Such vats are made to

be surrounded with water, or, at any rate, water under the vat, to prevent a

possibility of scorching the milk; as they are placed upon a furnace to allow a

fire under them, for warming the milk and whey at the proper time; and also

to allow cold water to be put into the outer shell which surrounds the milk vat

you will notice my friend,

proper, to aid in cooling down the night's milk, as

Mr. Sanders, mentions in his explanations below. I had written to him in

1879, when I first began writing upon this, my " Third and Last Receipt Book,"

now well on to six years ago (this writing is done Feb. 17, 1885, and I have

written faithfully upon it all the time I could command, ever since, and, thank

the Lord, it is now nearly completed, and I hope, and trust it shall do a great

good to the people, for whom I have done my best).

In writing to my cousin Sanders about sacking, or putting the cloth

around the cheese, as we see it comes from the factories, amount of rennet

to be xised, best form of press, and .several other points, as you will see in

I mention

his answer, which I did not see given in the published items.

His letter is as follows:

this that his answer may be the better understood.

"Holland, N. Y., April 14, 1879.

"Dear Cousin, A. W. Chase, M. D.— Yours of April 4th duly received.

\.

"In answer about sacking cheese: After the cheese has been in the

pre^, say, 2 hours, take out, put on the sack snugly, turn the cheese, and

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650

CEASE'S RECIPES.

*

return it to the press for 24 hours, or till next morning. Commence witb

light weight, and heavier towards the last, that will press the bandoge firmly

into the cheese, and prevent flies from getting in.

I think the lever press

the true principle of pressing.

" In regard to skim-milk cheese, you can keep the milk just as

II.

long as it will keep perfectly sweet, although in quite cool weather it wiU

frequently get bitter, and that would spoil the flavor of the cheese.

" I can tell no exact rule for the amount of rennet, for there is

III.

BO much diiference in the strength of them. Must use judgment and practice.

We strain the night's

IV. " I will try to tell how we make our cheese.

milk into the vat and put cold water around the milk (that is, in the outer

shell under and around the milk, by which the milk is also heat, when desired,

by a fire in the furnace,) to keep the milk from souring. In the morning, skim,

put the cream in the strainer, and strain the morning's milk, which is warm,

through it to dissolve the cream (so you see, the cream is not to be taken away

for butter, if you wish good rich cheese); then heat to 80 or 85 degrees, when

we add the rennet. It should coagulate in from 30 to 35 minutes; then stand

40 minutes, and cut the curd then stand about the same length of time before

heating up the whey; when the heat has been raising about 10 minutes, commence working gradually, till it gets to 100 degrees. Work it up with clean

hands to keep th^ curd from sticking together, until it will cleave apart; then

let the fire go down, and let it stand till the whey becomes a sickish sweet, then

drain off the whey, add salt (see Mr. Arnold's plan for the right amount), put

into hoops, press 2 hours, sa,ck, turn, and put back and press till next morning.

"Last season we sent our milk to the factory, for the reason wife's health

was not good enough to see to it (his wife made the cheese generally, which I

always thought was too hard work for a weakly woman, and still think the

same); but it did not ret more than two-thirds as much as when made it ourThe lowest I have sold our own make of cheese for, since the war, is

selves.

It is lower now; but my customers last spring offered me 10

12)4, cts. per lb.

but I have never been able to supply the adjacent

cts. if I would supply tbem

I have not kept my dairying accounts so as

villagers with what they wanted.

to give you figures of the amount of milk for a certain amount of cheese, nor

of the profits of the business. Suffice it to say, I think it the best business for

a farmer here, he can follow; and I agree with you, that every farmer should

make his cheese for his own table.

" Our best respects to yourself and family.

David Sanders."

;

;

—

JRemarks. I thi!?k between this gentleman's explanations and those of Mr.

Arnold, any man, or woman, who is stout and healthy enough to do the work,

will be able to master all the intricacies there are in the business of cheese

making, whether it be with few or many cows, as the plan is the same; and

those who keep a large number of cows, and wish to make cheese for the London (England) mwket, will be able to do so, by the following item, from the

Ewt-al New Torker, which was given under the following head:

2.

Fancy Shipping Cheese. — The following is the process for "gilt-

edge " fancy cheese for the London market, at one of the most noted factories

in Herkimer county, N. Y.

" In warm weather, during summer, the milk is cooled by running water

under the vats to a temperature of 70° Fahr. The water is then turned off for

the night, and the agitator kept moving very slowly until morning. If the

weather is cool, in summer, the water is turned off when the milk has fallen

to a temperature of 74°.

In the morning the temperature of the milk ranges

about 64*^ Fahr. Mr. Fairchild, the manager, says he does not want the temperature of the milk to have fallen below 64° in the morning because, when

this is the case, the milk is too sweet, or has not sufficiently ripened for hia

^

TEE DAIRY.

651

method of cheese making. In summer the milk is raised to a temperature ot

Fahr., and a sufficient quantity of good, sweet rennet added to produce

9.^°

coagulation so it will be fit to cut in 1 hour. The coagulation should be carried

so far as to have the mass break smooth and clear, on introducing the finger

and raising it,

"Then the curds are cut lengthwise of the vat with a gang of steel knives,

and allowed to remain at rest for a space of ten minutes. They are now cut

crosswise, and immediately after this operation the horizontal knives are used

to divide the perpendicular columns of curd, and when this is completed no

more cutting is allowed. Heat is now immediately applied to the mass, and its

temperature is raised slowly, or gradually, until it reaches 98 deg. In the

meantime, the curds are very carefully moved with the hands and the particles

of curd are about ^ths of an inch through. "Water is used under the vats for

heating, and this is regarded as better than dry steam. When the mass has

reached a temperature of 98 deg., heat is shut off; but in equalizing the temperature of the water under the vats and the curds, the latter will run up to

about 100 deg. The curds are now stirred for from 10 to 15 minutes, and very

slowly, or until the heat is all equalized through the mass.

Then the curds

are left at rest the cheese maker's office being to watch and stir the curds

occasionally until the acid begins to develop.

It generally takes about an hour

for the acid to develop sufficiently during hot weather, and when this point is

reached which is indicated by the odor, or if the hot iron is employed the curds

should only spin threads about %tlis of an inch long. At this point, which

must be determined correctly by the cheese maker, the whey is immediately

drawn, and the curds dipped into the sink.

They are here stirred until the

whey is all out, when salt is applied at the rate of 3 lbs. salt to 1,000 lbs. of

—

milk.

"A proportion of annattoine is used during summer in the milk, as the

London dealer to whom the cheese goes, on orders, require a colored cheese.

The annattoine proportion is after Whitman & Burrell's recipe, and takes one

teacupful for 1,000 lbs. of milk. This gives the desired shade and suits the

London trade exactly.

" In spring and fall, when the patrons are allowed to skim a portion of the

milk, the process of manufacture is varied, and is as follows: The milk is set

at a temperature of 84 deg., and a quantity of rennet added sufficient to produce coagulation completely in 40 minutes. It is then cut in the same way as

for whole milk-cheese and the mass raised to a temperature of 96 deg., which

ultimately runs to 98 deg. in equalizing the temperature of the water and curds.

The late fall cheese is salted at the rate of 23^ to 2% lbs. salt to 1,000 lbs of.

milk and the winter cheese gets only 2 lbs. For this character of cheese he

does not want so much development of acid as for the summer make. When

under the hpt iron test the acid is far enough developed when you can just

perceive the strings to start on withdrawing the lumps of curd from the iron.

In winter he regards it important to draw the whey as quickly as possible andl

get the curds in the hoop rapidly.

Remarks. Thus we have the home-made cheese, on a small and on a large

scale, and the very tip-top fancy cheese of the factories, so that all can be pleased.

The factory plan, without the coloring, would be just the thing, for home mar»

ket or home use.

—

3. Buttermilk Cheese, Plain and Spiced, if Desired— German

Plan—Excellent. — According to a German agricultural journal excellent

cheese may be made of buttermilk by the following process: "The butter-

milk, after being boiled and allowed to stand until cool, is placed in a cheeseform (loop) or heavy linen bag until the whey is drained off, when it is salted,

not too heavily, and spiced according to taste, and thoroughly mixed. About

a spoonful of alcohol is then added for each pound, and the mass is thoroughly

"

DR- CEASE'S RECIPES.

^52

kneaded, and formed into cheeses of any desired size or form, which are dried

in the air, and then wrapped in clean linen cloths that have previously been

moistened with hot whey, and packed in a well-covered cask, and stowed in a

warm place. Four days suffice to render them fit for use, but they improve by

The small hand-cheeses, which especially become very dry in winter,

age.

may be rendered palatable by simply wrapping them, when dry, in horse-radish

They will be found of a very

leaves, and packing them closely in a cask.

agreeable flavor in from 3 to 4 weeks.

Remarks. — Many persons are very fond of buttermilk cheese, and those

who do not desire to spice them will simply use a little salt.

Cheese Factory—Wliat it Costs to Pit Up, Articles Needed,

With. Price of Each. —I cannot settle this point better than by giving an

explanation in a recent number of the Fostoria Beview by E. A. Davidson, of

Gilroy, Cal., who reported the fitting up of his factory there for using the milk

of 500 cows, which is probably as small a number as will pay to prepare for.

It is probable that to buy in the cities of the Middle or Eastern States the cost

would be somewhat less than in California.

He says:

I have recently fitted out a factory for about that number of cows,

the cost of which forms the basis of the figures I give. The following will be

list no provision has been made

found reliable. It will be observed that in

for engine or force pump for forcing water into tanks, which in some localities

may be necessary. It will be found much more desirable to have running

water, either from spring or artesian well, where it can be procured without too

great expense, as it will materially lessen the running expense of the factory^ as

*

*

my

well as prove at all times a safeguard from tainted or sour milk, both of which

are very liable to occur where there is a lack of good, pure running water.

There are also cases of defect sometimes in the working of either pump or

engine, and this causes much inconvenience, and many times actual cost in

handling the milk. The following is a Ust of necessary apparatus, with present

Three 600-gallon vats, $80 each,

One press with capacity for thirty 60-pound cheese,

.

Ten press screws

Thirty telescope hoops,

One 80-gallon weighing can,

One milk conductor,

.

.