tedious and uncertain experiment of pressing will ever again

resort to it after trying this new and better way."

Remarks.

—The iron must be kept hot enough to keep the spermaceti soft,

else it will not spread on the leaves.

Tomatoes, To Ripen in December. — A Massachusetts gardener sells

ripe tomatoes in December, by sowing the seeds in July, then potting the plants

in a 9-inch jar, and

needed.

maturing in a green-house with artificial heat as soon as

An infusion of tomato leaves has been recently found to not only

destroy plant

long time.

lice,

but from

its

peculiar odor prevent their return

for

a

See these destroyers.

Plant Jars, To Paint and Bronze for House Use.— Plant jars

MISCELLANEOUS.

539

for out-door use ought, to look well, be painted with bright colors, as red or

—

blue the foliage gives the contrast with its green but for house use paint them

over with plain, cheap varnish, then with a bit of pad, or piece of broadcloth

upon a thin, small bit of board, apply common bronze powder all over; or, to

;

make them nicer, paint the bodies, some red and some blue, then bronze the

rim, which gives

them "a gold-like appearance, contrasting prettily with the

The bronze on a varnish will not stand the rains and exposure

painted body.

out of doors.

—

Cracked Hands, To Cure. A laboring man who had been troubled

with cracked hands, and tried many other remedies without success, was finally

told to put common copal varnish into the cracks which, in 48 hours, entirely

cured them. Others came, but the same remedy always cured. He had given

it to others with the same success before making it public.

He bought a.

10-cent bottte, kept it corked, and applied when needed with a bit of sliver from

the fire wood.

Most all painters and paint dealers

It is simple and efficient.

keep it.

CARROTS.— Their Value as Pood for Man and Domestia

Animals. — A writer, with whom the author agrees— except that he thinks parsnips preferable to carrots for horses says: "The carrot is one of the most healthful and nutritious of our gardea roots, and deserves to be much more extensively

used for culinary purposes, and we urge our readers to give some of the early

table sorts a trial.

As an agricultural root, the carrot is not surpassed for feed-

—

ing horses and milch cows, and every farmer should plant a few for this pur-

The carrot succeeds best on light, sandy loam, made rich by manuring

In freshly manured land, the roots often grow awkward

and ill shaped. It is better to sow as early in the spring as the ground can be

made ready, but if planting is necessarily delayed until late in the season, soak

the seed 24 hours in tepid water, dry by mixing in sifted ashes or plaster, and

sow on freshly prepared soil.

Bemarks. — In drills would be best, the author thinks, as explained in the

pose.

the previous year.

item referred to.

Pickled Carrots for Table Use.

—A recent writer in the Rural New

Yorker says, under this head: " Wash and scrape, boil until tender, cut into

quarters of convenient length, and cover with vinegar.

It is the best way to

prepare carrots for the table."

Remarks. If the vinegar is properly spiced, this plan makes them very

—

palatable.

Beans Should Always be Cooked in Soft Water.— A. C. Ar"I notice those who tell how to cook beans

nold, of Stamford, Conn., says:

omit to say that soft water must always be used in beans, otherwise some of

them will remain hard a fact that I learned in the army."

Remarks. It is imdoubtedly better to use soft water for cooking generally,

when it can be done. The same man sends the next item also, through the

—

—

Blade, and as it is a thing needed in every household that ever cooks apples, I

—

540

CHASE'S RECIPES.

I>It.

give

•will

it

a place.

His measurements are correct to make a suitable-sizea

corer.

Apple Corer, to Make— Size to Cut the Tin, Etc.— Cut the tin

3 by 4 inches and roll it up to be 4 inches long, and

inch in diameter, at the

smallest end, as it should be a very little larger at the other end, to withdraw

^

easily.

Remarks.

—If a small wire

is put into the large end before rolling up, it will

not hurt the hand to push it through the apple, without which, it would soon

injure the hand.

1.

Silverware, to Brighten with Little Labor.—When

it is

desirable to brighten silverware without a formal scouring, prepare some pieces

of silver cloth, as follows:

Obtain hartshorn (carbonate of ammonia), 2 ozs.,

powdered or broken up finely, and boil it in 1 pt. of soft water. Dip suitable

pieces of muslin in the liquor and hang up to dry without wringing.

When

dry, fold closely and put away for use.

Simply rubbing the silver with one of

Never put soap on

these pieces will surprise you by its improved app/earance.

silverware, if you wish to keep its original lustre.

2.

Frosted Silverware, How to Clean. Frosted ornamentation

on silverware should never be cleaned with powder, but only with a soft brush

and strong lye (from wood ashes, strained, or from concentrated lye or potash),

accompanied by rinsings with soft water. After the frosted parts are properly

dry, the smooth parts should be rubbed carefully with powder. Harper's Bazar,

Remarks. —The silver-cloth in next recipe above, will do nicely for the

smooth part.

—

—

3. Polish for Silverware. In place of using Paris white for a dry

powder to polish the smooth parts of silverware, the following will be found

better:

Put 4 ozs. of Paris white into soft water, 1 pt., and boil it; when cool,

bottle it, and add one oz. of aqua ammonia.

Rub with a cloth wet with this

mixture, shaken, and polish with chamois.

—Wet nitrate of silver

much water as tincture. Then

Stains from Nitrate of Silver, to Hemove.

stains with discolored tincture of iodine in as

Tub the stained spot with a piece of cyanide of potassa. It fades out, or changes

at once (or the hyposulphite of soda will do, and is not poison), then wash

immediately with water. Always use soft water if you can. This is from a

photographer, and reliable.

Cabbage, to Destroy the Cut-worm of, and to Prevent Clubfeet.

— Sprinkle a table-spoonful of salt around each plant as set out, and mix

slightly with the soil.

Thus, you "kill two birds with one stone," besides it is

a good fertilizer.

I have seen more than half the plants set out in a garden

patch, which were cut off the first night.

This little trouble saves the loss, and

makes them grow faster, too.

[See also, cut worms to destroy.

Crickets, to Drive Away or Destroy.— Put Scotch snuflf into their

holes.

It is too much for them, and I think it would be more than roachea

C50uld stand the presence of.

Put into crevices with a feather.

1,

Chimneys, How to Build to Avoid Burning Out.— When

MISCELLANEOUS.

chimneys, keep

building

a mortar-board

of

541

mortar for the purpose of

them upon the inside as the work goes on, tempered up by adding

one-fourth as much common salt as of mortar, which forms a glaze that soot

can not stick to, and hence there is none to bum. " Prevention is better than

plastering

cure."

2.

Cliimneys, to Build to Avoid Smoking.—A builder of long

" To build a chimney that shall not smoke, give a large space

experience says:

immediately above the throat, vrhich will cause a draft.

rowed, if desirable." This is good logic.

3.

It

may then be nar-

Chimneys, Sky-lights, etc., to Stop Leaks.— Take fine, white

sand, 20 measures; litharge, 2; freshly slacked lime, 1;

mix evenly together,

dry; then wet to the consistence of soft putty with boiled linseed oil.

It sets

quickly, and forms a hard and durable cement.

1.

Moths in Carpets, to Prevent. —Wet the floor around the edge

of the room thoroughly with spirits of turpentine before laying the carpet,

apply with a brush as you wo '.Id paint; it kills the nits or eggs under the base,

and also prevents further nesting.

Salt sprinkled freely about the

edge and

over the whole carpet, while sweeping, is not only a preventive, but it also helps

to remove dirt, and if damp, prevents dust from rising while sweeping.

2. Moths in Carpets, To Destroy, Without Taking Up.—

On parts of a carpet where moths are suspected lay a coarse towel, slightly

wrung out of clear water, spreading out smoothly; then place a piece of firm

wrapping paper upon the wet towel to keep in the steam, and iron it thoroughly

with a hot iron. If thoroughly done, the heat and steam kills them. Repeat

at any time if satisfied more have hatched and come out from under the base

or other hiding places.

It does not injure the carpet, nor fade the colors, and

TJie

does not need hard pressure, as it is the heat and steam that kills them.

Household.

3. Moths in Upholstered Furniture, Certain Remedy, Also

Good for Furs, Flannels, etc. — A writer in one of tlie Grand Rapids'

fMich.) papers says, upon these subjects: "A sort of trade sscret among

upholsterers for ridding upholstered furniture of moths, is the following"; and

gives an example: "

A set of furniture that seemed to be alive with the larvae

(the insect moth in its first stage of development,) from the time it came

new,

and from which hundreds of these pests had been picked and brushed, was set

in a room by itself.

Three gallons of benzine were purchased at 30 cents a gallon, retail.

Using a small watering pot with a fine rose sprinkler, the whole

upholstery was saturated through and through with the benzine. Result

Every moth, larvae and egg were killed. The benzine dried out in a few hours,

and its entire odor disappeared in 3 or 4 days. Not the slightest harm happened

to the varnish, or wood, or fabrics, or hair stuffing.

That was months ago, and

not a sign of a moth has since appeared. The carpets were also well sprinkled

For furs, flannels,

all round the sides of the room, with equally good effect.

indeed, all woolen articles containing moths, benzine is most valuable. Put

I>^'

S43

CEASE'S RECIPES.

them in a box; sprinkle with benzine, close the box tightly, and in a day or two

the pests will be exterminated, and the benzine will evaporate on opening."

Remarks. In using benzine, as stated in connection with cleaning gloves,

—

remember there must be no fire nor lamp burning, as the vapor of it carries the

fire to the stuff itself, which is very inflammable, and explosive. With this care

it is safe.

4.

Moth Powder, To Put Away Purs, Woolens, etc.—Lupulin

Scotch snuff, 2 ozs. ; powdered gum camphor and black

(flour of hops), 1 dr.

;

pepper, each, 1 oz.

cedar sawdust, 4 ozs.

;

Mix thoroughly, and strew (or put

in small paper bags) among the furs or woolen goods (after they have been

thoroughly whipped with small rods) which are being put away.

This powder

But if moth eggs have already

been laid in them, unless the whipping takes them out, they will hatch and

5tart their destructive work, unless the benzine or some other " killer" is used;

hence it is best to keep an eye on them occasionally, and whip thoroughly again

if any are seen.

This whipping the moth and their eggs out. then sealing up

in boxes or paper bags, is from the Boston Transcript, which adds: "If you

shut moths out, and shut none in, you are perfectly safe. " Not a doubt of it.

contains some of all the best-known preventives.

Cracks and Small Holes in Walls, To Fill.—Mix plaster of Paris

to the consistency of soft putty, and apply immediately and smooth with a caseknife, will make it as nice as a mason would

it sets

do it.

Mix but little at a time as

quickly, unless you work it over every minute or two; but after it "sets" or

becomes hard it is not good even to work over after that. If you have a nice,

white sand, a little of it may be mixed in, but it does very well without it.

ONIONS— Medicinal Effects Against Worms in Children and

Colds in the Chest. — A mother writes to HanVs (Eng.) Advertiser upon

these matters (which, also in my own judgment, maybe relied upon) as follows:

"Twice a week invariably— and it was generally when we had cold meat

—

minced I gave the children a dinner which was hailed with delight and looked

forward to; this was a dish of boiled onions. The little things know not that

they were taking the best of medicine for expelling what most children suffer

from worms. Mine were kept free with this remedy alone. Not only boiled

onions for dinner, but chives also they were encouraged to eat with their bread

and butter, and for this purpose they had tufts of chives in their gardens. It

was a medical man who taught me to eat boiled onions as a specific (positive

—

cure) for a cold in the chest.

He did not know at the time, until I told him,

that they were good for anything else."

The editor adds: "A case is now under

our own observation in which a rheumatic patient, an extreme sufferer, finds

great relief from eating onions freely, either cooked or raw.

He insists that it

by no means a fancy, and he says so after having persistently tried Turkish

baths, galvanism, and nearly all the potions and plasters that are advertised aa

is

certain alleviates or cures."

—

Remarks. For the author's opinion, and that of others, as to the value of

onions as an alterative, see Medical Department upon them as an alterative.

Onion Culture—The Newest Way. — The

following

item was

MISCELLANEOUS.

543

recently published in the Evening Post, of Toledo, and I give it a place that

my

readers may judge for themselves whether they will continue to.drill their rows

only about a foot apart and cultivate wholly by hand or drill at least two feet

apart and use the horse hoes or cultivator, which will, of course, require more

land to raise a certain amount of bushels. This must, or ought to, be governed by the amount of land one has, and also more particularly upon the

amount of help which one has to aid in the hand part of the culture; for the

thinning out the plants, as well as pulling the weeds within an inch or two of

the row, must, in all cases, be done by hand. The writer says: " Onions will

thrive in any soil, with proper fertilizers and good cultivation, yet they produce

more profitably on old onion land, annually fertilized

Drilling in the seed and

cultivating with horse power is a great improvement

upon the old method.

The rows should be far enough apart to cultivate with a horse hoe. This takes

more land but pays best, where not very large onions are desired. Thinning

onions so that only 1 is left to 3 or 4 inches of ground is being abandoned by

onion culturists, as medium-sized bulbs demand better prices in most city

markets.

culture.

Everything which can promote rapid growth is essential in onion

A drill set to drop

It is better to sow the seed too thick than too thin.

2 or 3 seeds to each inch of a row answers the purpose best."

—

Remarks. Unless my ground was very rich and had been previously cultivated with onions, to have the weeds "well in hand," I should certainly prefer

hoi to have more than one seed to an inch at the very most.

3.

Onions,

How Many Can be Raised to the Acre.—This

C[uestion being often asked, should be judiciously answered, lest

some person

may be led into the business too extensively for his knowledge of how it must

"be done, as the

Ohio Farmer speaks of, from a report that D. M. Ferry, of De-

Mich., grew 600 bushels of onions on an acre, and for which he was

offered $3.50 a bushel, or $1,500 from an acre; and this, says the Farmer, led a

farmer who heard of it, and knew no more of onion growing than he did of

troit,

Sanskrit, to plant 5 acres of common com land in onions, the next season, the

seed costing him $100. He didn't grow a bushel of marketable onions. Had

he studied up the subject and planted the first season ^^ or J^ of an acre, he

might now be a successful onion grower, whereas he indulges in profanity at

the smell of an onion.

Remarks. But over 700 bushels have been raised to the acre, on a field of

7 acres, as the Congregationalist, of Boston, shows by the following in answer

to an inquiry of a correspondent, who asked: "How many onions can be raised

to the acre ? " To which the editor makes this statement: " In answer to the

above, we give a letter received recently from Deer Island, Boston Harbor,

where one of the public institutions of Boston is located. ' In reply to yours

—

of this date, I would say that in the year 1869, we raised, on 7 acres of land,

5,000 bushels of onions, good measure.

bushels of onions.

The onions grew very large.

that averaged 1 pound each.

Remarks.

—^But now,

% ^^

% ^^re 486

I selected and had measured off

acre of land where the crop was the best, and measured

from this

I sent 1 bushel to the fair

'

it is not to be understood that this

was done on poorly

DR CEASE'S RECIPES.

544

prepared soil, but rather soil adapted to them (a sandy loam is considered best),

and previously, no doubt, cultivated to onions, having been well manured and

well worked.

4.

Onions, How to Avoid Scullions.

—Notwithstanding some peo-

from " D," of Fenton,

Mich, through the Post and Tribune, of Detroit, in answer to a query of L. C.

Zarbell, on avoiding scullions, says: " I will tell him what an old gardener says,

and that is to draw the earth away gradually from the bulbs until they are quite

uncovered and only the fibrous roots are in the earth, and you will never have

scullions, but very large, sound onions.

The seed should be sown very early to

have the benefit of the coolness and moisture of early spring."

ple think that scullions will be scullions, the following

5.

Onion Baising, Value of Wood Ashes as a Manure for. —A

upon this subject says: Farmers who

writer in one of the agricultural papers

are so fortunate as to have an open fire-place, should place, as an offset to the

cost of the wood, the value of the ashes produced.

For onions there is no fer-

wood ashes, as they require a great deal of potash. Market

gardeners and others who make a specialty of growing onions will understand

tilizer equal to

that to succeed with the crop they need larger supplies of potash than they will

ordinarily receive from barn-yard manures.

—

Remarks. I am unable to see why ashes from a stove are not better than

from an open fire-place, as above named, as those from a stove are certainly

more thoroughly burned, and hence must be stronger and better. Although

wood ashes are undoubtedly an excellent manure for onions, yet well rotted stable

manure must be the principal dependence, except with those who have plenty

of hog manure, which has long been considered the best, but chiefly, no doubt,

because it is more free from weed, and grass seeds, than stable manure; yet,

where much corn and corn meal are fed to hogs, their manure is more than

ordinarily rich.

The following is a summing up of the whole matter of raising onions.

6. An Acre in Onions.— TTnder this head recently, the Chicago Times

gave such minute instructions upon the whole question of onion raising, I will

close the subject by giving it entire; as I deem the subject to be of such importance as to justify all that has been said, and that this item will add to it; for

there is not a doubt but what onions are the most healthful vegetable grown,

being a valuable alterative, as well as nourishing, and also an article for which

there will always be a reasonable demand in the cities.

The Times says:

" "Few farmers seem to realize the fact that as much money may be obtained

from au acre of land in onions as from a 40 acre farm devoted to the usual

crops.

At present prime onions are worth $4.00 per barrel by the car-load, and

250 barrels may be, and not unfrequently are, produced from an acre of land.

Let no one, however, expect to realize $1,000 from an acre in onions who does

not pay the best attention to the crop.

To begin with, land naturally adapted

to producing the crop should be selected.

Experiments made in the eastern

states, where large quantities of onions are raised for the southern market, show

that there is no better soil for onions than that of a reclaimed bog.

[Equivalent to our western marshes, wliich have been drained and well cultivated.]

Of course the land must be well drained and the surface soil decomposed by

MISCELLANEOUS.

545

exposure to the action of the atmosphere. Most of our black prairie soils are

The turf must

suitable to the production of onions if they are rightly treated.

become eniirely rotted and mixed with the earth below. Land that has been in

pasture for several years is easily prepared for a crop of onions, as the turf is

comparatively thin, while the soil is quite free from weeds. That portion of a

pasture on which cattle and sheep lie at night may be converted into an onionpatch to excellent advantage.

"A field for onions should be very nearly level.

it,

If there are elevations in

the soil on them will be likely to wash away, carrying off the seed before it

germinates, or leaving part of the onions exposed to the sun.

A piece of land

intended for onions should be entirely free from the seeds of weeds in the start,

and there should be a determination on the part of the grower to allow none to

attain any considerable size.

a paying crop.

Absolutely clean cultiire is essential to producing

Neglect in this matter will cause a vast amount of work, which

all, insure a good crop.

A field of onions cannot be neglected

on account of a demand for labor on other parts of a farm. Unless a farmer

has help that can attend to his field of onions during the season of plowing

corn, cutting grass and harvesting grains, it will be better not to attempt to

raise the crop at all.

The care of onions, however, calls for light work, which

may be chiefly performed by old men, partial invalids, women and children.

Persons who cannot perform heavy work on the farm may engage in onion-

will not, after

raising to excellent advantage.

" It is useless to undertake to raise a paying crop of onions on land that is

not very highly manured. From 30 to 50 loads of manure should be applied to

an acre of land designed for producing this crop. It should be well rotted and

Unleached ashes form a valuable addifree from the seed of grass and weeds.

After a piece of land has been prepared for

tion to composted stable manure.

onions it is best to continue the crop for a series of years.

feeders,

it

will,

As onions are gross

of course, be necessary to apply a coating of manure every

The soil of an onion-field should be well pulverized and the manure

thoroughly incorporated with it. After it is plowed and harrowed a roUer

should be employed for crushing the lumps.

season.

" Many growers employ a hand-rake for fining the soil before the seed is.

About 4 lbs. of seed are required for an acre. It should be the product

The seed may be tested

[I would never use old seed.]

by counting out a certain number and placing them on some moist cotton laid

In a saucer.

If good, it will germinate in 3 or 4 days.

The seed should be

sown as early in the spring as it is possible to prepare the land. Growers who

ftim to get the largest yield from a given amount of land allow only the space

of a foot between the rows.

There is a drill which plants two rows of onioQ

seed at once.

If sown by hand one seed should be dropped every inch.

In

order to mark the rows it is well to drop a radish seed every 5 or 6 inches

[merely to point out the row so you can cultivate varieties]. The radishes will

grow very rapidly, and will be large enough to pull before the onions attain

sufficient size to be injured by their presence.

If there is no market for rad-

fiown.

of the previous season.

ishes in the vicinity, cabbage plants may be raised in their place.

sufficient size they

may be pulled and transplanted.

35

When of

DR. CHASE'S RECIPES.

546

"The cultivation of onions must be chiefly performed by means of hand

tools.

[See No. 2.]

The shuffle hoe is the best implement for doing most of

and great pains should be taken to

keep it clean and sharp. After the plants are about four inches high they must

be thinned so that each has a space of about three inches in which to grow.

Some growers who seek to raise very large crops allow three onions to grow in

the space of six inches.

Of course, they crowd each other after they have

become of nearly full size, but this thick setting is necessary to secure the maximum yield. After they are thinned to the proper distance nothing is required

byway of cultivation except to keep the soil light and free from weeds."

Remarks. I hardly suppose it would "pay big" if every person in the

land should engage in raising onions, or even to put out and properly cultivate

"an acre;" but of this there is no probable danger. But if those who do go

into it from what has been here said upon the subject do not do it well, it will

not be the fault of the author. [See, also, " Cucumbers, a Paying Crop."]

the work.

It should be of the best quality,

—

CEMENTS.—Dr. Choris' Magic Mender, or " Boss " Cement.

—Acetic acid, 4 Fs—the strongest—2

lbs. ;

French

isinglass, 1 lb.

Boil in a

porcelain kettle.

—

Remarks. I paid $5 for this recipe, and the above is all there was of it.

The man, however, was selling it upon the street corners of this city (Toledo),

and seeing what it would do, I paid the money, but was allowed to go with him

and see it made.

acid, 2 lbs.

He bought the isinglass in a 1 lb. package for $1.25, and the

for 50 cents, including the bottle, and he

had a 1 gal. porcelain

kettle with him, and first put the acid in and placed it on the stove in the hotel,

kitchen where he was stopping, and when it was about boiling hot he took the

package of isinglass by the end and stirring the acid with it it soon dissolved down

near his fingers; then he dropped all in, and with a sliver from the wood, stirred

it around a little all the time till it was dissolved; then commenced bottling it

directly, by pouring some into a milk pitcher and then into the bottles, keeping

the rest hot until all was poured in.

He charged not to allow it to burn; and I

afterwards found it would burn easily, hence he was careful of this, as it blackens and destroys it. He said the isinglass generally cost him $1.25 per lb.; the

acid, 15 to 25 cents per lb.; J^ oz., square, flint glass bottles, $1.25 per gross, in

6 gross lots, in Pittsburgh; and the corks, 12 cents per gross, in Cleveland, in

5 gross

lots.

I

have made it in those quantities and placed

stores and know its value.

it

on sale in the

It was first shown at the Centennial in Philadelphia,

under the name of " English Stratena," and the following rhyming, as given

on some of the hand-bills wrapped around the bottles, will show

What it is Good for.—

For the carpenter putting his frame together.

For the shoemaker working on fancy leather.

For putting patches on boots so nice.

And it holds them on as tight as a vice;

For splicing belts and mending harness,

Lam])s, chimneys, or looking-glasses;

For the clerk at his desk pronounces it safer

Than any description of wax or wafer;

MISCELLANEOUS.

547

For mending sugar bowls or ladles,

For mending canes, clocks, or babies' cradles;

For mending all dishes with ease,

On which you can put bread, butter, and cheese;

And every housewife, too, declares

It beats the world on broken chairs;

For fancy boxes, chessboards, stands;

For picture frames and ivory fans;

For broken tables, writing cases;

For fractured lamps, Bohemian vases.

All articles of glass or bone;

For marble, porcelain, or stone.

For fancy figures, busts of plaster;

For images in alabaster.

For meerschaum pipes it can't be beat

It's all the better for the heat.

In billiard halls it's largely used

For putting tips upon the cues.

For hobby-horses, wood of skates,

Dolls, hoops, and broken slates;

For parasol handles, tips, and hooks;

For fastening loosened leaves in books.

In fact, 'twould take too long to mention

All uses of this new invention;

"Whatever else there is about it,

Whoever tries it ne'er does without it.

Remarks.— 'Where glue will answer the purpose, it will, of course, be found

much cheaper (see No. 3); but for all nice work, if carefully made, without

burning; it will be found to beat

it,

isinglass, hence its value for dishes.

as

it

takes considerable heat to dissolve

I sealed the bottles with No. 2 sealing wax,

red. for bottling medicines.

2. Cement for Tin Cans.— Into a small saucepan—block-tin is best-^

put 1 lb. of rosin, \4: 'b. of gum-shellac and 2 ozs. of beeswax. Melt this and

mix well with an old iron spoon

—both spoon and saucepan must be devoted to

the purpose, for they will be useless for all others.

When the cans are ready

for sealing, pour a fine stream of hot cement from the spoon into the groove as

directed.

It is better to fill it only half full, and

give each one an additional coating.

while it is hot.

when all the cans are finished,

Stick labels on the can with this wax

In opening them, crack the wax, and with a pair of scissors or

Brush off the dust; pry up the lid, and the balance

Be careful that none of it falls into the fruit.

Put the scraps of wax into the saucepan, and it will help towards sealing next

season's cans.

Mrs. Z. V. M. A., Morrisonville, III., in Prairie Farm.

claw, loosen a portion of it.

of the wax will come off easily.

3. Cement, "White and Cheap, with Glue, for General Purposes. Best white glue, 1 lb.; gum-shellac, 1 oz. alcohol, 4 ozs.; aqua

ammonia, 1 oz. soft water, 2)/^ pts.

dry, pulverized white lead, 4 ozs.

Directions Dissolve the shellac in the alcohol, to have it ready; then put the

glue in the water, in a basin which can be set in a pan of w^ater upon the stove

BO as to dissolve the glue without burning it; when the glue is dissolved, but

—

;

;

—

;

—

CEASE'S RECIPES.

-Di?.

548

hot, stir in the powdered lead and the dissolved shellac; then add the

ammonia, to keep it in liquid form, and bottle.

Remarks. It is valuable for everything except materials where its whiteness would be an objection.

Glue is always best to be applied hot, and to hot

edges when practicable, but with this it is not necessary. Everything, however, must be kept in place till dry.

Leather belts or cloth must be weighted

still

—

till

dry.

—

4. China and Glass Cement. A writer says: "To 1 pt. of milk

add 1 pt. of vinegar; separate the curds from the whey, and mix the whey with

the whites of five eggs; beat it well together, sifting into it a sufficient quantity

Broken china or glass mended

with this cement will not again separate, and will resist the action of fire and

of quicklime to convert it into a thick paste.

-water."

—The curd

and quicklime means the unslacked lime,

I cannot see, however, why, if the

lime is only recently burned, and good, it may not be slacked, and the finest

powder of it used. Oyster shells burned make an excellent lime for cementing

with white of eggs. I have used it. A lime of these may be used in the above

Remarks.

is not used,

but pulverized very finely before sifting in.

if

very finely pulverized.

5.

Cement for Marble and Alabaster.— Portland Cement, 12 parts;

slacked lime and fine white sand, each 6 parts; infusorial earth, 1 part.

into a thick paste, with silicate oi soda.

is not readily found.

Remarks.

Make

Needs no heat; sets in 24 hours; crack

Druggists' Circular.

—As stated in other places, where "parts" are mentioned,

it

matters not what sized measure is used, whether a spoon, pint or peck, or if

weights, whether it be drs., ozs. or lbs. Simply 12, 6 and 1, in this case, would

be the number to use, or the proportions to keep.

6. Japanese Cement, To Make— Strong and Colorless—For

Fancy Paper "Work, Etc. — Mix the best powdered rice with a little cold

water; then gradually add boiling water till a proper consistency is acquired,

being careful to keep it well stirred all the time; lastly, it must be boiled for

one minute in a clean saucepan. This paste is beautifully white, almost transparent, and weil adapted for fancy paper work, or other things requiring a

strong and colorless cement.

Coffee-Pots, Tea-Pots, Tin Saucepans, Etc., To Clean Inside.

—When the inside of a coffee or tea-pot has become black from long

use, fill it

with soft water; throw in a small piece of hard soap, and boil it from 3^ to 1

hour; and it will be as "bright as a new button," without labor or expense.

When tin sauce-pans become

'

'

grimmy " or dark from use, do the same with

result.

Cover while boiling. Then

them, and you will be pleased with the

scald out well and all is complete.

Bust, to Bemove from Stovepipe.— Rub a very little raw hnseed

oil upon it,

which stops its further eating; then dry it with a moderate fire,

after which polish may be used if desired', but polish does not stop the deeper

MISCELLANEOUS.

549

corrosion, creating into the pipe; hence, after a little, it will again show through

the polish, unless the oil is first used.

Barrels and Other Wooden Vessels, to Cleanse.— Barrels for

wine, or cider, also vessels for culinary purposes, holding food, etc., are ren-

dered fit for immediate use by a solution of sal-soda, says the Journal of Ghemistry, thus: " An ordinary barrel should be filled half full of water, and a solution of about 2 lbs. of the soda in as much water as will dissolve it, poured in,

and the liquids thoroughly mixed by shaking the barrel, which should then be

filled to the bung with water, and allowed to remain from 13 to 14 hours; then,

after withdrawing the discolored liquid, it should be well rinsed and filled with

pure water, and should remain a few hours more, when it will be fit for use.

Other wooden utensils may be similarly treated.

Remarks. The soda should be fully dissolved in 3 or 4 qts. of water, by

—

heat, before putting in.

If not much musty, 1 lb, of soda will do.

Cauliflowers, to Raise Successfully.— To raise this delicious species of cabbage, successfully, it is necessary to plow very deep, and upon a good

or well manured soil for the roots of the cauliflower, by the middle of August

have been known to penetrate to the depth of 3 feet. The main, or upper

roots, however, extend horizontally, and are more numerous than the penetrating ones.

The seed should be sown in rich soil, heavily fertilized and well

pulverized, in frames, or hot houses, and should be transplanted while small;

and, at first, like cabbages, the plants ought to be frequently hoed and the dirt

well loosened about them. Every morning was my rule with cabbage, and I

always had good ones; but after they are well established, they do not need so

;

much care.

1.

EGGS—How to Preserve Them, Four Plans. — Whatever

What I have found to be the

most successful method of doing so, is to place a small quantity of salt butter

in the palm of the left hand and turn the egg around in it, so that every pore

of the shell is closed; then dry a suflicient quantity of bran in an oven (be sure

you have the bran well dried). Then pack them with the small ends down in

a layer of bran and another of eggs until your box is full then place in a cold,

dry place. If done when newly-laid, they will retain the sweet milk and curd

of a new laid egg for at least 8 or 10 months. Any oil will do, but salt butter

never becomes rancid, and a very small quantity of butter will do a very large

quantity of eggs. To insure freshness, I rub them when gathered in from the

nests; then pack when there is a sufficient quantity.

E. Alexander.

excludes the air prevents the decay of the egg.

;

—

2. Eggs, to Keep from September to May. This receipt is from

Mrs. Wm. Church, who says: " The best way she finds is to take a pot or pail,

—I gen—being a farmer's wife I generally have on

or anything convenient, put about an inch or two of bran of any kind

erally take shorts

hand

—in

from flour

it

put a layer of eggs,