This is harmless, and safe, except by candle light.

them.

If

any doubt of its

Use it freely,

success, touch a bug with the least bit of it you can put on him.

as it is inexpensive, but positive, in its destructive povrers; and does not staia

bed clothing.

Still I

must give some more, which are poisonous.

Though

the next is not poisonous, but more Hkely to Inflame, or explode, than this; but,

no matter what may be used, look over the bedstead in a week or t^^o to meet

any new ones, from nits not touched at first.

2. Naptha alone, or even gasoline, will destroy bed bugs utterly and

quickly.

3.

Put on as No. 1, freely.

Bed Bug Poison. — Beat the whites of 4 fresh eggs well, and then put

in 1 oz. of quicksilver; or in this proportion, for as much as needed, and apply

with a brush, or feather, as most convenient keep it out of the way of chil-

—

dren, as it is very poisonous. Corrosive sublimate pulverized, J^ oz., beat in,

Or it can be used in liquid form, as

in the same way, will do the same thing.

in the next recipe.

4.

Bed Bugs, to Get Rid of.— Spirits of turpentine, 3^ pt.

sive sublimate, }4, oz.

crevice.

corro-

Go over every 2 weeks till all nits are hatched out and killed— 2 or 3

times will do it every time. It is poisonous.

certain to prevent a return than the others.

5.

;

When dissolved apply with brush or feather to every

These poisonous things are more

Another and better plan is to use carbolic acid, 2 drs., to water, J^ pt.,

and apply as the others.

6.

And finally, the grease cooked out of salt pork, or bacon, applied hot,

by keeping over a dish of coals, is said to be everlasting in its effects of killing and keeping them away. The reporter of the plan had been 30 years without their return. I should only fear the everlasting squeak of the bedstead, if

applied in the joints, just where the bugs most do congregate.

7.

Bed Bugs, to Clear from Old Cracked Walls, etc.— Tear

off the old paper and wash the walls with pretty strong boiling hot lye, made

from wood ashes, or the concentrated lye, of which soap is made. Two ozs.

of this would be enough for a pail of water. Put it freely to every crack, and

about the base, at the floor joint, as well as next the plaster; then repaper and

you are safe. If the wall is rough, and danger of nits, wash the whole wall

with the hot lye.

Caterpillars on Fruit Trees, To Destroy.

—If for no other reasoa

than for the looks of an orchard every bunch of caterpillars should be destroyed

as soon as seen but if left alone they multiply and soon extend from tree to tree

so quickly, to the destruction of the orchard, it should be done to eradicate them

entirely from the grounds, as nothing is so unsightly as an orchard or tree

The most positively destructive way of ridding the

infested with these pests.

trees of them is to have a sheet-iron dish made about 6 inches deep and 4 inches

in diameter, witli a tube-like piece, 5 or 6 inches long, standing at an angle of

45° (quarterly pitch) from the perpendicular, at the bottom, into which put the

end of a slender pole, fitted to enter the tube 2 or 3 inches; the tube, say, 1 inch

;

MISCELLANEOUS.

573

main dish, to

and burning the

In diameter, having 2 or 3 small holes near its attachment to the

allow

pole;

the

circulation

of

air

to

prevent

its

heating

and near the bottom of the dish 3 or 4 holes oi

% or % inch

diameter are to be made to allow a draft of air to make the charcoal burn, which is to be put into the dish and set burning; then an extra

person besides the one managing the pole with the chafing-dish upon it, drops in

a few pieces of broken up roll brimstone, when it is to be at once elevated to the

nest; the fumes of the brimstone and the heat soon causes a stampede that is

If you don't believe it, please burn a match under your nose, and

you can soon tell what the result would be, if long continued. To give the

No

caterpillars a chance to drop out, pass the apparatus up through their nest.

living thing can stand the fumes of burning sulphur; but brimstone in small

As

pieces is best for this as it does not burn out so quickly as the fine sulphur.

soon as a nest is seen go for it, and you will soon eradicate them. The plan of

of burning kerosene destroys the limbs too quickly. A day without wind is

best, lest it drive the fumes away, rather than allow them to go directly upward

effectual.

through the nest.

Weeds, To Destroy, in Gravel Walks.— To destroy weeds in

gravel walks sprinkle them with carbolic acid, about the strength of 1 of acid

I have found it successful, but the process must be repeated at

to 40 of water.

least once a year.

Bemarks.

London Journal.

— There

is no doubt of its

success, but 1 lb. of stone lime boiled

to each gallon of water, stirring a few times while boiling, then the clear water

sprinkled on, or poured along the cracks of plank walks, will kill them just as

surely, and not cost one-quarter as much.

1.

CISTERN— How to Build.— I see that a subscriber wishes to

know the best way to build a cistern.

I have had the care of building quite a

number, and would say to him, build two instead of one so large; dig the holes

and put on two good coats of cement on the bank, and arch with good hard

One of my neighbors has one that I built for him 16 years ago, in

brick.

this way, and it has been in use ever since.

I had one built for myself 6

years ago; the masons put brick all round, the brick settled and it leaked. I

had another built 2 years ago, which was 8 feet across in the clear after finished,

and 9 feet deep. This was plastered on the bank and arched with brick, and

has been full of water ever since, and has not leaked a drop that I know of.

I would not

I could mention more made in this way, but this is enough.

have brick or stone in the sides of a cistern if they were put in for nothing;

they are simply thrown away.

Mentor, in Counti'y Gentleman.

Remarks.— It the Portland cement, which is the best water-lime, I think,

In use, is obtained, or the best water-lime which can be got is used, there

can be no doubt of the success in soil that does not cave; but in clay soil,

they claim, nothing but tubs built of plank will keep out the surface water.

This may be so, but it seems to me, even on clay, 2 coats of a mortar made

with the best Portland cement would keep the surface water out as well as

it would keep in what comes in by the spout.

It would save much expense

—

DR. CHASE'S RECIPES.

674

if successful, which I fully believe

it

would be.

Any plasterer would know

the proper amount of clean sand to use with it.

2. Cisterns, How to Build Square or Round— The Difference in Capacity -with the Same Number of Brick. — But few persons are aware that a square cistern holds considerably less than a round one,

the walls containing the same number of brick. But it is a fact, nevertheless.

For instance: about 2,800, or at most, 3,000, brick will make a cistern 10 feet

square and 10 feet deep, having an inside surface of 400 square feet, and will

contain 1,000 square or cubic feet of water, equal to about 7,500 gallons, while

the same number of brick will make a round cistern of about 12^ feet in

diameter and 10 feet deep, which will contain about 1,270 cubic feet, or 9,225

gallons, a gain of about 27 per cent, in capacity, with no more cost, either in

Calculate about 7 brick to lay a 4-inch wall,

brick, mortar, or laying the walls.

for each square foot of wall desired, whether larger or smaller, deeper or less

depth, it matters not. For the size above given, about 2 barrels of cement will

be required, as the bottom ought to be about 2 inches thick. In laying the wall

great care should be taken to ram or pack the dirt down very firmly behind it,

so as to resist the pressure of water. The roof should be arched 2 feet below

the top of the ground.

ICE-HOUSE.—To Build Good but Cheap.— A year or two ago I

had my attention called to an ice-house built by a farmer near me, which was

simply a bin, made of rough boards, 16 feet square, and roofed over, leaving a large opening in the front and sides. He said his ice kept perfectly until

the next winter. He put a layer of sawdust, about a foot thick, on the ground,

and then stacked the ice snugly in the center, 18 or 20 inches from the walls,

and then filled in with sawdust, and up over the top a foot or more thick. Last

winter,

before filling

accordingly tore out

my ice-house, I determined to try this method.

all

I

the inside wall, and shoveled out the sawdust; then

filled by stacking it snugly in the center,

15 or 20 inches from the wall.

This

space I filled in with pine sawdust, and covered the whole over the top a foot

and took down my door and left it all

Now for results. At the present time I have an abundance of ice, and the cakes seem to come out as square

and perfect as when they went in, seemingly nothing lacking except what is

used out. I am satisfied how to build an ice-house. Cor. N. T. Farmers'

Club, in Rural New Yorker.

Remarks I see this writer speaks twice of a "foot or more," i. e., of the

sawdust over the ice. I should "go" for more, say as least 18 or 20 inches, and

it strikes me as more correct also to keep out the sun; but have a window in

each gable to allow the wind to pass through to carry off the moisture arising

from the ice I am honest in the opinion that a simple wall with 18 or 20 inches

Tramp

of sawdust between the wall and ice is better than a double wall.

thick or more,

i left out the window

open, so that the sun could shine in every day.

—

the sawdust down well as filled in.

This is confirmed by J. S. Stephens, of Moore's Hill, Ind., writing to the

Cincinnati Gazette, with a slight difference, in that he built his only 12 feet

MISCELLANEOUS.

575

square, keeping 18 inches of sawdust between the ice and boards, giving him a

block of ice 9x9 feet, and digging six inches into the ground at the bottom,

then putting in sawdust enough to give him 1 foot when settled with the ice

upon it, so he had 6 inches drainage above the ground; he says, too, "the

space above the ice to be open and free for circulation and for the sun to shine

in." I would keep the sun out, except by windows, to let the air go through.

The Gazette added the following comment: "We regard the above as one of

Many ice-houses costing

the best plans for a cheap ice-house ever published.

three times what the above would cost, have proved failures, the ice all melting

by mid-summer.

SHINGLES.— To Make Fire-Proof and More Durable.— The

"Take a potash kettle or large tub, and put into it 1

Scientific American says:

barrel of wood-ashes lye; 5 lbs. white vitriol, 5 lbs. alum, and as much salt as

Make the liquor quite warm, and put as

many shingles into it as can be conveniently wetted at once. Stir them up,

will dissolve in the mixture.

and when well soaked (say 2 hours) take them out and put in more, renewing

the liquor as necessary.

Then l?-' the shingles in the usual manner.

After

they are laid, take the liquor out that is left, put lime enough into it to make

whitewash, and if any coloring is desirable, add ochre, Spanish brown, etc.,

This wash may be

and apply to the roof with a brush or an old broom.

renewed from time to time.

Salt and lye are excellent preservatives of wood.

It is well known that leach tubs, troughs, and other articles used in the manufacture of potash, never rot. They become saturated with the alkali, turn yellowish inside, and remain impervious to the weather.

BemarJcs.

"Where no wood- ashes are to be had, potash, or the concentrated lye for soap-making, 5 lbs. would be equal, or probably half stronger

Of course, putting the shingles loose

than the wood-ashes lye, as above given.

into the mixture, takes up twice as much fluid as to put the butts in up to the

hand, as sometimes done, and does not increase their fire-proof, nor lasting

qualities.

The dryer the shingles the better will they absorb the mixture.

—

CLOTH. —

—

Fire-Proof. For clothing to be starched, put J^ as much

1.

tungstate of soda as you use of starch; starching as usual, and ironing, which

The tungstate of soda is often used as

a mordant in dyeing, which, of course, makes them much less inflammable.

There is so much life lost by dresses taking fire now-a-days it seems that advantage ought to be taken of this plan of fire-proofing them when starched.

does not affect its fire-proof qualities.

2.

For goods not needing to be starched, make a solution of

^

lb.

of the

tungstate to each gal. of water, wet thoroughly, and dry, twice, if to be absolutely sure against blazing.

Soft water always.

—

May be ironed.

Cloths, to Water-Proof. Dissolve sugar of lead, 10 ozs., in a common wooden pail of water; do the same with the same amount of powdered

alum in another pail of water, and then pour together, and thoroughly wet the

cloth therein, and dry, better without wringing.

If weighted and allowed to

soak awhile, all the better.

—

DR. CEASE'S BECIPES.

576

Water Proof Solution, or Paint, for Awnings, etc.—Put 1 oz.

each of rosin and beeswax, to each pint of linseed oil needed.

Apply 1 to 3

coats, as you desire.

Oiled Cloth for Hot Beds; Boxes for Hills, for Early and

Safe Culture from Bugs, etc.— Linseed oil, 4 ozs.; lime water. 2 ozs.;

white of eggs, 1 oz. yolks of eggs, 2 ozs. Directions Mix the oil and lime

water with a very gentle heat; beat the eggs, separately, then mix all together.

Keep these proportions for any amount wanted. Take stout, white, cotton

cloth, of a close texture; stretch and tack it closely upon frames, or boxes, of

any size you wish; then, with a paint brush, spread 2 or 3 coats of the mixture,

—

;

as each coat dries, till the cloth is water proof.

Its Advantages Over Glass.

— It does not cost one-fourth as much; repairs

are easily made; the boxes or frames are light to handle; and there

is

plenty

and the moisture rising from the earth condenses on

the under side of the cloth, and drips back; while glass becomes hot, and

hence calls for more sprinkling, Fruit Record,

Remarks. A box a foot square, placed over the cucumber or squash hills,

and the dirt packed a little at the bottom ensures against bugs, as well as to

hasten their growth. Tomatoes, melons, etc., and garden seeds of any kind

will be hastened by their use; and if packed away carefully when done with

them, they will last several years, by a new coat yearly. This covering is a

light for healthy growth;

—

certain protection aiso against late spring frosts.

Greenhouse, or Hot Beds, Best Shading for the Glass.—Peter

Henderson says the best shading he has ever used for the glass in greenhouses

or hot-beds is naptha, mixed with a little white lead, so as to give it the appearance of thin milk. This can be put on the glass with a syringe, very quickly,

It holds on the entire seaat a cost not exceeding 25 cents per 100 square feet.

son, until loosened by the fall frosts.

There is no better authority than Mr.

Henderson.

Brown

Sugar.— Put but1. CAlSfBIES— Everton Taffy, with

J^ lb., into a suitable dish, with brown sugar, 1 lb. stir over the fire for 15

minutes, or until the mixture becomes brittle when dropped in cold water; add

ter,

;

lemon or vanilla flavoring after the cooking is completed; cool on flat buttered

This is a

tins and mark in squares, before cold, so it can be easily broken.

cheap confection, and it is safe to say that no kind of candy brings in so large

a revenue to the small manufacturers and dealers from the school children of

New York as Eveiton taflfy.

2.

Everton Taffy, with White Sugar.— Put loaf sugar,

1

lb.,

into a brass pan (any sauce-pan will do) with a cup of water; beat 3^ lb. of butter to a cream;

when the sugar is dissolved add the butter, and keep stirring

the mixture over the fire until it sets, when a little is poured on a buttered dish.

Just as it is done add 6 drops of essence of lemon.

mixture, J^ to J^ inch thick, and when cool

dish.

it

Butter a

tin,

pour on the

from the

will easily separate

Mark off in squares, if you wish it to break easily.

If this was not called Everton taffy, after its first maker, I

Remarks.

—

MISCELLANEOUS.

577

should consider it butter scotch, but under its new name, it will taste all the

sweeter.

3.

Molasses Taffy. — Molasses, 2 cups (Porto Rico is best); sugar,

1

cup; butter, size of a Guinea hen's egg; nuts, a cup or two, if you like; soda,

J^ tea-spoonful.

Directions

—Put molasses, sugar and butter together, and

boil to nearly the brittle point';

add the nuts, if used, then the soda and if not

Pour into buttered plates

brittle when dropped into cold water, boil until it is.

to cool.

—

Chocolate Creams and Caramels. These Creams and Caramels

were sent to the New York Examiner, by "Nula" of Clyde, Wayne co., N. Y.,

with the following explanation, also vouching for their reliability. It says:

"Candies made at home are so much purer than those made by confectioners

We have used the

that reliable recipes for making them are really valuable.

following ones long enough to know that they can be depended upon."

Chocolate Creams. Take 2 cups of granulated sugar, and i^ cup of sweet

cream, and boil them together for just 5 minutes from the time they begin to

Remove from the stove, add a tea-spoonful of vanilla, and stir constantly

boil.

Roll into little balls, and lay on

until cool enough to work with the hands.

buttered papers to cool. Put 3^ of a cake of Baker's chocolate in a bowl, and

set the bowl in hot water to melt.

Do not add water. When the chocolate is

melted, roll the balls in the melted chocolate with a fork, and replace them on

—

the buttered papers.

never ate richer or more delicious chocolate creams.

I

When the white mixture has partly cooled, it may be dropped on buttered

papers, and nut meats be put on top, making it a pleasing variety.

Chocolate Caramels.

cream, and

—Molasses 1 cup, 2 cups sugar,

% a cake of Baker's chocolate.

1

cup rich milk or

Boil 20 minutes and turn into but-

Cut into squares when partly cool. Flavor with vanilla as you reThe flavoring for any candy ought not to be put in

until it is a little cool, to save evaporation of the fine aroma or flavor.

tered tins.

move it from the stove.

Cocoanut Candy. —Put into a suitable kettle pulverized white sugar, 4

Stir together,

the beaten whites of 2 eggs, and the milk of 2 cocoanuts.

and place over the fire until you see it is thickening; then, having the meats

nicely grated, put in, and watch and stir carefully, till it hardens quickly when

dropped into cold water; then pour on buttered tins or marble slabs. Spread

lbs.

;

out to thickness desired, and before cold mark off to suit.

Remarks

— If done with judgment and care,

or his wife, in the house where I

it is very

nice.

room at this writing,

A gentleman

Jan., '85,

makes a

batch of this nearly every evening, and sells it the next day to the school children.

They sometimes cook it till it takes rather a yellow or brown shade, as

some of the children like it better than if left entirely white.

Putty (Old), To Remove Easily. — It is quite difficult to remove the

but if you apply a hot solderis broken

slowly over all that you desire to remove it

old putty from the sash when a glass

ing iron to the putty and pass

it

;

softens it quickly so it can be removed nearly as readily as if just put on.

Any

iron that is of such shape as to allow its close contact with the putty will do as

37

I>R-

578

CHASE'S RECIPES.

well as a regular soldering iron, but one of these would be very convenient in

every family especially in the country for purposes of soldering tinware, to

—

—

save taking it to town to get it done, or otherwise stuffing a rag into the hole.

Soft soap will do the same, but takes much longer.

Flavoring Extracts, Lemon and Orange, Home-Made- — Whenever either of these fruits ai'e being used cut the rinds rather finely and put into

fruit jars or large-mouthed bottles and cover with alcohol fill and press in from

;

time to time until full, keeping covered with the alcohol. After a couple of

weeks the flavor will be nearly or quite equal to the extracts kept on sale, especially so, if the bottle or jar is pressed full of the rinds and the crevices only

filled with the alcohol.

Use the same as the extract.

—

Elevator from Cellar to Pantry. Elevators from kitchen to diningroom are very common, but not any more important than one from cellar

It can be made with 3 or 4 shelves, using plank for end pieces, and

to pantry.

will be better if made with a back of wire cloth, with doors in front, having the

same covering in the place of panels, the same as safes for victuals; then the

woman can place her victuals therein and lower to the cellar without going

down at all, and raise when wanted for the next meal. If a wife is worth saving, have one put in at once, and she will bless you, as well as the day you had

Make as light as possible to be stout enough for the purpose. Any

it done.

good mechanic can do it.

1.

VINE G-AB,— from. Sugar. — Good brown sugar, J^ lb.; soft warm

water, 1 gal.

Keep same proportions for any amount you desire to make.

Yeast, good brewer's,

Directions

% pt. or hop, liome-mMe, 1 pt. strained for each 10 gals.

— Dissolve the sugar in a pail by pouring hot water upon

it and

put into the keg and shake thoroughly to dissolve it; then add

the balance of water for the amount to be made, and add the yeast when the

water is only warm. To scald yeast kills it. The kegs or bbls. should never

be more than

or

filled, as vinegar to make quickly must have a large surface to allow warm air to come in contact with the fluid. Put mosquito netting

or coarse cheese cloth over the bung to keep out the flies and let the air in. If

shaken daily it makes quicker in from 2 to 4 weeks, according to the heat of

the sun or the warmth of the room in which it is placed.

A pt. to 1 qt. of

shelled corn will do very well in place of yeast, as it has a great fermenting

power; but after 3 weeks at most, if corn is used, the vinegar must be drawn

off to get rid of the corn.

If you have 1 gal. of good vinegar to put into eacb

5 being made, no yeast or corn need be used.

stirring, or else

%

%

—

—

2.

Vinegar, from Molasses. Good molasses, 1 qt. to each gal.

warm, soft water. Make every way tlie same as No. 1.

3.

of

Vinegar, from Sugar or Molasses, Hop Yeast and Corn.—

Mrs. R. J. Simpson of Hedgeman, Kan., in answer to an inquiry in the Blade,

"how to make vinegar," says: "To 10 gal. of water take 10 lbs. of sugar, 1

gal. of

hop yeast .sponge, set and let get light as for bread, boil 1 gal. of corn

when cool pour in an open keg or jar all together, and in 3 or 3

till tender,

MISCELLANEOUS.

579

weeks you will have the best of vinegar. Shaking or moving around does not

injure it at all; it never dies; keep covered."

Remarks Here you see an open keg or jar is called for, knowing that air

must come in contact with a large surface of the fluid to make quickly; but a

full, or a little more, gives a larger surface to the air, of

keg or bbl. only

course, laying on its side, and the bung only covered with open cloth or mosquito netting, keeps out the flies and dirt and allows the daily shaking, which

also hastens its oxygenation, souring, by giving a new surface to the air at each

shaking.

It is also more cleanly, because less likely to have anything get into

it.

But remember where sponge yeast and corn are used, when the fluid has

worked clear, in about 3 weeks, it should be poui jd off, the dregs and corn

strained out, or otherwise got rid of, and the fluid returned and shaken daily

Another lady signing herself "M. A. M."

till the vinegar is as sharp as desired.

—Mama, I suppose it means gives the following plan of making:

—

%

—

Corn Vinegar. — "Cut off of the cob 1 pt. of corn, then take 1 pt. of

brown sugar or molasses to 1 gal. of rain water; add the corn, put into a jar,

cover with a cloth, set in the sun, and in 3 weeks you will have good vinegar.

Have cider vinegar, but like the

I have made it 5 years, and know it is good.

corn vinegar best."

Cider Vinegar. — Pure cider vinegar is acknowledged to be the best that

To make it quickly, a writer gives us the following plan. He

can be made.

says:

"Expose a large surface of the cider to the action of the atmosphere; it

will turn rapidly to vinegar; for instance, if the cider is put into buckets or tubs

in the sun, and a mosquito netting is laid over the top of it so that the flies will

not touch it, and shield it also from rain by boards, in 3 or 4 weeks you will

have strong vinegar. The larger the surface exposed to the air, the sooner the

fermentation will take place and vinegar be formed.

Place a bucket of cider

behind a cooking stove constantly in use, and you will soon have vinegar.

Warmth and air are all that are needful."

Remarks

—This would be impracticable except in small quantities, and in

warm snmmer weather.

If this writer

had said warmth, air and time are all

make vinegar out of cider, he would have covered the

whole ground, for 'tis rather a slow process. Not much use to try to do anything more with cider the season it is made only, only to leave the bungs out of

that are needful to

the bbl. to allow its first fermentation to proceed, or it is best to leave the bung

out all the time, if the cider is to be made into vinegar.

to make

it

And those who desire

in quantities for sale, will do best, no doubt, to follow the French

plan below described by the Maine Farmer, as follows:

" Old cider or vinegar barrels, if sound, are preferred to new ones, but if

new they are washed with scalding water; boiling vinegar is next poured in and

tlie bung closed and the barrel allowed to stand until its sides become thoroughly saturated with the vinegar. This requires from 1 to 3 days, according

to the material of which the barrel is

made. After this preparation it is filled

about one-third with strong and pure cider vinegar and 2 gallons of cider.

Every eighth day thereafter, 2 gallons of cider are added \intil the barrel la

—

DR. CHASE'S RECIPES.

580

two-thirds full.

In 14 days after the last two gallons are added the whole will

have turned into vinegar; one-half of which is drawn off and the process of

filling with cider begun again.

In summer the oxygenation will go on in

the sun, but in cool weather the liquid is kept where the heat can be maintained at about 80 degrees.

By this process it takes a little more than two

months to produce vinegar."

—

Remarks. You will understand this 16 gals, is produced in each bbl., so if

a man is working 100 bbls. he makes 1,600 gals., or about 50 bbls. of 32 gals,

each (which is a legal bbl.), every two months of the summer season; and if he

is going to carry it on for a business, as a man does in this city (Toledo, O.),

and has a suitable building, he can work 500 bbls. as well as 100. In summer,

free air is admitted by lowering and raising windows, and if he chooses, can

make considerable in the colder months by keeping his room warm with

stoves or furnace, if the

demand justifies it.

This gentleman tells

me that

some old, pure cider vinegar, to mix with the newer cider, is far preferable to

yeast or any other ferment, which will be found to be a great aid, as mentioned

in the close of the directions of No. 1

and if a larger amount than there

named is used, even 1 to 3, or the bbl. filled one-third full, as in the French

;

plan above, it will make all the quicker.

Quite an important point for those

who may wish to manufacture vinegar of pure cider, in the cities or for city

more large casks in the building, holding 1,000 gals.

to, has two such), into which it is all

placed, before sold, as it insures a greater uniformity of taste, from the large

amounts always kept in these large tanks or casks. Mr. Hine's 1,000 gal. casks,

in cheap times, cost him only $50 each, but he thinks they pay in giving this

uniformity of taste; as without them the taste depends upon the kind and quality of the apples from which the cider is made.

A 3-story building is none toa

high, as, after tlie first working of the cider is over in the lower story or basement, it is pumped to the third, and after 6 months or so it is run into barrels

In the next story below by means of rubber tube siphons, and then again inta

Vhe large casks, when properly worked or having become vinegar fit for sale

(t is the true way of making pure cider vinegar in large quantities.

trade, is to have one or

(Mr. Hine, of this city, before referred

Vinegar Prom Tomatoes.— It is claimed that ripe tomatoes furnish a

juice, or cider, if you wish to call it such, that makes an excellent vinegar with-

out the addition of sugar; but my own idea would be, that from J^ to 3^ lb. of

sugar would be required to each gal. to make excellent vinegar.

With this

addition, no doubt, it will make good vinegar, for with 3'or 4 lbs. to each gal.

it will

make a good wine, if a slight taste of the tomato, which it retains, is not

objectionable.

Vinegar Prom Alcohol, or Proof Spirit, Strength Bequired.—

It is recently claimed that to make vinegar with alcohol,

is the cheapest

to use

or proof spirit, which

It is necessary

—either should contain 80 per cent, of alcohol.

from 17 to 25 per cent, of it, i. e., 17 gals, of proof spirit with water to

make 100 gals, makes good vinegar— this is about 1 to 6, while 25 per cent., or

1 to 4, makes extra strong. This can be made in the sun, or a warm place, by

MISCELLANEOUS.

587

"Working with yeast, as other vinegars are made, or by putting it through what

is cal]ed the German process of filtering it through beech shavings, described

But the plan of using any of the mineral acids in

making vinegar is deleterious to health, and ought not to be done.

in the U. S Dispensatory.

VINEGAR, SPICED—For Table Use, Mixed Pickles, etc.—

People of late years have got into the habit of spicing vinegar highly for table

use, as well as for various kinds of mixed pickles, and even for the common or

cucumber pickles, and as it gives an extra relish, if nicely done, I will give one

of the best; then one with plain celery, and one of currie flavor, which can be

For a highly spiced

prepared and bottled or jugged, always ready for use.

vinegar make as follows; but, if in any case the onions, garlics, or any of the

spices are not desired from not liking their peculiarities, leave them out; or you

may add half as much more of any spice you prefer to be most prominent in

the vinegar:

For each gallon of good cider vinegar, slice small garlics, 6; and small

onions, 1 doz. ; horse radish, 2 good sized roots, also sliced; bruised ginger root,

4 ozs.

;

black pepper and allspice, unground, each 2 ozs.

;

cloves, 20;

cayenne

peppers, 1 doz., or 3 or 4 medium sized red peppers; and mustard seed, 4 ozs.

and if a yellow shade or color is desired, put in tumeric root, bruised, 1 oz.

but as this is only to color, I prefer it without. Directions Put all into a

stone jar, place on the back of the stove, cover, and let steep, or keep hot 6 to

10 hours; then strain and bottle for use; or set away in the jar, closely covered,

as you prefer.

Suitable for cauliflower, cabbage, cucumbers, or any mixed

pickle; or to use on the table, in place of common, plain vinegar, for which I

like it very much.

—

Celery Vinegar.

—Put 3

ozs. of celery seed into a quart bottle, and fiU

with good cider vinegar, or white wine vinegar.

After a few days it is nice to

The

more seed used, up to 4 ozs. makes the stronger flavor. Diluted alcohol, or

brandy, will suit some persons better than the vinegar. Let them use either,

flavor soups, or gravies, or to use in place of celery salt, upon meats, etc.

,

as they like best.

—

Currie Vinegar. Put currie powder (which see), 3 ozs. to each quart of

good cider vinegar, and steep as spiced vinegar, above, then bottle, and add, as

you like, of it to meat gravies, or sour pickles, etc.

PICKLES—Very Pine for Present Use and Keeping Over.

—Elma, of Hancock, N. Y. in the Blade, gives the following plans, and as I

,

know they are good, I adopt them:

—

I.

For Present Use. I will give them in her own words; she says: "I

want to give the best recipe for pickles I ever used. I found it 2 years ago in

an old book, and I do wish you could all have one of the pickles, now about a

year old

Pick the cucumbers, being careful to leave on the stems. Small

cucumbers make the nicest pickles. [I always prefer a medium sized pickle.]

Wash them, sprinkle on enough salt to nearly cover, then pour boiling water

«ver them. Let them stand till cold, or over night. Drain off the salt and

DR. CEASE'S RECIPES.

582

Repeat this whenever the cucumbers are picked, or until you have made pickles enough."

water, and put them into cold, spiced vinegar

To Keep Over Winter.

II.

— "Now for those wanted to keep

all winter;

take them out of the first vinegar, and cover them with some more, in which

put spices to suit the taste. Be sure to have it scalding hot, and put a piece of

alum in; also, a dozen slices of horse radish.

A piece of alum the size of a

If you try this recipe, I don't

you will make them any other way. I do hope this will be published

before it is time to pickle. Every one that has ever eaten any of mine say,

'How do you make them? I never ate such pickles before.' "

Remarks. The putting on salt, and the water boiling hot, causes the cucum

large hickory nut for every 3 gallons of pickles.

believe

—

bers to shrink, i. e., they part with their own superabundance of water, so they

do not reduce the strength of the vinegar; not only this, but it also extracts a

gummy, or resinous juice, making them more palatable, and more healthful.

Still if it is seen at any time the vinegar is not as strong as it should be, re

scald, or throw away if very weak and flat, and put on new spiced vinegar, or

good plain vinegar, as you choose. The alum sets, or helps to retain, the

green color; and in the amount she uses, it will be no objection. Of course

pickles, or cucumbers for making them, can be put up with salt, covering fairly,

each well placed layer, with salt, as filled in, and weighted to keep them close,

and thus they part with water enough to cover them, without any being added;

then freshened, and treated as fresh, when desired to prepare them. No danger of getting on too much salt, if soaked about 3 days, changing the water

daily,

when put into vinegar.

French Pickles, Delicious. —