Mre. E. S. Swartsy, in the Housekeeper,

of Minneapolis, Minn., gives us her recipe, which she says is delicious. " One

colander of sliced, green tomatoes; 1 qt. sliced onions; 1 colander of pared

and sliced cucumbers; 2 handfuls of salt; let stand 24 hours. (I should think

over night was long enough.) Then drain and add celery seed and allspice,

each

oz.

1 tea-spoonful of pepper; 1 table-spoonful of tumeric (this is only

for color a yellow shade); 1 lb, of brown sugar; 2 table-spoonfuls of mustard,

^

;

—

and 1 gallon of vinegar.

—

Remarks. 'I should think a small head of cabbage, and 1 of cauliflower

might be added also, with satisfaction; and it would be more Yankeefied, if all

Were chopped, and the vinegar put on hot. The currie vinegar, above, would

be nice on some, of any kind of pickles, for a change.

1.

APPLES— Dried and Evaporated, How to Cook.— A lady

in one of the Rurals becomes enthusiastic over dried apples, and tells us how to

cook them, with which the author so fully agrees that he gladly gives it a place.

She also covers the ground of cooking the evaporated apples prepared by the

manufactories, but they sell so high I am glad to be able to give a plan, in the

next recipe, of drjing at home so they shall be nearly if not quite equal to those

of the manufactories. This lady says: " After the apples are well washed and

irinsed in at least

t/>

two waters, place them in a porcelain kettle or tin pan; fill

on the size of

vessel nearly full of cold water; this, however, must depend

MISCELLANEOUS.

583

Let them very gradually come to

As soon as they are boiling put in as

the vessel and the quality of the apples.

boiling, keeping them covered tightly.

much sugar as you think will be required.

I generally use a tea-cupful to 1 qt.

of apples, measured before being washed.

Keep a tea-kettle full of boiling

water always ready when you are cooking, and while the apples are stewing add

Boil them slowly and steadily

boiling water from time to time, as it is needed.

If you use

until tender, but not until they seem to shrink up and turn dark.

white or brown sugar, and don't add spices, and don't mash the apples into aa

unsightly mass, and have plenty of juice, with sugar enough to make it rich,

but not to deaden its taste of the apple, and serve up while fresh, you can have

a dish good enough for anybody to eat, and something better than half the

canned fruit in use.

" The evaporated apples are better than the dried.

ered with cold water and only let simmer 10 minutes.

They should be covThey are not in general

I must not omit to mention that the juice of nicely

stewed dried apples is a delicious beverage for the sick, and possesses a flavor

use, and are of high price.

peculiarly refreshing and grateful, especially where there is fever."

Remarks.

—This lady

is perfectly correct in the

the important part of cooking dried apples.

idea that plenty of juice is

They should also be covered, as

she says, while cooking, and although they ought to be cooked tender, yet they

should not be done to pieces nor mashed. In this manner, as the girls sa-y

now-a-days, "They are just splendid,"

2.

— no better sauce made, for me.

Drying Fruit at the Manufactories, and Home-Drying.—

At a recent meeting of

the Ohio State Horticultural Society, at Canton,

Mr. James Edgerton read a paper upon the modern methods of drying or evaporating fruits. Mr. S. B. Mann, of Adrian, Mich., in response to requests from

the members, gave an account of a fruit-drying establishment in his town, iu

which five large Alden machines were used. It had cost $10,000, and had paid

Its capacity was 400 bushels every 24 hours.

It gave

for itself in five years.

employment to 50 or 60 hands, chiefly girls, working in 2 sets, day and night,

paring and cutting the fruit. The benefit to the community from the establishment was great, and the neighboring farmers would be sorry to lose it from

among them. Mr. Mann said, for the benefit of the ladies, that if they would

slice fruit across, in thin slices, place it on trays in the sun, covered with thin

muslin cloth, they could dry fruit which would closely resemble that prepared

by the Alden process. Mosquito netting was not so good for covering as thin

cloth.

In the Alden process, the white color was obtained by driving the fumes

of sulphur through the dryer. (See "Evaporated Fruit.")

These thin sliced apples ought to be dried on wooden trays, not on old tin,

by any means. "Wooden trays might be easily made about 2 feet long and 15

to 20 inches wide, by nailing pieces of lath, slit up to 34^ or

square, nailed on

end cleats, with a lath of full width on the ends of the cleats running the whole

length, to form sides, to prevent the apples from slipping off the square bits

of lath forming the bottom, nailed about }4, inch apart, to allow air to pass up

through; the side lath going down a little, say }<l incli below the bottom ones,

win'ch would thus allow the free passage of air under and up tlirough the hot*

%

—

DB. CEASE'S RECIPES.

584

The thin, or cheap muslin covering preventing the sun from turning the

torn.

fruit dark colored, and the wood has

of the apples, or other fruit.

no tendency, either, to darken the shade

When once made they last for years, with proper

care.

Canning Fruit. —The Manchester Mirror gives the following tables for

time to boil, and the amount of sugar to each quart jar:

Ounces,

Minutes.

Boil cherries moderately

"

"

raspberries

"

"

blackberries

5

6

6

"

10

plums

"

8

strawberries

5

whortleberries"

10

pie plant, sliced

30

small sour pears, whole.

20

Bartlett pears, in halves.

c

8

peaches

15

peaches, whole

pineapple, sliced J^ la. thick 15

Siberian crab-apple, whole 25

10

sour apples, quartered

6

ripe currants

10

wild grapes...

20

tomatoes

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

*'

"

"

"

"

*

"

Remarks.

.

.

.

.

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

field blackberries

strawberries

whortleberries

quince

small sour pears, whole

wild grapes

peaches

8

8

4

Bartlett pears

6

pineapples

crab-apples

6

8

8

10

6

8

plums

pie plant

sour apples, quartered

ripe currants

—The plan of preparing fruit for canning

is so well

understood,

generally, it is not deemed necessary to give any more instruction than

in the tables.

6

4

6

6

8

4

10

For cherries

" raspberries

" Lawton blackberries

is

found

The sugar and the juices are calculated to make syrup enough

to fill the crevices.

If there is

no juice, in any case, a very little water must

be put in to start the juice and prevent the sugar from burning at the first.

1.

RATS— To Destroy or Drive Away. — Arsenic, bread, butter,

—

and sugar. Directions If arsenic is to be used, get J^ or J^ oz., and label

To use it, first spread some slices of

poison, and keep it away from children.

bread lightly with butter; then sprinkle on rather freely of the arsenic, and over

this with a little sugar, and with a case-knife press the sugar and arsenic well

into the butter, so they will not fall off.

Now, cut the slices of bread into

squares of half an inch or so, and drop into the rat-holes, out of the way of

children, chickens, and other animals which you do not wish to kill.

—

Remarks. The rats will eat enough of it to kill some of them, and as

soon as they begin to die the others will go away and remain a long time;

but as soon as they begin to show again repeat the dose, and this generally

makes a clear riddance of them.

2. Rats, To Get Rid of Without Poison, German Method.—

A German paper gives the following plan of doing this: "Having first for

some days placed pieces of cheese in a part of the premises, so as to induce the

rats to come in great numbers to their accustomed feeding-place, a piece of

One rat leaps at

cheese is fixed on a fish-hook about a foot above the floor.

Hereat all the other rats take sudden

this, and of course remains suspended.

Hlghtj and at once quit the house in a body."

MISCELLANEOUS.

585

—

Remarks. Possibly our Yankee rats may be too smart for this, but it

would make some amusement for the boys to try it, and it may prove satisfactory, especially if the hair of the one caught was singed enough to give a

smell, not to burn the rat, then allowed to run into the hole, has driven

them away many times.

3. Rats and Mice, Simple Exterminator.— Another German

newspaper gives the following simple method for exterminating rats and mice,

which, it states, has been successfully tried by one Baron Von Backhofen and

others for some time past: "A mixture of 2 parts of well-bruised common

squills and 3 parts of finely chopped bacon is made into a stiff mass, with as

much meal as may be required, and then baked into small cakes which are put

around for the rats to eat."

Remarks. Several correspc adents of the same paper afterwards wrote to

—

confirm the experience of the noble baron, as they call him, in the extermination of rats and

mice by this simple remedy.

It

must arise from the action

of the squills.

4.

says: "

Another Simple Remedy.— A writer in the Scientific American

We clean our premises of rats by making whitewash yellow with cop-

peras and covering the stones in the cellar with it.

In every crevice or hole

in which a rat may tread we put crystals of the copperas and scatter the same

in the corners of the floor.

The result was a perfect stampede of rats and mice.

Since that time not a footfall of either has been heard about the house. Every

spring a coat of the yellow wash is given the cellar as a purifier and rat exterminator, and no typhoid, dysentery or fever attacks the family.

Many persons

by leaving fruits and vegetables uncovered in the cellar, and sometimes even the soap is left open for their

regalement. Cover up everything eatable in the cellar and pantry, and you

will soon starve them out.

These precautions, joined to the services of a good

cat, will prove as good an exterminator as the chemist can provide.

We

deliberately attract all the rats in the neighborhood

never allow rats to be poisoned in our dwelling, they axe so liable to die between

the walls and produce much annoyance."

Remedy—

5. Another very Simple

Not Poisonous.— Take

equal quantities of rye meal, and unslacked, finely powdered lime, mix well,

dry, but water in flat dishes may be set near.

Put this on pieces of dry boards,

They will eat it readily, and soon become thirsty,

and go for the water which slacks the lime, and the gas destroys them quickly.

in places which they infest.

6.

Chloride of Lime—Put into their holes and scattered around the

cellar, or wherever they trouble you, will

absorb moisture, and then throw off

chlorine gas, which they do not like, and they generally leave

on the double

quick.

7.

Tar—Daubed into and around their holes they very much dislike, and

will not stay unless they can keep their feet clean; they are a very cleanly animal, and cannot bear to get daubed with any sticky stuff.

DR. CHASE'S RECIPES.

586

8.

Rats, Mice, Roaches, Bugs and other Vermin—to Destroy

—Phosphorus, 6 oz. flower of sulphur, 1 oz. cold water, 16 oz.,

;

;

(1 pt.); flower

mustard, 2 ozs. brown sugar, 8 ozs. rye flower, 12 ozs.

Directions First, rub the phosphorus and sulphur together, by adding

from time to time 6 ozs. of the water, then the mustard, the balance of the

t)f

;

;

—

Water, sugar, and lastly rye flour, and

stir to the

consistence of rather a soft

Put up in closely covered boxes or jars. Persons desiring to make only

email quantities for home use, will take drachms

% of the amounts. It is

to be spread freely upon slices of bread, and sugar sprinkled over it, and pressed down vdth the knife; then the bread cut into small squares and several of

them put in different places where the vermin will easily find them.

Tumerac or red saunders may be used for coloring by steeping some of the

paste.

—

water, if it is being made for sale.

—King says, in his Am. Dispensatory, that the above paste

Remarks

is con-

was first published by the Am.

Journal of Pharmacy, and may be relied upon. The phosphorus has a tensidered the best for the above purposes.

It

dency, of itself, to turn the paste to a reddish shade, in a little time after being

mixed.

Any of the foregoing plans will give satisfaction.

Dr. King's Dispen-

satory, I have had nearly 20 years, and always find it correct.

RATS, ROACHES, ANTS

royal, Potash

AND MOSQUITOES — Penny-

and Cayenne too much for them. — The Scientific

Amei'ican says:

1.

Against Mosquitoes. — If mosquitoes or other bloodsuckers infest

our sleeping rooms at night, we uncork a bottle of the oil of pennyroyal, and

these animals leave in great haste, nor will they return so long as the room is

loaded with the fumes of that aromatic herb.

—

2. Rats, to Drive Away. If rats enter the cellar, a little powdered

potash thrown in their holes, or mixed with meal and scattered in their run-

ways, never fails to drive them away.

—

3. Roaches, Ants, etc., to keep from the Buttery. Cayenne

pepper will keep the buttery and store room free froni ants and cockroaches.

If a mouse makes an entrance into any part of your dwelling, saturate a rag

with cayenne, in solution, and stuff it into the hole, which can then be repaired

with either wood or mortar. No mouse or rat will cut that rag for the purpose

of opening communication with a depot of supplies.

1. ROSE, OR SCALE BUGS—A New and Successful Remedy for. — At a recent meeting of the California Academy of Sciences, Dr.

Gibbons exhibited a large bunch of beautiful roses of exceeding fragrance, and

in full bloom, which he gathered from a bush in his garden that 2 months be-

fore was overrun with scale, or rose bugs, and nearly dead.

He applied to it

a mixture of crude petroleum and castor oil, daubing it slightly on the leaves

and stem, with a small brush, not allowing any to fall to the ground or reach

the roots. Rain followed, and the plants were then throwing out their first

growth of leaves, to which the scale bugs had been directing their attention.

No sign of any scale insect could be seen In the garden.

MISCELLANEOUS.

Remarks.

587

—He does not give the proportions; but equal parts miglit be used.

all.

I believe the crude petroleum to be the

See the next receipt for using kerosene to destroy Lice on Plants.

I think the kerosene would do as well, or perhaps better, on the rose-bugs than

the crude oil, and it can be put on handier with the atomizer than the thicker

I see no use for castor oil at

destroyer.

These bugs being on the under side of the leaf, the bush

must be bent over, or the atomizer carried under the leaves, as tobacco smoke

is done, or as the tobocco solution in No. 3.

oil with a brush.

2.

Lice on Plants— Successful Destroyer.

the California Horticulturist, having exhausted

all

the

—A correspondent of

known remedies

for

destroying plant lice and other minute forms of insect life which play upon

plants, resorted to coal oil (kerosene) which

proved a complete exterminator.

He says: " I procured from a druggist an atomizer, and filling the bottle with

kerosene, sprayed over a camelia to be experimented upon.

It was a very dirty

plant, branches and leaves covered not only with scale; but with black fungus;

a very small quantity sufficed to vaporize and cover the entire plant.

After the

evaporated and the plant was dry, the scales were found dead, shriv-

fluid had

eled, and partly detached, and with the slightest touch fell off; the black fungus,

also,

which everybody knows is so tenacious on the leaf, was dried up into a

loose powder, which a shake sent to the ground."

3.

Green Lice on Plants, To Destroy. —A writer says: "Steep

when the liquid is lukewarm, sprinkle the plants thoroughly with it. Two or three applications will cause them to hasten their

going, and generally prove sufficient to rid the plants entirely of them.

If it

tobacco in water, and

does not, repeat until the plants are free.

The natural dried leaf is best, in the

The above

proportion of one leaf to a quart of water, but any tobacco will do.

will not injure the

most delicate plant, and is better than smoke, so often

recommended

—

Remarks. This can be applied much the handiest with an atomizer or

garden syringe, and if either of these are thoroughly used success is certain.

4.

Rose-Bugs Killed by the Pyrethrum Powder, if Properlj/

— The Rural New Yorker, among its brieflets, says; "The increasa

Applied.

of the rose-bug is killed by pure

pyrethrum powder, if blown upon it through

a bellows.

Remarks.

i.

e.,

—There

is not a doubt

of this fact, when it is properly applied,

it is a soft skinned mite,

actually brought into contact with the bug, as

and the poison is thus absorbed which must kill it. The only trouble is in not

being thorough and careful enough to reach all the bugs.

The pyrethrum is

also known as the Caucasian or Persian insect powder.

It is imported from

there under these names, and is very effectual in the destruction of insects upon

which it is freely blown, except those like squash-bugs, which have a hard shell

The techto protect them, allowing no absorption of the poisonous substances.

nical name of the plant is pyrethrum roseum, from rosa, the rose, arising, probably, from the fact of its destructive power over the rose-bug; at least I so reason,

unless its own flames resemble the rose, wliich is not as likely to have originated

its name as the fact of its destructive powers over this insect.

—

DR.

588

;

CHASE'S RECIPES.

—

5. Rose-Bugs Killed in Air-Slacked Lime. Air-slacked lime,

M. P. in the Rural New Yorker, says will kill rose-bugs on grape-vines,

blown on in the same way as the pyrethrum powder; then why not kill them

when at home, on the rose? I know it must, if applied thoroughly to reach

them all. I should, however not want the lime to lose its strength by very

If, however, put on too freely, it may tarn the

long standing before using

leaves yellow, which is the only objection to its use.

S.

6. Insecticide, or Insects on Plants, to Kill with the Juice

of the Tomato Plant. A writer in the Deutsche-Zeitung states that he had

an opportunity of trying a remedy for destroying green fly and other insects

which infest plants.

It was not his own discovery, but he found it among

The stems and leaves of the tomato

other receipts in some provincial paper.

are well boiled in hot water, and when the liquor is cold it is syringed over the

plants attacked by insects.

It destroys black or green fly, caterpillars, etc.

—

and it leaves behind a peculiar odor which prevents insects from coming again

for a time.

He states that he found this remedy more effectual than fumigating, washing, etc.

Through neglect a house of camelias had become almost

hopelessly infested with black lice, but two syringings with tomato plant

decoction thoroughly cleansed them.

Gardeners' Chronicle.

Insects on Hot-House Plants, as Destroyed in Paris,

Baron Rothschild's gardener, at Paris, France, says he destroys all

the troublesome insects that may be in the hot-house, by vaporizing 2 qts. of

tobacco juice in the hot-house; and he considers the remedy infallible, and also

7.

France.

—

says it rarely injures the tenderest plants.

Remarks.

«

— He does not give the strength, but I should say 4 ozs. of tobacco

would be plenty for the 2 qts. of the juice, as he calls it; and I should expect

The vaporizing being done

the doors ought to be closed also while being done.

by setting the dish over a charcoal fire, on the plan of a tinman's heater used

for heating his soldering irons,

7.

Bugs on Squash and Cucimiber Vines, To Destroy with

—

Saltpeter. The following appeared in the Southern Husbandiimn: "To

destroy bugs on squashes and cucumber vines, dissolve a table-spoonful of saltpeter in a pail of water, put a pint of this around each hill, shaping the earth so

that it will not spread much, and the thing is done. The more saltpeter, if you

—

The bugs burit is good for vegetable but death to animal life.

row in the earth at night and fail to rise in the morning. It is also good to kill

grub in peach trees only use twice as much, say a quart to each tree. There

was not a yellow or blistered leaf on 12 or 15 trees to which it was applied last

can afford it

—

season.

No danger of killing any vegetable with it.

A concentrated solution

applied to beans makes them grow wonderfully."

Remarks.

— This same thing has been recommended also by the Wisconsi7b

State Journal, and I have seen an inquiry about the proportion to use, in another

paper, which answered 1 tea-spoonful to 1 gallon of water, or 1 table-spoonful

to a pail.

I do not believe that a }i lb. to a pail of water would hurt the plants,

as saltpeter is nitre, and this is naturally in the soil and is brought tothesurfacs

by shading the soil with clove a" e^en with a board

MISCELLANEOUS.

589

8 Bugs on Cucumber and Melon Vines, etc., Simple

Remedy. — "For the last five years," says a writer to the Chicago Times, "I

have not lost a cucumber or melon vine or cabbage plant. Get a barrel with a

few gallons of gas tar in it; pour water on the tar, always have it ready when

needed; and when the bugs appear, give them a liberal drink of the tar-water

from a garden sprinkler or otherwise, and if the rain washes it off and they

return repeat the dose.

It will also destroy the Colorado potato beetle, and

frighten the old long potato bug worse than a thrashing with a brush.

Five

years ago this summer both kinds appeared on my late potatoes, and I watered

with the tar-water. The next day all Colorados that had not been well protected

from the sprinkling were dead, and the others, though their name was legion,

were all gone, and I have never seen one of them on the farm since. I am

aware that many will look upon this with indifference because it is so cheap and

simple a remedy. Such should always feed both their own and their neighbors'

bugs, as they frequently do."

—

Remarks. The gentleman does not say how many gals, of tar to a bbl. of

See oiled-cloth for hot beds;

I should say 4 or 5 would be plenty.

boxes for hills, etc., which protects from bugs.

water.

9.

writer,

Squash, the Black Bug upon. —To Destroy. —A

—Hubbard

"M. A. M.," — to the Detroit Post and Tribune, from Mt. Morris,

says he destroys these black bugs by putting a shingle on the ground as near

the hills as possible, at night, and in the morning scraps the bugs off the shingle

If very thick, repeat 2 or 3 times a day as long as

they last. Don't forget; it is a sure remedy.

Remarks. I should hardly expect many would crawl under the shingles

into a bucket of hot water.

—

in the day time, unless the sun was very hot, as the day is their time of depre-

dation; but that in the night they would harbor under the shingle.

10. Bugs, on Squash, Cucumber and Melon Vines—Kept off

with Cayenne; also the Worm from Cabbage. — A farmer by the name

of Lynn, writes to one of the papers, that he has succeeded for many years in

driving away cucumber and squash bugs from his vines, by dusting cayenne

pepper upon them while wet with dew in the morning.

He repeats the opera-

tion once a week, and finds 5 cents worth sufficient to keep his cucumber, melon

and squash vines free during the season. He recently tried it upon the cabbage

I have no doubt a few tastes of the cayenne would be

enough for them. See remarks, also about boxes, after No. 8 above.

worm with success.

11.

Striped Bugs, to Destroy.

—Another farmer says: "Saturating

ashes with kerosene, and applying a handful in a hill will keep the striped bugs

from cucumbers.

It is not the bugs that recommend the recipe,

who have tried it.

It is said to be more effective than a legislative enactment.

but the people

—

Remarks. If it is good for cuciunbers, I will also warrant it as good for

melons and squashes.

FUNGUS—

In Cellars, to Destroy.— The use of sulphur to destroy

fungoid growths in greenhouses and vineries is well known to horticulturists.

The same remedy may be applied to destroy f ungiis and mould in cellars, in

—

—

DR. UHASE'S RECIPES.

590

many of which it exists to such an extent as to damage produce stored there.

Take some stick sulphur, generally called brimstone, but 'tis only sulphur in

and set fire to it, on a pan or kettle of coals is

the best plan; close the doors, making the cellar as nearly air-tight as possible

for a few hours, when the fungi will be destroyed and the mould dried up.

Repeat this simple and inexpensive operation every 2 or 3 months, and the cellar will be free from all parasitical growth.

Remarks.— 1 do not know the writer of this item, but I know the plan will

accomplish the work. Fungus is a parasitical growth of living bits of animal

life, meaning one only of the animals of which fungi is the plural, and means

the mass of these actual living growths.

stick form, and place in a pan

P.^STE.— Cement or Mucilage for Labels, Postage and

1.

Revenue Stamps, etc. — Soak good glue, 5 oz., in water, 20 oz., for one

day; after which add rock candy or loaf sugar, 9 oz., and gum arable, 3 oz.;

and when these are dissolved, it is ready to be spread on paper. It keeps well;

does not get brittle nor wrinkled, and does not make the sheets stick when they

Dingler's Polytechnic Journal.

are piled upon each other.

Remarks. This paper said "parts" instead of oz. The author has made it

plain for any one to understand; drachms or pounds can be substituted for ozs.

It will be found reliable.

The

just as well, according to the amount needed.

next receipt is from the same journal, and will be found equally reliable for

labeling letters, or bottles in damp cellars, as this gum stickum is for stamps and

—

common labeling.

2.

Paste, for Labels for Letters, Newspapers (Used by PrintDamp Cellars. "Stir into 1 lb.

ers), for Soda- Water Bottles, etc., for

of paste of glue and ryemeal, spirits of turpentine

this paste do not get loose in damp cellars.

—

% oz.

Labels attached with

But if for convenience sake it is

oz, and magne-

desired to gum the labels before using them, add oil-varnish

sia yi oz. to each lb. of the paste, then

%

gum them."

—

Remarks. See remarks with No. 1.

Make a good thick paste, with rye

with 2 ozs. glue, first dissolved in the water will be about right.

flour,

3.

Mucilage, Simple and Good.

—Put nice gum Arabic, J^

a ^^-pt. bottle, then fill it with soft water, and cork.

lb. into

Turn it bottom upwards

and shake occasionally for a day or two, or until dissolved, and it is ready to

use for putting paper together of any kind.

Remarks.

— made a quart of

I

it

using

1

lb.

of the

gum some 2 years ago,

for use when I had a quotation to put on in writing this book, and although

is sour, still it is just as good

as

when made.

cloves prevents it souring or moulding.

preventing it from souring.

It

it

It is said 3 or 4 drops of oil of

may prevent mould, but I doubt its

The souring does not hurt it, nor has mine moulded.

Some persons use as much gum tragacanth as they do of Arabic, say 2 ozs. each

% pt. of water. The tragacanth is a little harder to dissolve, and, of course,

to

is a little stronger also (see the next recipe), but the Arabic is good enough for

me. This might be called "scrap-book paste," or mucilage, as you choose. I

use it upon my little photos which I have for years attached to my letters put-

MISCELLANEOUS.

ting it upon the sheets, before I cut them apart

591

—and when dry they never have

stuck together, although a book is laid upon them to keep them flat.

It is

an

excellent mucilage.

Mucilage, for Fancy Work.

— Gum tragacanth, 1 oz., corrosive sub-

limate, a thimbleful, and soft water, l^^ pts.

solve, corking tightly.

Put into a bottle and let dis-

As it is poisonous, it

Stir occasionally with a stick.

The mucilage will keep for

should be kept out of the reach of children.

months.

Toledo Post.

Remarks. The sublimate being poisonous prevents insects from eating the

—

fancy work put together with

If

it.

it

is

too thin to suit any one, which I

should think it would be, add more powdered tragacanth to suit.

CEMENT, OR PASTE—New and Strong, That Sticks to

Leather, Wood, Stone, Glass, Porcelain, Ivory, Parchment, Paper,

Feathers, Wool, Cotton, Linen, and Even to Varnish.— A new

cement which is well spoken of is made by melting in an iron vessel equal parts

of common pitch and gutta-percha; it is not attacked by water, and adheres

firmly to leather, wood,

stone,

feathers, wool, cotton, linen,

glass,

porcelain,

and even to varnish.

parchment, paper,

Pansy, Stryker, Ohio, in

ivory,

Blade.

1.

Glue, Liquid, and Moth Glue.

—Take any sized

bottle,

and half

with whisky, and put in nice bits of glue to make it, when dissolved, which

it will do in two or three days, as thick as molasses.

It remains liquid, and is

good for any purpose that glue is used for.

fill it

For the moth glue, dissolve any amount of glue in as little water aa

it in another dish of water to prevent burning, then add

only one-fourth as much nice white sugar, by weight as you use of glue, and

when melted pour upon a slightly greased slab, or tin. Used by wetting the

glue in the mouth, and touching the parts to be united and holding together a

moment.

2.

possible, by putting

3.

Glue, Water-Proof.— Best clear glue, ^ lb.; new milk, 1 pint.

—

Directions Soak the glue in the milk 8 to 10 hours then boil, by setting the

basin in a pan of water, with nails under the bottom of the basin, to prevent

burning. Use as other glue. The casein of the milk aids in resisting damp;

ness.

See 4 and 5 which come from " D. B. M." of Oconomomoc, Wis., to one

of the papers.

4.

—

Glue, to Resist the Action of Water. " A glue which will

water is made by boiling best glue, 1 lb. in skim milk,

resist the action of

2 qts."

5.

Glue, Very Strong for Veneering and Inlaying.

— " Take

the best light brown glue, free from clouds and streaks; dissolve in water to the

consistence of well-made glue, and to each pt. add half gill (2 ozs.) of the best

vinegar, and

1% ozs. of isinglass.'*

—

-O-R-

592

5.

—

CHASE'S EECIPES.

Glues, Liquid.— "H.," of Mt. Clemens, Mich.,

in writing to one

of the papers, says: "Liquid glue can be made by adding to the ordinary solution of glue, for each lb. of glue used, 1 fl. oz. of strong nitric acid."

6.

" Or, take 1 part (oz.) of dry glue, powdered, and 3 parts (ozs.) of

commercial acetic acid, which will dissolve the glue without heat."

Remarks See "Dr. Chase's Magic Mender," among the cements, which i3

made with isinglass dissolved in acetic acid, and is very strong. Glass or porceSee

lain dishes only, can be used with any acid, without dissolving the glues.

also mucilages, cements, etc., for fancy or other work, above.

—

7. Glue, Liquid, Simple, and Easily Made.—An excellent glue

White glue, 2 ozs. good vinegar, 1 gill (4 ozs.) Put into

made as follows

a wide-mouthed bottle, and set the bottle in cold water, letting it come to a boil

is

:

;

gradually, and boiling until the glue is dissolved; then add alcohol, 1 oz.; and

Toledo Post. Good.

after this keep corked, for use.

1.

WIRE-WORMS—Protection Against for Com.—I give you

my experience with the wire-worm. Being troubled with the little pests one

year, I was advised to soak my seed corn in a solution of copperas and saltpeter,

using J^ lb. each to a bushel of ears of common eight-rowed corn. The result

was that my seed all grew, and I lost none by the wire-worms, and I never saw

corn have so dark and vigorous a color before. Since then I have always

soaked my corn 12 hours after being shelled. I do not know as it would affect

the cut-worm, but I have never been troubled with them since I used the soluNeither was I ever troubled with them when I

tion of copperas and saltpeter.

plowed my corn ground [in the fall, which I w uld invariably do on old sod.

Some farmers exterminate them by hunting them out in the hill and killing them

by hand, but this is slow and tedious, and is liable to be slighted by hired help.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure is a proverb true in this case.

J. B.., in

Country Gentleman.

2. Wire-Worms, Protection Against, as Done near London,

Eng., where Soot is Plentiful. An agricultural writer in the London

Land and Water, under the head of "Soot vs. Wire-Worms," says: "I found

the wire-worm so abundant in every part of the garden I was set to cultivate

that I could scarely grow a potato or a carrot without its being rendered useless

by it; and, among the various things I was led to adopt as preventives, soot

—

appeared to be the only effectual remedy. This I applied to potato crops in the

following manner: The drills were got ready in their usual way and the sets

The soot was then put down upon them in

laid in at the bottom of each drill.

quantity sufficient to cause the drills to assume quite a black appearance.