Poetical, to Boys, but Equally Applicable to

1.

Young Men. —The following item, from the poetic writer, Eben E. Rexford, covers so much good in such a small compass, I

my young readers.

am glad to lay it before

It is true in every point, and should be adopted as the rule

of life, by not only every boy, but every young man coming upon the stage of

The two next items I do not know who their author's are,

action, for himself.

still,

first.

as they teach us all a lesson of fact, they very appropriately follow tho

Rexford says:

My boy, you're soon to be a man;

Get ready for a man's work now;

And learn to do the best you can,

"When sweat is brought to arm and brow.

Don't be afraid, my boy, to work;

You've got to, if you mean to winl

He is a coward who will shirk;

" Roll up your sleeves, and then 'go in I'"

Don't wait for chances; look about!

There's always something you can do.

He who will manfully strike out,

Finds labor; plenty of it, too!

But he who folds his hands and waits

For "something to turn up," will find

The toiler passes Fortune's gates,

While he, alas, is left behind

I

Be honest as the day is long;

Don't grind the poor man for his cent.

In helping others, you grow strong,

And kind deeds done are only lent;

And this remember: if you're wise,

To your own business be confined.

He is a fool, and fails, who tries

His fellow-men's affairs to mind.

Don't be discouraged and get the blues

If things don't go to suit you quite;

Perhaps it rests vrith you

To set the wrong that worries, right.

Work on\

Be a man!

Don't lean on others

Stand on a footing of your ownl

!

Be independent, if you can,

And cultivate a sound backbone!

Be brave and steadfast, kind and true.

With faith in God and fellow-man,

And win from them a faith in you.

By doing just the best you can!

2.

It Never Pays to Fret and Growl.— This writer has concen-

trated the whole plan of life's work into a nut-shell, as follows;

DR. CHASE'S BECIPES.

558

It never pays to fret and growl

fortune seems our foe;

When

The better bred will push ahead.

And strike the braver blow.

For luck is work,

And those who shirk

'•

Should not lament their doom,

But yield the play,

And clear the way,

That better men have room.

—

Remarks. It is only those who are determined to shirk, that need clear the

way, for those who are alike determined to labor, as the first writer says, can

find plenty of it, hence there is no need for any such to be left behind.

It has

been more recently taught that luck is simply pluck, and as experience shows

this to be a fact, and also that pluck means for every one to be at work, this

writer is correct.

And now, with a temperance pledge, written for little boys,

being equally applicable to men, I will close these subjects, with the very best

wishes that all shall succeed, as I know they will, if they adhere to the principlfiR here taught, so plainly that even a little child cannot misunderstand them.

3.

A Temperance Pledge.

A pledge I make, no wine to take;

Nor brandy red, that turns the head;

Nor whisky hot, that makes the sot;

Nor fiery rum, that ruins the home.

Nor will I sin, by drinking gin;

Hard cider, too, will never do;

Nor lager beer, my heart to cheer;

Nor sparkling ale, my face to pale.

To quench my thirst I'll always bring.

Cold water from the well or spring;

So here I pledge perpetual hate,

To all that can intoxicate.

Remarks.

—

It is certain that these writers had the welfare of the rising gen-

eration deeply at heart, as well as the ability to clothe their thoughts with words

calculated to make a lasting impression

upon the minds of those for whose

sake they were writing; and I should have been glad to have found their names

connected with tlieir articles; but as I did not, I can only ask that they be committed to memory by the youth of every household, and that they form tlie

governing principles of their

lives,

so shall peace

and prosperity be doubly

assured.

Now the foregoing advice, or, more properly, suggestions, to young men

and boys, would seem to be incomplete, without a word to young women;

hence we will give them an item, written for the Blade, by W. S. Frazier, under

the head of " Beware," I shall head it as follows:

MISCELLANEOUS.

559

YOUNG LADIES—" BEWARE."

Beware, young lady, beware!

A serpent lies coiled in the lees of that cup,

"Which your handsome "young man" has so gaily caught up

He may laugh at your fears.

But if you would shun the disgrace and the tears

Of the helpless, despairing, disconsolate wife

Of a drunkard who has driven all hope from your life;

When the years have flown by and the fiend has control

Of that handsome young man, mind, body and soul

Beware!

And drained to the dregs.

Beware, young lady, beware!

This life has enough of pain, trouble and care

For those who act wisely. Then turn from the snare

Of the deadly drink demon; that promise, fair-spoken.

Of reform after marriage, is sure to be broken.

Oh, heed thou the counsels of wisdom and truth.

That thy age be not cursed with the choice of thy youth.

There are many young men, brave, noble and strong.

Then choose not from Satan's Bacchanalian throng

Beware!

Bemarks.

—All the counsel above given as to young men's success,

if

they

heed or are governed by the " advice " given, is as applicable here to young

women as to them; and I need only add that I have known several young

women in my lifetime who, if they had heeded the advice of their friends and

not married young men already addicted to drink, would have saved themselves

from a life of suffering and wretchedness. Those who begin early in life to

drink seldom reform; and, if they try to do so, more "seldom" hold out but

It does seem as though they might, but they do not look

a very short time

high enough for support. Christ has said: " My grace shall be sufficient for

thee." It must be to all who trust it fully, for He never spoke only what He

knew to be facts.

A

Mortgage, Its Staying and Destructive Properties.—In the

whole range of sacred and profane literature, perhaps there is nothing recorded

which has such staying properties as a mortgage. A mortgage can be depended

upon to stick closer than a brother. It has a mission to perform, which never

lets up.

Day after day it is right there, nor does the slightest tendency to slumber impair its vigor in the night.

Night and day, on the Sabbath and at holiday times, without a moment's time for rest or recreation, the biting offspring

of its existence interest goes on.

The season may change, days run into

weeks, weeks into months, to be swallowed up in the gray man of advancing

years, but the mortgage stands up in sleepless vigilance, with tlie interest a

perennial stream, ceaselessly running on. Like a huge nightmare eating out

tlie sleep of some restless slumberer, the unpaid mortgage rears up its gaunt

front in perpetual torment to the miserable wight who is held in its pitiless

<j]utch.

It holds the poor victim in the relentless grasp of a giant; not one hour

of recreation; not a moment's evasion of its hideous presence. A genial savage

—

—

—

DR. CHASE'S RECIPES.

560

of mollifying aspect while the interest is paid; the very devil of destruction

when the payments fail. [Beware of them. Authok.]

1.

Feather Beds, Old, to Renovate Without Steam. — Old

feather beds may be renovated or cleaned very satisfactorily by putting them

out during a heavy shower, turning, to give both sides a good soaki^^g. [And

the author can't see, if it does not rain when and as hard or as long as it is

desired for this purpose, why a woman can't get up a good " heavy shower " of

her own by means of plenty of warm water and the ordinary house or garden

sprinkler; she certainly could, and I think be better than the natural cold

shower.] Dry thoroughly in the sun, beating with a stick to loosen up the

feathers, as you do a carpet to get out the dust.

The bed may lay upon the

ground to receive the water, but should be placed upon slats or sticks across

chairs, or something of this character, while drying.

Remarks. On boards or poles, one end on the fence sloping towards the

If there are stains on the tick they can be cleaned at

sun, is the better way.

the same time in the following manner:

—

2.

Feather Bed Tick, To Remove the Stains.—Pulverize some

starch and stir it into sufficient soft soap to make quite a thick paste, enough to

cover the spots caused by children's wetting it. When dry, brush off and wash

with clean water by means of a wash-cloth or sponge. Dry again in the sun,

and whip to lighten up the feathers.

Corn Crib, Rat Proof.—A correspondent of

the Practical

Farmer

gives the following directions for making that most necessary of farm build-

ings

— a rat proof com crib.

He says: "Build a good substantial house, 13

feet wide, 8 feet high and as long as you want it.

This will give you 2 cribs, 1

on either side. Put your building on stone pillars, 1 foot, or more, above

ground (mind, the pillars must not be wider than the sill, else the rats will stand

on them). Side up with lath 23^x1 inches of hard wood I used oak putting

them on up and down, being careful to have them just i^ inch apart. The

gables and any part of the building that does not come in contact with the corn

can be sided up with common pine boards for bottoms of cribs, laths length-

—

—

;

wise,

% ''^^^ apart balance of floor between cribs lay tight, of pine boards.

;

My building has a string of ties between the sill and plate to nail to and cross

Every 8 feet of these ties spike a good strong

from the

plate as you want the width of top of crib, then set up studding from floor, as

many as will be sufficiently strong for crib mortice the end in floor, gain the

ties to hold the building together.

scantling, or plank across them lengthwise of the building as far in

;

top into the horizontal scantling about

^ of an inch, then lath the inside of the

crib with any kind of lath (I would keep up the hard wood), just close enough

to keep in the corn, commencing 10 inches from the floor, to leave room for the

corn to come down into the trough, putting these lath on lengthwise. Then

put a common sized door in the end, between the cribs. You can put a lock

on the door, and all is secure— I did not lock mine and gained something by it,

as I found a stray mitten in the crib on a cold morning.

To get the corn in the

crib make doors above the plate the size you want them, the same as dormer

MISCELLANEOUS.

561

windows, and hang the doors on and it will be completed. If any one wishes

to have a granary, they can use one side of the building for that purpose and

The size of my cribs is 3 feet in the clear at the bottom

the other for a crib.

and 5 feet at the top, but I am well satisfied they miglit be much wider and still

I have used this crib for about 10 years, and I can

the corn would cure well.

recommend it as an entire success. The secret of this crib is putting the lath

on up and down; this gives no place for the rats to stand on to cut holes, and

We are

the building being 1 foot above ground they cannot reach the bottom.

infested with swarms of gray rats, and there is not a building on the farm from

which we can keep them out except the corn crib. "We keep corn over a year

until the new crop is gathered in perfect safety."

—

Remarks. The 10 inches at the bottom, up to where the lath begins, may

have a board of that width, or better still, 3 laths nailed on end cleats, to slip

down behind cleats nailed on the studs. By taking one of these np, you have

a nice opening to pass the scoop shovel under for corn, when desired. Having worked at carpentering and joining work for 20 years, before I began to

read medicine, I know this will prove every way satisfactory, if done by a good

common sense man.

Bushel Boxes, How to Make. —In gathering potatoes, apples and

other things, quite a saving in time and trouble can be brought about by mak-

ing enough bushel boxes to fill the wagon-bed.

is 36 inches,

If the inside of the wagon-box

the length of the boxes should be 11% inches (which gives 1 inch

play to get them in and out).

An ordinary wagon-box will hold 32 to 36 of

them. With these boxes one has no use for baskets, and the trouble of shoveling out the load is saved. In handling apples and potatoes they are much less

bruised and marred than when no boxes are used. Where one has a supply of

these boxes, a large number of them, after being filled with apples, etc., can be

piled up and emptied at leisure.

In this case the time on stormy days can be

devoted to assorting the products. They are also quite convenient, being square,

for shipping on the cars. The ends are made of common pine boards, 13

inches wide, planed on both sides, sawed to the exact -nidth of 12 inches, and

then cut into lengths of 14 inches.

In these, holes are cut for the hands, as

To make,

The sides and bottoms are

cleats would take up too much space and they would not pack well.

take an inch bit, bore 3 holes and trim with knife.

made of lath, cut just 11% inches in length. Six pieces are required for the

bottom and 5 for each side. One lath will make 2 lengths for sides or bottom.

For 100 boxes 800 lath and 200 feet of common lumber will be required.

Two 4-penny nails in each end of the lath is suSicient to make a permanent box.

Get them ready in the rainy days of summer for fall use, and you will never be

sorry.

—

Dio Lewis' "Breakfast for Two Cents" Good for Light

Laborers. Notwithstanding a large amount of sport was made over Dr.

—

Lewis' publication upon the "Two-cent Breakfast," still for persons of a

sedentary life and only light labor to perform, or perhaps no labor at all, his

plan is most excellent for those who desire to enjoy good health and long lives.

86

DR. CEASE'S RECIPES.

562

Let this class of persons try it, aud they will soon realize a feeling of enjoy'

ment and hilarity of spirit never before experienced. He says, " My experience and observation has been that meat is a large item in the cost of living.

By using less meat and more oatmeal, beans, peas, etc. the same amount of

nourishment may be obtained. Get a good r:rticle of Scotch or Canada oatmeal,

and to 1 qt. of boiling water slowly stir in 1 tea-cupful of oatmeal, lo which

add a little salt; let it cook slowly for half an hour, when it may be served

with milk or cream and sugar. Three cents worth of oatmeal, 3 cents worth

of milk, and 6 cents worth of sugar will make a good meal for a family of 6

persons.

Some of the most healthy people I have ever seen had oatmeal morning and night, and had fresh meat with vegetables at noon. By this method of

living we make the morning and evening meal so inexpensive that the cost of

our food will be reduced at least one-half. Beans and peas are cheap and

,

nutritious."

Remarks.

—If I could say anything more to induce people to pay a

gi'eater

attention to what the great hygienic doctor has"said upon this subject I would

most cheerfully do so, but I will only add that it is of the most vital importance

to all who do not work at hard manual labor for a living; they must have the

meat, if they can get it; but even with them the supper may, or ought, to be

only a light meal, if continuous health and long life are any object.

Pea Vine Hay, To Cure. —Those who raise peas to any extent will be

surprised to see how stock will relish the vines in winter, if properly cured, and

the best way to do it is to build a pen 3 rails high; then floor it over with rails

and build up 3 or 4 rails more, according to how green the vines are, and fill in

the vines; floor again, build up and fill in until 10 or 12 feet high; then cover

to shed the rain perfectly.

Like bean straw, they will not bear deep pack-

they are too valuable a feed for stock to be thrown away. And

when oats are sown with them, as they generally should be, the oat straw gives

ing, but

still

an additional relish and object to save them.

—

Hogs, Fall Care of, for Early Slaughter. ^Although considerable

has been said in that department as to the care of hogs, as well as the treatment

of hog cholera, etc., yet as I find an item upon this subject among my miscellaneous matter I have thought best to give it here, hoping it may receive greater

attention standing alone. It is best, when possible, to let swine have the range

of a newly cleared field, where logs and brush have just been burned off, as

they instinctively eat the coals that are left, which, it is well known, does them

great good but when tliis can not be done the next best thing is to place a mix;

ture of salt, ashes (unleached), and charcoal (pulverized), and, the author thinks,

aulphur, also, equal quantities, except the sulphur, perhaps, only one-half as

much as of either of the others, under shelter, but where they can have daily

and also to begin to feed early with peas, pumpkins, potatoes, etc.,

the potatoes and pumpkins properly cooked and thickened with pea meal, if

access to it;

plenty, else with shorts, or a little cornmeal when no cheaper article

is at

hand

to be worked off; so that by November 15th, or 20th, at farthest, they may be

leady for slaughter.

The charcoal is of vital importance to hogs, unless the

MISCELLANEOUS.

•Stove coal, as

563

mentioned in the other connection, proves to fill its place; and

there is no '"""nger of their eating too much ashes or salt. Running water ought

always, if possible, to pass through their pasture; and when not possible fresh

water should be pumped daily for their use, as well as for all other stock, even

to the chickens.

1.

CODLING MOTH, Remedy.—Dr. Hull, a leading horticulturist of

Illinois, says that his lime remedy for the codling moth has

effectual.

proved completely

The freshly slacked lime is thrown into the trees when the dew is on,

A

or just after a rain, and after the fruit is set.

dipper or a large spoon may be

used; but best of all, is a bellows made for the purpose (the author would say,

"with a long nose or nozzle to reach weU up into the trees).

The insects will not

go where the lime is scattered; he says, " they go away."

Remarks. The author has not a doubt but what the lime will prove effec-

—

tive, for the item given in his first recipe book, for

destroying the curculio on

plum trees, wherein sulphur and gunpowder with the lime was effectual but it

seems that lime alone does equally well, and is much less expensive. " CodUng

means an immature or small applo, but so far as the moth is concerned, it is

;

applied to plums or any other fruit. But the curculio, a species of weevil, is

most destructive to the plum, as you will see by referring to them.

2.

Codling Moth Effectually Disposed of. —A writer who signs

himself "H," of Fenton, Mich., sends a plan to the Detroit Tribune, which he

says effectually disposes of the codling moth. He says: " I take a piece of old

woolen cloth, 5 or 6 inches wide, and long enough to go aroimd the apple tree

and lap an inch or two, and place this around the tree midway between the

lower branches and the ground, and fasten it there with a tack driven in just

The moth will go under this cloth and deposit her egg,

which matures in 12 days. Every 10 days I go through the orchard, draw the

tacks carefully, unwind the cloth and mash every worm and moth I find, sometimes as many as 40 under a single cloth. This followed up will utterly

destroy them."

Remarks. It is said that the most successful fruit growers, east and west,

have decided that there is no better remedy for the codling moth than to pasture

hogs in the orchard to eat the wormy apples and the moths or wonns therein.

Chickens running in the orchard are also very destructive to moths, by eating

all the worms or bugs they see and I have seen it stated that 3 or 3 pigs put

into a pen of one length of boards around apple, peach, or plum trees will

destroy all these depredators. (See Borers, Remedy for, Curculio on Plums,

Description of and how get rid of them, next below.)

far enough to hold.

—

;

Borers in Peach and Apple Trees, Remedy for, and for Bark

Lice on the Trees. Mr. M. B. Batchman, of Ohio (residence not given),

—

writing to the Fruit Recorder, of Palmyra, N. Y., gives the following valuable

remedy to prevent the borers getting into the peach and apple trees. He says:

" Take a tight barrel and put in 4 or 5 gallons of soft-soap with as much hot

water to thin it, then stir in 1 pt. of crude carbolic acid and let stand over night,

or longer, to combine. Then add 12 gallons of rain-water, and stir well; apply

DR CEASE'S RECIPES.

564

to the base of the tree with a short broom or old paint brush, taking pains to

This will prevent both peach and apple borers. It

should be applied the latter part of June in this climate, when the moths and

The odor is so pungent and lasting that no eggs will be

beetles usually appear.

deposited where it has been applied, and the effect will continue tiU after the

If the crude acid cannot be obtained,

insects have done flying.

of the pure

wet inside of all crevices.

%

will answer, but it is more expensive. "

[Crude carbolic acid is a black and dirty

looking fluid, and if not kept by small druggists they can obtain it in the cities;^

but, mind you, it is a strong acid, and it will destroy the skin or clothing if you

get it on them by breaking the bottle or otherwise, so be carefuL

The crude is

what is used in washes for lice about poultry, horses, etc.]

Rsmarks.

—To the [above, the editor of the Recorder added: " We believe

the above remedy for borers would also exterminate grubs from strawberry,

—only that for strawberries dilute

raspberry and blackberry roots

the

amount of water."

it with

double

To this I may add: I think 6 or 8 qts. of fine soot

dissolved in a barrel of water and thoroughly sprinkled about the roots of these

berry plants will kill the borers or grubs that trouble them, and probably 2 lbs.

of potash in the same water would also destroy them, sprinkled on in the same

way.

—

Forcing Plants. For forcing plants that you wish to hurry forward for

any reason, 6 or 8 qts. of fine soot dissolved in a hogshead of water and sprinkled upon them and about the roots freely, is said, by the American Gardener,

to do as well for plants as for bulbs, flowering plants, shrubs, etc.

Bark Lice, or Scale Bugs on Trees, Shrubs, Plants, etc.—Positive Remedies. Prof. J. H. Comstock says that in fighting scale insecta

(scale bugs, bark lice) on trees and shrubs that poisonous fumes nor powdered

substances have done any good, and that " they cannot be destroyed otherwise

than by actual contact. Lye and solutions of soap have been eminently suclb., to water, 1 gal. (dissolve by heat);

cessful.

Common or whale oil soap,

—

%

or lye (concentrated, in lb. cans),

1 lb. to 1 gal. of water,

applied when the

—

growing fall or very early spring), has been found towork equally well. Apply with a stiff brush, which reaches the scale under

the bark and sweeps off others, but cannot be used on the small branches, and

on these "Whitman's fountain pump syringe may be employed for spraying."

Remarks. Charles Downing, through the Rural New Yorker, says he uses.

"1 lb. of the lye to 6 qts. of water, just as the buds begin to swell in the

This is undoubtedly strong enough to kill every one it touches.

spring.

trees are dormant (not

—

For Lice on Plants.— Prof. A. J. Cook, in the New York Tribune^

says that one application of the following mixture is a complete cure for lice on

The soap and water

and all well stirred. The

It is also used on trees, killing the lice an^

plants: Soft-soap, 1 qt. ; water, 1 gal., and kerosene, 1 pt.

are heated to the boiling point, the kerosene added

mixture is thus made permanent.

restoring the vigor of the trees.

Curculios on Plum Trees— Description of and How to Destroy

Them.— Mr. A. R. Markham, of Mayville, wrote to Prof. A. J. Cook, of the

MISCELLANEOUS.

565

Agricultural College, Lansing, asking as follows: "Will you kindly describe,

through the columns of the Post and Tribune, or otherwise, the plum curculio

so that an amateur grower can find him? There are many among our farmers

who don't know the pest. I have hunted with great care but have not yet

found a sufficient description for me or my friends to identify him. Please

make the description sharp and decisive so we can find the terror.

To this Prof. Cook made the following answer through the Post and

Tribune: " The plum curculio, which has now for more than a week been making its destructive punctures and characteristic crescents in our plums, and

-which will continue its ruinous work for a month to come, is a little weevil

that is a beetle, with a prolonged snout or proboscis not more than j^ihs of an

inch long. It is dark in color, marked with indistinct gray and buff. When

at rest its snout or trunk is bent under the body. To surely find it at this season place a white sheet or table spread under a plum tree which is bearing

—

plums, and then give the trunk of the tree or the branches, if the tree is large,

The curculios will fall to the sheet. If early in the morning or

a sharp blow.

remain in their humped up condition, by which

they feign death, and in which they resemble small dried buds so closely that

they must be carefully inspected to remove the deception. If in the hot sunshine, in the middle of the day, they will soon crawl, or often at once take

wing. In this way any one will be able to identify the pests. Very soon their

appearance is learned, and one has no trouble to see them at once, when they

may be grasped between the thumb and finger and crushed. I have four plum

It takes vae about 10 minutes each day to catch and destroy the cuicutrees.

lios, and by this slight trouble we shall have a fine quantity of beautiful fruit.

If we should neglect to fight the " little Turk" we would get not a plum."

Remarks. On May 25th Prof. Cook had given, in answer to a Mrs. O. L.

Morgan, of Hillsdale, Mich., a more full direction as to the sheet, which should

cover all the space under the tree, or such part of the tree as was being jarred;

and also of the mallet, etc., which should have a handle at least 6 or 8 feet

long, and the ends of the mallet to be well padded with cloth, so as not to bark

the tree, nor the large limbs, which must be hit quite hard to fetch them down.

But I think a strip of board, 2 or 3 inches wide, 6 to 10 feet long, one end

padded, will do as well, and white sheets enough laid down to cover the ground

under the tree; and the curculios are then, of course, to be mashed, or delate in the afternoon they will

—

stroyed, as you like, and all green and other worms, which also eat into apples,

pears, cherries, plums, etc., which, when they shake

stroyed.

down should also be de-

The shaking, or jarring down should be done just at dusk of the

evening, and at early dawn, as long as they are found.

It is said that

com cobs

saturated with kerosene, and liung by strings to the branches, keeps the curculios away from

the trees.

This lady also made the following inquiry in relar

tion to

1.

CURRANT WORMS.—" Is London purple as good a remedy for

currant worms as white hellebore, and in what proportion is it to be used in

small quantities? "

To which Prof. Cook gave this answer:

" I should prefer white hellebore

DR. CEASE'S RECIPES.

566

to London purple in fighting the currant worms, as it is just as effectual anA

not so poisonous. If it is thought best to use London purple, and it is safe

with the requisite precautions, use 1 oz. of the purple to 5 or 6 gals, of water."

Knowing the ability of this gentleman to answer all such questions correctly,

I have given them most cheerfully. (For the strength of the hellebore water

for this purpose, see how to use it, below.)

—A

2. Currant Worms, to Avoid.

writer of experience in the Fruit

Recorder says: "There is no necessity of breeding currant worms; which is.

done by leaving bushes untrimmed, the worms always attacking the new growth

first."

He continues: "My plan is this: In starting a currant patch I confine

the bush not to exceed from 1 to 3 main stems, and give all the strength of

the root to their support.

As hinted above, sprouts will start from the roots

each spring, but they must be rubbed off when small. All currant-growers are

aware that worms first make their appearance on a new growth and then spread

over the bush. Consequently, no sprouts, no worms. This is just as plain asthat 2 and 2 make 4.

I have followed this plan for the past 2 years to my satisfaction, and have barely seen the effects of worms on 1 or 2 bushes where

my plan was not fully carried out. But such currants I never saw grow, the

common red Dutch being nearly twice as large as the cherry currant and a better bearer.

I had a few bushes that actually broke down from their load of

fruit."

Remarks.

—The plan of making a kind of

tree of the currant gives so much,

better chance of cultivating around them, I have often

wondered it was not

adopted generally; and if any one will adopt this plan, he will see how much

easier it will be to adopt the use of soot, as the Scotch do, to eradicate the

worm, and at the same time to fertilize as given in the next item.

;

Ciirrant Worms to Destroy, and to Fertilize the Ground.

Instead of the powdered hellebore, as heretofore used, copperas water, at the

rate of 1 lb. to water, 6 gals., not only destroys the worm, by pulling over the

top of the bush to sprinkle it upon the under side of the leaves, but also fertilizes the soil.

But possibly the Scotch method of dusting fine soot upon them

after a shower, or when the dew is on, and also working small quantities of it

3.

—

into' the soil

around the bushes, is the best way after all, as it is claimed this

latter plan in a year or two will eradicate them from the garden altogether.

—A

city,

horticulturist near this4. Lime, Another Certain Remedy.

Toledo, O., says in the Post recently: "The only remedy for the currant

worm known to us, is to begin early in the season to scatter air-slacked lime oa

the leaves.

This work must be frequently and thoroughly done, always after

sun-down.

Throw the lime from below upwards, or pull the bushes over, in

order to let it catch on the under side of the leaves, and also from above.

This

will save the currants if done thoroughly and often."

—

Remarks. I know the lime will prevent the conotrachelus nenwphar (a biff

name for the p lum weevil), or curculio, from stinging, and thus destroying

plums, if thrown on freely, while in blossom, and for a few days thereafter;

then why may it not also destroy or prevent the currant worm from putting in.

MISCELLANEOUS.

his work up»n currants?

I have not a doubt of

it.

567

The same writer says also

that cultivators of small fruits recommend Fay's Prolific currant as a healthy

and vigorous grower, productive and easily picked from the bush, and as a rule

making fruit-buds under cover of every leaf. Then it must be a good one to

raise.

I think the best plan of applying the lime, or any powder, upon currant bushes, more especially upon fruit trees, would be to have a bellows like

painters use to put sand upon their painted work, putting the powder in the

hopper, the wind carries it out freely. The nose must be quite long for fruit

trees.

5.

Currant Worms, New Way of Destroying.—The Kalamazoo

(Mich.) Telegraph gives a plan of destroying the currant worm, or caterpillar, as

some call them, discovered accidentally by a piece of woolen rag having been

blown into a currant bush by the win'd, which was found to be covered with

these leaf -destroying pests. Pieces of woolen cloth were then placed in every

bush, and the next day the worms had almost wholly taken to them for shelter.

In this way every morning they were taken out and destroyed, and the rag

replaced for a new crop, until completely used up.

If this fails to reach all, use

the lime dust, or some of the solutions with the syringe or atomizer.

See " Cur-

rants and Gooseberries, Setting Out, etc.

6.

Currant Worms and Rose Slug, How to Destroy with

— I. For the Currant Worm. —There are many persons who from

Hellebore.

the certainty of hellebore to destroy them, claim it the best remedy yet known.

If to be used, the American Agriculturist tells us how to do it.

that if used in this manner it is perfectly safe.

It claims, also,

As to the way of using it it says

" Place a table-spoonful of the powdered hellebore in a bowl; pour upon it a

hot water; stir so as to wet every particle, then add more water,

stir well and pour into a pail then rinse the bowl and pour the washings into

the pail, which is then to be filled with cold water.

Thus prepared, the mix-

little boiling

;

Two, or at most three, applications will

worms, and it would be difficult to find a safer or more effective

remedy. Success with this, as with all similar things, depends upon applying

Those who will take the pains, and where there are but few

the remedy early.

bushes it is advisable to do so, can avoid much of the necessity of poisoning by

destroying the eggs of the caterpillar. These are laid upon the underside of the

lower leaves of the bushes, and the leaves themselves may be plucked and

ture is to be syringed over the bushes.

finish the

burned, or the eggs crushed between the thumb and finger."

—

Remarks. This would be about at the rate of 1 lb. of the hellebore to

25 gals, of water; and if this much is needed, and it is put into a barrel containing this much water a day or two before it is to be applied, first pouring boiling

water upon it in a pail, etc., as if the bowl was used, then stirring it 2 or 3 times

daily, it will be ready for use;

but cover up carefully, that nothing

may drink

of it and be thus also destroyed.

II.

For the Rose Slug.— The same strength of the solution of the hellebore

will also destroy the rose slug, generally, by a single application, if thoroughly

done; but if one application fails apply again more thoroughly.

—

—

DR. CHASE'S RECIPES,

568