Occasionally the colony will swarm without having started any queen cells,

in which case it will be twenty-four or more days before it will

Queen unless one is furnished it.

have a laying

BEE-KEEPINO.

811

HOW TO CLIP A QUEEN'S WING.

As soon as the queen has commenced to deposit eggs, usually about eight

or ten days after being hatched, take hold of the left wing -with the left thumb

and whichever finger comes most handy, (or if left handed use the right hand),

being careful not to grasp or squeeze the abdomen, raise her from the comb,

and let her stand on another finger or on the knee, and with a small pair of

sharp scissors, one blade of which is carefully passed under the right wing,

of it, being very careful not to injure either of her legs, then

clip off at least

replace her on the comb among the bees.

%

HOW TO GET STRAIGHT COMBS.

If no foundation is to be used, and the bees are to make their own combs,

and it is desired to have them straight in the frames, it may be easily accomplished in the following manner:

Have the lower side of the top bar of the frames made V shaped.

Raise

the back end of the hive about 6 inches, and as the bees always begin comb

building at the highest point, they will begin at the back end of the frames.

When they have started comb nearly half the length of the frames they are at

work on, reverse every other one, putting the front end of the frames at the^back

end of the hive, and if the combs already built are straight, the filling out of

the other ends of the frames will necessarily be straight.

It will be well to look

combs occasionally while they are being built, and if they are being

started wrong, or are being made crooked, they can readily be bent and fixed

at the

straight.

A little attention to this will easily secure that much to be desired

object, straight combs.

When the combs are started the full length of the top

bar, the back end of the hive should be lowered to the right position.

ROBBING.

When the flow of honey ceases, bees are very much inclined to rob. To

prevent this, keep the entrance to the hive closed to the size necessary for the

use of the colony. If robbing has already begun, close the entrance so that

but one or two bees can pass at a time. If this does not stop it, cover the

entrance with some loose, wet hay or straw.

Bees do not like to crawl through

tMs, and the colony will generally be able to repel the attack.

WINTERING.

known that to winter bees successfully is the most difficult part

of bee-keeping, and this one thing may be put down as an axiom: Extremes of

It is well

heat or cold are detrimental to bees.

If the

temperature becomes extremely

more food to keep up the animal heat; they become uneasy

and throw off much moisture which may condense and freeze around the

cluster encasing them in a solid wall of ice, thus preventing them reaching

the honey, and they actually starve with plenty of honey in the hive. The

low, the bees take

DB- CHASE'S RECIPES.

812

remark is often made in the spring by those that had a few colonies and losS

them in the winter, "My bees all died with lots of honey in the hive; I wonder

what was the reason ?"

If the temperature becomes too high they will also become restless and eat

more than is for their good, become diseased, foul their combs and hive, and

die with plenty of honey in the combs.

CELLAK WINTERING.

It will readily be seen that it is desirable to avoid either of these extremes,

heat and cold.

To do this, as soon as there is settled cold weather, which in

this locality is usually about the middle of

November, place the bees in a dark,

quiet cellar that will keep vegetables well, and maintain an even temperature

of about 45*^. Of course the bees should have plenty of honey to eat, and 25

lbs. will be none too much to last them till they can gather a supply in the

spring.

To prepare them for the cellar remove everything above the frames

and put three or four sticks, J^ inch square, and nearly as long as the hive is

wide inside, crosswise on the frames, and put on a new honey quilt. This wiU

give the needed ventilation, retain the heat, and give the bees a chance to move

over the tops of the frames. This should be done before cold weather, so when

it is time to put the bees in winter quarters all it will be necessary to do will be

to remove the cap and carefully place the colony in the cellar.

OUTDOOR WINTERING,

If the bees are to be wintered out doors 35 lbs. of honey will be none too

much for each colony.

A new quilt and sticks should take the place of the old

Corn fodder or straw may be placed

about each hive to aid in keeping off the cold, but the entrance should be left

partially open and shaded from the sun.

A better method of outdoor protection is to take a box without top or

bottom and 8 or 10 inches larger each way than the outside of the hive and as

high as may be needed. Place this box over the hive and fix the entrance so

that the bees can get out and in, and fill the space between the box and hive

with chaff, cut straw or dry leaves, well pressed down, and cover the top of the

hive in the same way, and finish by covering the box with a flat, or slanting,

roof that is water tight.

The best outdoor wintering arrangement I have ever seen is that used by

H. D. Cutting, of Clinton, Mich., now and for several years past, Secretary of

the Michigan State Bee-keepers' Association. It is simple, cheap and durable.

It is very easily made and can be

I don't know that he ever made one to sell.

taken apart and put away (in the flat) in a moment and will last for years. It

or 3^ inch thick, dressed on one or both sides, or it need

is made of lumber

not be dressed at all. Cut it so it will be 8 or 10 inches longer than the hive

for the sides, and 8 or 10 inches longer than the hive is wide for the ends. For

each hive make 8 pieces or cleats, about 1 inch square and 4 inches longer

quilt the same as for cellar wintering.

%

^han the hive is high, unless the cover is high.

BEE-KEEPING.

818

%

To make the sides place 1 of the inch square pieces

an inch from the

end of the board cut for the sides, if i^ inch stuff is used, or

of an inch if

stuff is used, and naii fast; making as wide as the cleats are long, and put

another cleat at the other end in the same way. For the end pieces place the

cleats 1 inch from the ends of the boards that have been cut for the ends; make

%

%

as

many of these as may be needed.

The sides and ends may be fastened at

the corners with two hooks at each corner, or screws may be used if more convenient.

The cover may be made like a house roof, or in any way that may

always making sure that it is water tight. Set

suit ones fancy or convenience,

the hive to be prepared for winter on a board that is as wide as the inside of the

'above described box, and some longer than its length so as to furnish an alight-

ing place for the bees. Fix an entrance for the bees and place the box in position, and pack as already directed.

The ends of the cleats will stand on the

edges of the bottom board so that rains will not wet the packing.

Whatever method of protection is adopted, whether it be corn fodder, straw,

or packing in a box, it should not be removed till settled warm weather in the

spring.

MY METHOD OP WINTERINa.

As soon as possible after the frost has killed the flowers so that the bees

can gather little or no bee-bread, I examine each colony and select such combs

have little or no bee-bread in them, and place as many in one side of tlie

as

hive as the bees may need to cluster on, and put in a division board.

is

If there

not honey enough in the selected combs for the bees to winter on, I uncap

the honey in some or all of the others, and place them on the other side of the

division board so the bees will carry it over into the

on.

combs they are to winter

If there is still a lack of winter stores, I feed more honey or syrup made

of either granulated, or coffee

A sugar.

Don't feed poor sugar if you wish to

save the bees.

The empty or extra combs are put away to be used again in the spring.

At this time put on the sticks and new honey quilt as before directed, and when

it

becomes settled cold weather, place all in the cellar.

The object in taking away the bee-bread is to prevent the loss of bees from

diarrhea.

I

have wintered in this way with perfect success for the last seven

winters, not losing a colony from disease.

During cold weather all the bees need to eat is food which will produce heat,

and that is furnished by the honey or sugar sjTup, which, when pure, is fully

digested, leaving nothing to be discharged as feces, consequently there can be

no diarrhea, unless it be induced by extremes of heat or cold.

I believe that colonies wintered in the cellar are more apt to become weak

from the loss of bees

in the spring than those that are wintered outdoors if

but thase wintered in the cellar consume much less honey.

The same protection may be given them when they are brought from the

properly protected

;

cellar in the spring, as has been

recommended for outdoor wintering, and will

largely, if not wholly prevent spring dwindling.

DR. CHASET 8 RECIPES.

814

Whatever method of wintering may be adopted, the secret of doing it suo

is, to keep the bees in an even temperature, and with little, or no

cessfully

nitrogenous food.

Pollen, called also bee-bread, is nitrogenous food.

If the bees are wintered in the cellar, place them on their summer stands

as early in the spring as they can gather pollen from willow and soft maple

blossoms.

If convenient place each hive where it stood the previous season.

With the division board keep the bees crowded on as few combs as they

may choose to occupy, moving it and giving new combs from those removed

when preparing for winter, as often as they may need them.

If it is desired to keep the honey quilt clean for future winter use it may

be removed and the one taken off in the fall replaced; but it will be well to put

the wintering quilt on top of the other to help retain the heat 'till settled warm

weather.

HONEY VINEGAR.

All waste honey, and that with a bitter and unpleasant taste may be madt

Into vinegar that is better flavored than that made from cider.

When extracting honey, the dishes used will have honey adhering to them

•which should be rinsed off with as little water as possible, and the sweetened

water thus obtained should be put in a keg, barrel or crock and placed where

During warm weather it may be placed in the sun, and

so covered that air may readily enter, and dirt and flies be excluded. The cappings removed from the combs with the uncapping knife, after the honey haa

drained from them, may be washed with water, and will add materially to the

amount of sweetened water. The sweeter the water the stronger the vinegar

•will be but it will not sour as rapidly if made too sweet at first.

it will be kept warm.

;

ENEMIES OP BEES.

Bees have many enemies, but I shall notice but two, the toad and the

The only objection that I know of to the hive resting on the

ground is, that it makes it convenient for Mr. or Mrs. Toad to readily reach

the bees, where they will quietly sit and make a square meal of bees. Although

they are good in the garden and on the farm, they are bad around the beehives.

Be sure and keep them away, even if you are obliged to kill them.

The moth-miller is sometimes very troublesome, but seldom does any

harm if all colonies are kept strong.

Don't invest in moth-proof hives, or

moth traps, but keep all the colonies strong and the moth-miller will nol

moth-miller.

trouble.

FOUL BROOD.

Among the diseases of bees, foul brood takes first rank.

The success oi

the most convenient method of curing it (and the one I shall give) would indicate that the cause of the disease

is

in

developed in the young brood, causing

the honey;

it

to

but the disease itself is

die, usually before

it is

sealed

BEE-KEEPING.

&«3

It may also lurk in and about the hive, and a hive that has contained

a diseased colony should not be again used for any purpose till thoroughly

over.

disinfected by boiling.

When a colony is badly diseased it may frequently be known by the

odor without opening the hive.

To me it is very much like that given off

by the melting of bad glue.

It may be quite readily known on examination of the combs, especially

if badly diseased.

If but few cells of brood are affected it may not be

detected by one not acquainted with it, and if extracted honey is taken may

readily be communicated to every colony, for it is very contagious.

When the brood first dies it usually has the appearance of pus, or " matter," and settles

down in the lower back comer of the cell, and is light col-

ored; but the longer it is dead the darker it becomes, sometimes getting almost

black.

If the disease is suspected, take a pin and with the head slowly attempt

to remove the putrid mass from one of the cells.

If it clings to the pin and

also to the cell, and stretches out like a thread of rubber, and finally lets

go

the pin and draws back into the cell, it is quite safe to call it foul brood.

Being so contagious, it, by many, is considered difficult to cure; so much

when well on

But this is a useless waste,

fire throw the hive, bees and all, into the fire.

the bees, hive, and frames may be saved and the combs melted into wax.

Probably the best way is to have a starving box to hold about a peck, with

one side off, or an empty hive may be used. Shake and brush all the bees

of the diseased colony into the starving box and cover the open side with

wire cloth, so that not a bee can escape, and do not let a single bee from the

colony being treated go to any other colony, for it will be pretty sure to carry

the disease with it.

Set this box in a cool, dark place, where no bees can

reach it, placing the box so that the wire cloth will be on the side, not on the

so that it is directed to burn a good log or brush-heap, and

top or bottom.

Now melt the combs into wax, and thoroughly boil the hive and frames and

everything connected with it, in water, and it is again ready for use. Do not use

the old location again unless it has been thoroughly scalded, ground and all,

with boiling water, or covered one or more inches deep with salt, which is to be

left to be dissolved by the rains and dews.

After the bees have been in the box two or more days some of the bees will

be seen falling to the bottom, having consumed all the honey taken with them,

and are actually starving. If they were well filled with honey when put in the

box it may be six or more days before the honey is all used up. When a few

bees fall to the bottom, say 100, more or less, and are crawling slowly about,

they may be placed in the boiled or some other hive that has been prepared with

foundation or starters.

I would not use any comb for a few days, for if any of the bees should still

have any foul honey it would be deposited in the cells and so continue tho

disease.

DR. CEASE'S RECIPES.

816

The bees in the starving-box must be very closely watched, for when their

honey is all consumed they soon die. Look at them several times a day after

the second day.

To cleanse the hands or anything else that it will not do to put into boiling

water, prepare a solution of salycilic acid as follows:

Salycilic acid, 16 grs.; borax, 16 grs.; water, 1 oz.

Put in a bottle and

shake often till the acid and borax are dissolved.

Thoroughly moisten the hands, etc., with this preparation and no fears

need be entertained of spreading the disease by handling some other bees

ax hive.

I

QLOSSARY,

OR

DICTIOMRY OF MEDICAL TERMS

Used in This Work.

Ab-do-men.

The belly, or the lower front part of the body.

"Washing of the body externally; cleansing by water.

Ab-nor-mal. Unnatural; irregular; not according to rule.

Ab-or-tion. Childbirth before the proper time.

Ab-ra-sion. A superficial wound caused by bruising the skin.

Ab-sorb-ent. Glands and vessels which absorb or suck up substances; med'

icines which absorb, or combine with acid matter in the stomach or bowAb-lu-tion.

els.

Ac-couch-eur. A man who attends mothers in childbirth.

Ac-e-tab-u-lum. The socket that receives the head of the thigh bone.

A-cho-li-a. Not sufficient of bile.

A-cid.

Sour, sharp, pungent, bitter or biting to the taste.

Ac-tual Cau-te-ry. Used in surgery; burning or searing with a hot iron.

Ac-u-punc-ture. Pricking with needles; one of the operations of surgery.

Ac-ute. Diseases attended with violent symptons; the reverse of chronic.

Ad-he-sive. Tenacious, sticky; apt or tending to adhere.

Ad-he-sive Plaster. Sticking plaster.

Ad-i-pose. Membrane or tissue; fat.

A-dult Age. Manhood or womanhood; a person who has attained full size

and age.

Af-fee-tion.

Disorder, disease, malady.

Al-bu-men. An element found in both animal and vegetable substances.

The white of an egg.

Al-bu-mi-nose. A substance produced in the stomach during digestion.

Al-i-ment. Nourishment, nutrition; anything necessary for the support of

life.

Al-i-ment-a-iy Ca-nal. The entire passage through the whole

from the mouth the passage for the aliments.

intestines

;

Al-ka-li.

A substance which, when united to acids, neutralizes them.

A remedy which gradually restores healthy action-

Al-ter-a-tive.

Al-ve-o-lar.

Relating to the sockets of the teeth.

Al-vine.

Relating to the intestines.

loss or decay of sight, produced by various cmises.

Axxx-aur-O-sis.

A

52

817

GLOSSARY.

818

An obstruction of the menstrual discharges; absence of

Am-en-or-rlie-a.

the menses.

Am-ni-ot-ic Liquid. The fluid surrounding the foetus of the womb.

Am-pu-ta-tion. The act of cutting off a limb or other part of the body.

A dropsy of the whole body; a general dropsy.

A-na-sar-ca.

A-nas-to mose.

To communicate with each other; applied to arteries and

veins.

A-nat-o-my.

Study of the Ixxiy.

An-em-i-a. Lack of blood; a comparatively bloodless state.

An-es-the-sia. Numbness or paralysis of sensation.

An-eu-rism.

A soft tumor, caused by the rupture of ^e coats of an artery,

An-i-mal-ctlles.

Animals so minute as to be

visible

only with a micro-

scope.

An-o-dyne. Any medicine which will allay pain and induce sleep.

Ant-acid. A substance which neutralizes acids; alkalies are antacids.

A medicine that destroys worms.

An-tliel-min-tic.

An-thrax.

A dusky red or purplish kind of tumor, occurring in the neck.

An-ti-bil-ious.

An opposing medicine counteractive of bilious complaints.

An-ti-dote. A preventive, or remedy for, poison or any disease.

An-ti-dys-en-ter-ic. A cure for dysentery.

An-ti-e-nciet-ic. A remedy to check vomiting.

An-ti-lith-ic. A medicine to prevent or remove urinary calculi or gravel.

An-ti-mor-bif -ic. Anything to prevent or remove disease.

An-ti-pe-ri-o-dic. That which cui«s periodic diseases, such as ague, intermittent fever, etc.

An-ti-scor-bu-tic. A remedy used for the scurvy; blood purifiers.

An-ti-sep-tic. Whatever resists or removes putrefaction or mortificaiion.

An-ti spasmod-ic. Remedy for cramps, spasms, and convulsions,

A-nus. The external opening of the rectum, lower intestines,

A-or-ta.

The great artery from the heart,

Ap-a-thy.

A-pe-ri-ent.

Ap-pe-tite.

Insensibility to pain.

A mild purgative or laxative.

A desire for food or drink.

Ar-o-ma. The agreeable odor of plants and other perfumed substances.

Ar-o-mat-ic. Spicy and fragrant drugs.

Ar-te-ry, A vessel that conveys the blood from the heart to the organs.

Ar-thro-di-a, A joint movable in any direction.

The union of bones with each other, as at the joints.

Ar-tic-u -la-ted. Having joints.

As-car-i-des. Pinworms found in the lower portion of the bowels.

As-ei-tes, Dropsy of the abdomen.

As-phyx-ia. Apparent death, as from drowning.

As-sim-i-la-tion, The process by which food is changed into tissue.

As then-ic. Debilitated.

As-trin-gent. A medicine wliicli contracts or puckers up surfaces with

which they come in contact; used in flooding, diarrhea, etc.

Ar-tic-u-la-tioa.

GLOSSARY.

819

At-O-ny, Debility; defect of muscular power.

At-ro-phy. A loss of strength and wasting of flesh without any sensible

cause.

At-ten-u-ants. Medicines for reducing the weight of the body.

Au-ri-ele. A cavity of the heart.

Aus-eul-ta-tion. The art of detecting disease by listening to the sounds of

lungs, heart, etc.

Ax-il-la.

The armpit; hence axillary, pertaining to the armpit.

Ax-il-la-ry Glands.

Situated in the armpit, secreting a fluid of peculiar

odor.

Bal-sam-ics.

Medicines possessing healing properties.

A secretion from the liver which aids digestion.

A thin watery bladder on the skin.

A taper body introduced into a passage or sinus to keep it open

Cile or Gall.

Blis-ter.

Bou-gie.

or enlarge it.

Bright's Disease.

A

dangerous disease of the kidneys.

Bron-chi-tis. Inflammation of the bronchial tubes; the branches of the

windpipe in the lungs.

Ca-chex-y. A bad state of the body. It may be caused by blood poisons.

Cal-cu-lus. Stone or gravel found in the kidneys and bladder.

Cal-lous.

Hard or firm.

Ca-lor-ic.

Heat.

Capillary.

Fine, hair-like.

Cap-si-cura.

Cayenne pepper.

A dry, hollow vessel containing the seed or fruit.

A gas of two parts of oxygen and (me part of

Capsule.

Car-bon-ic Acid Gas.

carbon.

Ca-ri-es.

Ulceration of a bone.

Medicines which allay pain by expelling wind from the

Car-min-a-tives.

stomach and bowels; an aromatic medicine.

The great arteries of the neck that convey blood to the

Ca-rot-id Artery.

heart.

Car-ti-lage.

A hard elastic substance of the body; gristle.

The monthly discharges of women.

Cat-a-plasm. A poultice.

Ca-tarrh. A discharge from the head or throat; a flow of mucus.

Ca-ta-me-ni-a.

Ca-thar-tic.

Cath-e-ter.

An active purgative.

A curved instrument introduced into the bladder, for drawing

off the urine.

Caus-tic.

Burning; a corroding or destroying substance which bums or COT

rodes living tissues, as nitrate of silver, potash, etc.

Cau-ter-y.

burning or searing any part of the body.

Cell.

A

A small elementary form found in vegetable and animal tissue.

Cer-e-bel-lum.

Cer-e-bral.

The lower and back part of the brain.

Pertaining to the brain.

Cer-e-brum. The upper and front part of the brain.

GLOSSARY.

820

Cer-e-bro-Spinal.

Containing iron in solution, as found in mineral springs.

Cha-lyb-e-ate.

CJlian-cre.

Pertaining to the spinal cord and brain.

The wax of the ear.

Ce-ru-men.

A venereal or syphilitic sore.

Chol-a-gogues. Medicines that cause an increased flow of bile, such as calomel and podophyllin.

Chol-er-ic.

Easily irritated; irritable.

Chor-dee.

A painful drawing of the chords of the penus.

It

occurs in

gonorrhea.

To continue for a long time, and becoming a fixed condition of

Chron-ic.

the system.

Chyle.

A milky fluid, mixing with and forming the blood.

Chyme. The pulp formed by the food after it has been for some time in the

stomach, mixed with the gastric secretions.

Cir-cu-la-tion. The motion of the blood, which is propelled by the heart

through the body.

Clav-i-cle.

Collar-bone.

Co-ag-u-la-tion.

A change from a fluid to a soUd condition, as in the

coagulation of the blood.

Co-ag-u-lum.

A clot of blood.

Co-a-lesce. To grow together; to unite.

Col-lapse. Sudden failure or prostration of the vital functions.

Excessive discharges from the body which weaken the

Col-liq-ua-tive.

system.

Co-lon.

A portion of the large intestine.

Co-ma, Com.-a-tose.

Stupor; disposed to sleep.

Com.-press. A bandage, made with several folds of linen.

Con-cus-sion. A violent shock.

Con-flu-ent. Running together.

Con-ges-tion. An accumulation of blood.

Con-junc-ti-va. The membrane that lines the eyelid and covers the eye.

Con-sti-pa-tion. Costiveness.

Con-ta-gious. Catching, or that which may be communicated by contact

Con-tu-sion. A bruise.

Con-va-les-cence. An improvement in health after sickness.

Con-