for a floor of 14 to 16 feet square; but

it is about twice as much as needed if only one coat is to be given.

The following receipt may be liked better, as it has spirits of turpentine in it, which

causes it to penetrate the wood more deeply; and it has some "dryer "also,

which makes it dry quicker than without it. It was given in the Detroit Post

UTid Tribune, coming from a painter, as follows.

—

5.

Stain Black Walnut for a Pine Floor, Light Shade. " For

an ordinary sized room, boiled oil and spirits of turpentine, each 1 qt. dryer,

1 gill (4 ozs.); burnt umber, 3^' lb. Mix thoroughly and thin, or your floor

;

——

DR. CEASE'S RECIPES.

800

will be black as your shoe nearly.

to give the shade desired.]

[Then put in only sufficient of the umber

If the floor is not to

be varnished, use turpentine,

1 pt. only, and boiled oil, 3 pts., to make it more glossy."

6.

ozs.

;

Paint, Flexible, for

boiling water, 1| gals.

Canvas.— Yellow soap, thinly sliced, 2J-

Dissolve the soap by more heat, if necessary, and

grind the whole solution, while hot, with 135

lbs.

of good oil-paint.

Keep

same proportions for any amount needed.

7.

Paint, Old, to Remove.— Stone lime, 3 ozs.; pear lash, or salera-

tus, 1 oz.

Directions.

—Slack the lime with water, and mix in the pearlash, or

salera-

enough to make a paste. Spread this upon the paint to

be removed, and let it remain over night, or until soft, when it can all be

tus, using only water

Scientific American.

scraped off.

Remarks.

—Where pearlash or saleratus cannot be obtained, sal soda may

take their place,

Fire-Proof "Wash for Shingle Roofs.—Freshly slacked lime, sal);

and fine sand, or wood ashes, equal parts, made into a wash and put on freely

as any ordinary whitewash is done, is said to render shingles fifty-fold more

safe against taking fire from falling cinders, or otherwise, in case of a fire in

the vicinity.

—

Fireman's Journal.

Cement, Crystal, or Liquid Glue for Q-eneral Purposes.

"Hard water, 3 qts.; white glue, 3 lbs.; dry white lead, \ lb.; aqua am1.

monia, 1

oz. ; spirits of

hol, 1 qt.

;

camphor, 2 ozs.

;

salt, 1

heaping table-spoonful ; alco-

gum shellac, \ lb.

Directions.

—Put the shellac into the alcohol until dissolved. Dissolve the

glue in the water by putting into a tin dish and setting into a pan of hot water

to prevent burning the glue, till dissolved ; then put the glue water and sheldissolved in the alcohol, together in a pan or kettle, to allow all to be

brought to a boiling heat, stir in the powdered white lead then the ammonia

and spirits of camphor, and lastly the salt ; stir and boil a few minutes, and

bottle while hot.

Remarks. This receipt was sent to me by Albert Stockwell, of Flint,

Mich., who, in canvassing for my receipt books, always carried this cement

with him, for sale, to help in his expenses. He spoke very highly of its great

lac,

;

—

strength as a cement.

2.

Cement for Iron Works. —It is sometimes advisable to fix two

pieces of iron, as pipes for water or steam, firmly together as a permanency.

A rust cement is frequently used, and the materials are sal-ammoniac, sulphur

and iron borings. If the cement is desired to act quickly, the proportions

should be Sal-ammoniac, 1 part by weight sulphur, 2 parts iron borings, 20O

parts.

The sal-ammoniac and sulphur should be pulverized, and the borings

of iron tolerably fine and free from oil. The mixture should be made with

water to a conveniently handled paste. The theory of its action is simply

union by oxidation.

:

;

;

MECHANICAL.

801

Cement for Leather. — Sulphide of carbon, 10 parts

3.

spirits of

;

turpentine, 1 part ; into which, in a suitable bottle, put finely cut shreds of

pure gutta percha, to make a thickly-flowing liquid. To remove grease from

the belts or leather to be joined, put a cloth

a while

;

upon it, and apply a hot iron for

then apply the cement to both surfaces, put together and apply pres-

sure until dry,

Cement for Rubber, and to Fasten Rubber to Metal,

4.

Glass and Other Smooth Surfaces.—" Powdered shellac is softened to

ten times its weight of strong water of ammonia, whereby a transparent

mass

some little time, without the

In three or four weeks the mixture is perfectly liquid, and

ase of hot water.

when applied it will be found to soften the rubber. As soon as the ammonia

evaporates the rubber hardens again it is said quite firmly and thus becomes

impervious both to gases and to liquids. For cementing sheet rubber or rubber

material in any shape to metal, glass or other smooth surfaces the cement is

highly recommended."

is

obtained, which becomes fluid after keeping

—

—

n. Cement for Rubber Q-oods, Fastening Rubber Soles,

Leather Patches, Straps, etc.— Fill a bottle one-tenth full of native

Indian rubber (gutta-percha) cut in minute shreds pour in benzole till the

shake every few days until the mixture is as

thick as honey.

This dries quickly. It is useful to mend rubber shoes or any

;

bottle is three-quarters full

;

other rubber goods, as a water and air-tight cement for bottles

—

simply dipping the corks into it, and for a hundred other purposes. Three coats of this

will unite leather straps, patches and rubber soles with firmness.

To make a

patch invisible, shave the edge of the leather quite thin.

6,

Cement, Similar to that upon Postage Stamps, Qunmaed

Good for Scrap Books, Labeling on Tin, Glass, etc.

Labels, etc.

,

—Dextrine, 2

ozs. ; acetic acid and alcohol, each, ^ oz. ; water, 2^^ ozs.

—

Directions. Mix the dextrine, acetic acid and water, stirring until thoroughly mixed then add the alcohol For attaching labels to tin, first rub the

surface with a mixture of equal parts of muriatic acid and alcohol

then

apply the label gummed with a very thin coating of the cement, and it will

adhere almost as well as on glass, A thin coat only is needed on "scraps,"

;

;

for scrap books.

Remarks.

—Knowing the value of a paste, or cement, somewhat similar to

where the adhesion depended upon the dextrine, I have every confidence

in this for all the purposes named.

this,

6. Cement for Small Leaks in Steam Boilers.—Experiments

have shown the following to be effectual for stopping small leaks from the

seams of boilers, pipes, etc. Mix equal parts of air-slacked lime and fine sand;

and finely powdered litharge equal to both the first. Keep the powder dry, in a

When wanted to apply, mix, as much as needed, to

bottle, or a covered box.

a paste, with boiled linseed oil, and apply quickly, as it soon liardens.

51

—

DR. CHASE'S RECIPES.

809

II.

Cement. Steam-Tight, and Water-Tight for Joints.—

Pure white, and red leads, equal parts mixed with boiled linseed oil, to the con-

sistency required, has been extensively used for this purpose.

Steam Boilers, to Prevent Incrustation from Becoming Hard.

—A bar of zinc having accidentally been

left in a steam boiler, when under

found to have disappeared, or dissolved, by which

the incrustations, instead of becoming hard, were muddy and soft, and hence

This proves that the zinc, and iron of the boiler, forms a bateasily removed.

tery, the zinc being consumed, while the iron is protected, which is claimed to

be a valuable discovery in engineering. The size of the bar of zinc would

necessarily depend upon the size of the boiler, and how long the run was to b©

between cleanings.

repairs, it was afterwards

Nails, to Drive Into Hard Seasoned Timber.— The editor of the

New Oenesee Farmer gives the following account of witnessing an experiment of driving nails into hard seasoned timber, fairly dried. "The first two

nails, after passing through a pine board, entered about an inch, only, into the

hard wood, then doubled down under the hammer; but on dipping the points

of six or eight nails into lard, ev^ry one was driven home without the least

difficulty."